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Ambrosi Napoli - Page 126

post #1876 of 1889
Quote:
Originally Posted by emptym View Post

PB, you might try the Levis 522. Fok tipped me off to jeans w/ a wide upper and slightly tapered legs. The Levis are a pretty cheep version and so very comfortable. They have a high rise, something like 12.5" front, 17" back, on size 33". I got the gray pair w/ 1% lycra. Wore them on 24 hr trip to Asia and have never been more comfy. Tempted to buy them in other colors, like the dark blue one w/ 30% wool, 70 cotton, but I've recently gotten a hemp pair from Luxire and ordered a couple from Lawless, all based on those 522s.
I think I've only ever specified single forward pleat or flat front, hem width, and belt loops or side adjusters.

Yeah, I just think jean in this manner look weird, almost like costume period pieces. I also can't imagine wearing a high waist without also wearing suspenders, which is something really too costumey for jeans, imo. I just brave the low rise tapered leg. The only pair of jeans I own are the Levi 1978 501's in black.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pocketsquareguy View Post

PB, your shirt sleeves are looking rather long....

Quote:
Originally Posted by emptym View Post

Or the cuff looks loose.

It was actually a brand new shirt when the pic was taken so it hadn't shrunk up yet. Also, I have since gotten smaller suspenders so the clasps aren't so high up.
post #1877 of 1889
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

But then I'd stand out even more than when I do actually wear jeans.

Not if you hang out with the kind of people who wear pleated jeans.
post #1878 of 1889
I don't hang out with the kind of people that generally wear pleated anything. Maybe skirts.

I do live in Williamsburg, so I guess I could technically get away with old timey pleated jeans...
post #1879 of 1889
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Not if you hang out with the kind of people who wear pleated jeans.
I.e., the right kind of people.
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

I don't hang out with the kind of people that generally wear pleated anything. Maybe skirts.

I do live in Williamsburg, so I guess I could technically get away with old timey pleated jeans...
I think had a pair of pleated jeans around 86-90. I know I had pleated denim shorts back then. Pretty sure they were single pleat. Probably reverse. Those were my gigolo days of jr. high.

Seriously though, try the 522s. They don't look weird. I think they're the perfect CM cut. Don't tell Fok though. Actually, they're cut about like Ambrosi pants now that I think about it.
post #1880 of 1889
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post

Personal opinion here but forward/regular pleats work and look best when you are willing to wear a higher rise and have a smaller hip/seat circumference. Higher rise than a plain front and a bit higher than reverse pleats. 

Reverse look cleaner IMO and are more flattering if you have a bit of belly or wider hips. Regular pleats are generally paired with on seam side pockets which are my least favorite.

Hard to beat reverse pleats and a well made single pipe besom front pocket for the way they fit and look. The besom pocket pretty much disappears and won't bow away from the body. It lays very flat and stays closed.

Pleated trousers are like double breasted jackets. If not cut, fitted  and proportioned well, they look like crap.

I agree and prefer reverse pleats myself to forward, even though I shouldn't.
post #1881 of 1889
I'm confused as to what is a reverse to forward. I always called mine abound forward, is this wrong?
post #1882 of 1889
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

I'm confused as to what is a reverse to forward. I always called mine abound forward, is this wrong?

Forward folds towards the centerline (fly).
post #1883 of 1889
That's the way I thiught. I like how those look better and it puts the extra cloth towards your junk where it's needed.
post #1884 of 1889
Those look great, pB. Ercole?
post #1885 of 1889
Yes, sir.
post #1886 of 1889

Hi Guys,

 

I'm interested in visiting Ambrosi while i'm in Naples. I have gone through this entire thread and there are some horror stories indeed with some people waiting 18-24months before receiving their trousers. 

 

Has this issue of big delays in delivery been resolved? 

post #1887 of 1889
Quote:
Originally Posted by aussieboy View Post
 

Hi Guys,

 

I'm interested in visiting Ambrosi while i'm in Naples. I have gone through this entire thread and there are some horror stories indeed with some people waiting 18-24months before receiving their trousers. 

 

Has this issue of big delays in delivery been resolved? 

 

 

I can't speak for everyone, and there may well be very satisfied customers out there.

 

I can say, though, that I know of a couple of people who have visited Signor Ambrosi in Naples and commissioned trousers and they were told that they'd be ready in a week or two. Months later, they were still waiting.

 

It seems that, in general, if you commission a pair of trousers from Ambrosi as part of a trunk show, then he'll produce the trousers as promised, probably because he doesn't want to jeopardise his commercial relationship with the place hosting the trunk show. However, if you are an individual from overseas who gives him an individual commission, then it looks as that orders may well be given lower priority. 

 

If you're happy taking the risk that you'll have to wait for months for your trousers, then go for it! Otherwise, consider going to a trunk show or getting another maker to make you a pair of trousers. 

 

Edited to add: Here's an example of someone (coincidentally, a fellow Australian) who visited Signor Ambrosi in Naples and was promised his completed trousers within a few weeks of his visit last October. He was still waiting for the pants in mid-April (ie last week) and Ambrosi had promised on several occasions that they'd be there soon (look at the comments at the bottom of the page for the full story): 

 

http://timelessman.com.au/bespoke/ambrosi-napoli-bespoke-trousers-part-2-first-fitting-sign-language/

post #1888 of 1889
Quote:
Originally Posted by Journeyman View Post
 

 

 

I can't speak for everyone, and there may well be very satisfied customers out there.

 

I can say, though, that I know of a couple of people who have visited Signor Ambrosi in Naples and commissioned trousers and they were told that they'd be ready in a week or two. Months later, they were still waiting.

 

It seems that, in general, if you commission a pair of trousers from Ambrosi as part of a trunk show, then he'll produce the trousers as promised, probably because he doesn't want to jeopardise his commercial relationship with the place hosting the trunk show. However, if you are an individual from overseas who gives him an individual commission, then it looks as that orders may well be given lower priority. 

 

If you're happy taking the risk that you'll have to wait for months for your trousers, then go for it! Otherwise, consider going to a trunk show or getting another maker to make you a pair of trousers. 

 

This is the thing that would annoy me considerably. i.e., being told one thing and then not delivering as promised. I wouldn't mind as much if i was told from the outset that the delivery would be arriving in 4 months time, but to be told 1-2 weeks and then leave your customers waiting several months is unacceptable. 

 

I wonder if i could ask him to have them delivered to me while I'm there? After all, if it's only going to take 1-2 weeks to make then it should be no problem me returning after that time to take delivery.

 

I don't suppose he has trunk shows in Australia?

post #1889 of 1889
Quote:
Originally Posted by aussieboy View Post
 

 

This is the thing that would annoy me considerably. i.e., being told one thing and then not delivering as promised. I wouldn't mind as much if i was told from the outset that the delivery would be arriving in 4 months time, but to be told 1-2 weeks and then leave your customers waiting several months is unacceptable. 

 

I wonder if i could ask him to have them delivered to me while I'm there? After all, if it's only going to take 1-2 weeks to make then it should be no problem me returning after that time to take delivery.

 

I don't suppose he has trunk shows in Australia?

 

No trunks shows in Oz, as far as I'm aware. He visits HK and North America regularly, thanks to The Armoury and one or two other places, but I'm not sure where else he goes, but Ambrosi hasn't been to Australia yet. 

 

I don't know how much he charges if you see him directly, but if I remember correctly, Ambrosi's trousers cost over $1000 (and that's US$) if ordered via a trunk show. That's just a little bit more than I'm willing to pay for a pair of pants at present, especially if I have to wait months for them and repeatedly be told that I'll have them "soon". 

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