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Indochino Advanced Options

Papa Doble

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I plan to order the Indochino Light Gray Three Piece Suit as discussed here and have some questions on the customization and advanced options. I have read this and this. Please let me know if you know of any other guides.

Jacket
Jacket and vest lining: I like the idea of getting something unique like pink, but will I regret it? Regardless, should the jacket lining always match the vest lining?
Pick Stitching: I know this is typically preferable in a custom suit, but have heard mixed reviews on Indochino's pick stitching.
Slanted Pockets: I think my preference is to be conservative and not have slanted pockets.
No Pocket Flaps: Do most suits accomodate tucking flaps into the pocket anyway? All of mine do.
Natural Shoulders: I'm really not sure at all about this one.
Higher Arm Holes: The consensus seems to be to always choose higher arm holes. If it eases movement, then why wouldn't it be a default?
Functional Sleeve Buttonholes: I really want functional sleeve buttons. How big a risk is it for a first suit from Indochino? And, if I choose them, should I also choose unhemmed jacket sleeves, or does that not matter since the placement of the buttons will already have been made?

Vest
I don't get what they mean when they say Normal vs. Normal with Collar vs. Rounded. I do know that I don't want vest lapels.

Pants
I know your belt should not show when wearing a vest, but should you wear a belt at all? If not, should I get no belt loops and choose side tabs? I don't want to wear suspenders.

Thank you for your help.
 

CommenceFailure

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I can only speak to some of these things.

Technically you should keep your jacket and vest always buttoned and nobody will ever notice a pink lining.

If you have sloping shoulders, padding will help. If your shoulders are fairly straight and broad, or you like the look, go for no padding.

I would really really recommend not getting functioning buttons. My tuxedo I ordered from them needed at least an inch taken off from the sleeves.

I'd call and ask them about the vest options.

You should either wear a belt (breaking a rule), wear suspenders and no belt loops (suck it up, nobody will notice under your vest), or do just do side tabs and be ready for a visit to the tailor if they're too far off.

Hoped I helped slightly.
 

Papa Doble

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Originally Posted by CommenceFailure
I would really really recommend not getting functioning buttons. My tuxedo I ordered from them needed at least an inch taken off from the sleeves.

I think this is advice I know I should take but don't want to hear.

Originally Posted by CommenceFailure
You should either wear a belt (breaking a rule), wear suspenders and no belt loops (suck it up, nobody will notice under your vest), or do just do side tabs and be ready for a visit to the tailor if they're too far off.

I think I might go with no belt and side tabs. In the event that I take my jacket off while dancing (this is for groomsmen attire), I'd rather not be wearing suspenders.

Thanks for your input.
 

CommenceFailure

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Side tabs would probably be totally fine, especially if you are a fairly fit guy. A gut would make them want to fall down.

Are you taking the vest off too? You wouldn't see them under the vest.
 

Papa Doble

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Originally Posted by CommenceFailure
Are you taking the vest off too? You wouldn't see them under the vest.

I see what you mean. The suspenders would be completely hidden under the vest, which I would not take off.
 

Icehawk

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Originally Posted by Papa Doble
I see what you mean. The suspenders would be completely hidden under the vest, which I would not take off.

I have some trousers from them with side tabs - they have suspender buttons as well, pretty sure by default (I asked on the first pair but not the second).

I don't believe they allow working cuffs on the first jacket if I recall their verbiage, makes sense since once they are cut it makes altering the sleeve length more difficult.
 

CousinDonuts

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Pick Stitching: I know this is typically preferable in a custom suit, but have heard mixed reviews on Indochino's pick stitching...I too have heard that their pick stitching is over the top. I personally have avoided this option with IC.

Slanted Pockets: I think my preference is to be conservative and not have slanted pockets...kind of an english look. Most people won't even notice.

No Pocket Flaps: Do most suits accomodate tucking flaps into the pocket anyway? All of mine do...get flaps; no flaps are more prevalent on tuxedos and "clubby" jackets.

Natural Shoulders: I'm really not sure at all about this one...as someone posted above, if you have very straight shoulders then you may want to consider the natural option. I have 2 IC suits, one with natural and one with regular, the regular padding is fairly minimal.

Higher Arm Holes: The consensus seems to be to always choose higher arm holes. If it eases movement, then why wouldn't it be a default?...historians can correct me, but I think American sack suits and the Jos Banks of the world have lower holes. I'm guessing IC thought their biggest market would be Americans so perhaps they thought this would be the more 'standard' option. Just a thought. I personally like the look of the higher arm holes because it also helps create the V taper down your torso.

Functional Sleeve Buttonholes...If you select this option I suggest you are very very very dialed in with your sleeve measurement. Measure yourself, compare to other jackets where you like the length, and then measure again. If you request unhemmed then you may not like where they put the buttons.

If not, should I get no belt loops and choose side tabs? ...I got the side tabs on an IC tux. I thought they were a bit bulky.
 

Papa Doble

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Originally Posted by Icehawk
I don't believe they allow working cuffs on the first jacket if I recall their verbiage, makes sense since once they are cut it makes altering the sleeve length more difficult.

From their FAQ: "The functional sleeve buttons feature is only for repeat customer as it may be difficult for your local tailor to adjust the sleeve length if the buttons are already fixed. For first time suit buyers, we can only grant functional sleeve buttons for standard measurement profiles."

Originally Posted by CousinDonuts
Functional Sleeve Buttonholes...If you select this option I suggest you are very very very dialed in with your sleeve measurement. Measure yourself, compare to other jackets where you like the length, and then measure again. If you request unhemmed then you may not like where they put the buttons.

I will say that I am a very detailed person with things like this and will likely measure 3+ times to be sure.
 

Beatlegeuse

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Regarding the natural shoulders, this means that Indochino will use zero padding, none whatsoever. I originally thought natural shoulders meant minimal padding, I wasn't expecting no padding at all. So, only select natural shoulders if you really want no padding at all.
 

Icehawk

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Originally Posted by Papa Doble
From their FAQ: "The functional sleeve buttons feature is only for repeat customer as it may be difficult for your local tailor to adjust the sleeve length if the buttons are already fixed. For first time suit buyers, we can only grant functional sleeve buttons for standard measurement profiles."

Right I've read their entire site, but what does that mean? Are you a "standard measurement profile"? They are pretty good about answering emails so I'm sure you can discuss this with them.


I have the side adjusters and they are a little clunky/cheap but good enough for what I paid and need them for. I don't think I'd worry about it unless they were loose pants (ie, not part of a suit).
 

Papa Doble

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Originally Posted by Beatlegeuse
Regarding the natural shoulders, this means that Indochino will use zero padding, none whatsoever. I originally thought natural shoulders meant minimal padding, I wasn't expecting no padding at all. So, only select natural shoulders if you really want no padding at all.

Thanks, that's good to know, and it resonates with others' comments.

Originally Posted by Icehawk
Right I've read their entire site, but what does that mean? Are you a "standard measurement profile"? They are pretty good about answering emails so I'm sure you can discuss this with them.

Yeah, I think I'll definitely send them an email with my questions, with functional buttons being a very important item to sort out.

Originally Posted by Icehawk
I have the side adjusters and they are a little clunky/cheap but good enough for what I paid and need them for. I don't think I'd worry about it unless they were loose pants (ie, not part of a suit).

So do the side adjusters/tabs have a few buttons you choose from or is it some sort of O-ring? I've never seen or bought pants without belt loops, obviously.
 

wizard7926

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Originally Posted by Papa Doble
I will say that I am a very detailed person with things like this and will likely measure 3+ times to be sure.

I am a detail-oriented person as well, but I still wouldn't trust them to put it in the exact right location the very first time as they may alter your measurements slightly. I don't know if there's a place to tell them to follow your measurements exactly, but I'd have to say I wouldn't recommend it myself.

I measured myself what I perceived to be perfectly (and multiple times) and my shoulders were 1" too wide, which threw off the sleeves and had to be completely redone. My new arrival is MUCH better, but still needs slight adjustments.

I chose side tabs and I'm happy with them. There's a decent amount of room for "error," so to speak, and still keeps the same slim profile. Example:

pants1.jpg


As for your vest, I believe Normal is no-lapel, Normal with Collar has lapels, and rounded creates a slight round where the sides of the vest meet at the first button, as such:

1283470973.1259830505.additional.22_large.jpg..large.jpg
 

Icehawk

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Originally Posted by Papa Doble
So do the side adjusters/tabs have a few buttons you choose from or is it some sort of O-ring? I've never seen or bought pants without belt loops, obviously.

Wizard's photo shows it - it's more like a ratcheting system, what's weird to me is the strap is made of rubber or plastic and not fabric. Feels cheap tbh but not something anyone would see. They aren't like the typical side adjusters you might see on cargo or military type pants with a fabric strap and buckles to pull in the sides - these adjusters actually open or close the sides of the pants, it's kinda weird to me as it coincides with the pocket. I don't know if I was fortunate but my pants came out a perfect fit and the adjusters give me a good amount of leeway either direction.
 

luftvier

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Not to **** on your thread, but I have a few questions for you.

  • Do you already have suits?
  • If so, what suits do you have?
  • What is your reasoning for ordering custom rather than off the rack with alterations?
IC suits run the gamut from meh to awful. IMO, you're better off getting some basic staples to begin with before you go buck wild with customization. Take this from a guy who did everything in reverse and regrets it.

Save your money for now. Go to a local decent shop if you can (e.g. Brooks Brothers) and have them fit you. You can get a decent suit from them, on sale, for only a bit more than what Indochino will charge you.

You'll be happier in a few years when you can still wear that suit.
 

Papa Doble

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Originally Posted by luftvier
Not to **** on your thread, but I have a few questions for you.

  • Do you already have suits?
  • If so, what suits do you have?
  • What is your reasoning for ordering custom rather than off the rack with alterations?
IC suits run the gamut from meh to awful. IMO, you're better off getting some basic staples to begin with before you go buck wild with customization. Take this from a guy who did everything in reverse and regrets it.

Save your money for now. Go to a local decent shop if you can (e.g. Brooks Brothers) and have them fit you. You can get a decent suit from them, on sale, for only a bit more than what Indochino will charge you.

You'll be happier in a few years when you can still wear that suit.


I discuss the suits I own here. The reason I'm considering Indochino is that (1) the only off the rack three piece light grey suits I can find in the $300 to $400 range are T.M. Lewin (preferable to Paul Fredrick) and Paul Fredrick, and (2) I have a $100 off coupon at Indochino, making their suit $319.

I'm not sure what you mean by save my money at Brooks Brothers. Show me a Brooks Brothers three piece light grey suit in my price range and I'll buy it.
 

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