or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Ambrosi Napoli
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Ambrosi Napoli - Page 124

post #1846 of 1857
Quote:
Originally Posted by marcodalondra View Post

Thanks dieworkwear.

No need to repeat myself, but the argument is that he still charges 1/3 in Naples himself...

In any case, all my bespoke trousers have that shaping, "la forma S" they called it in the Mola/Cerrato family. For me, what I like most in my pants is the way the hug my hips/shaped around the back: I am wearing suit/classic trousers but I feel as comfortable as I would be wearing lounge pants/trousers.

IMO the benefit is in working directly with the trousermaker some time, or at least having him present at the first fitting (that is what happened with Volpe and Cerrato); but as I said, when ordering trousers through your tailor he will likely mark the fitting he wants to achieve (taking into account client preferences) and thus trousers made by the same trousermaker for two different tailor will look most likely quite different

How do you maintain that shaping over time? I'm assuming that it'll be lost due to repeated wear?
post #1847 of 1857
Quote:
Originally Posted by Odd I/O View Post

How do you maintain that shaping over time? I'm assuming that it'll be lost due to repeated wear?

Chris said a lot of the shaping is lost when you sit down, as your legs pull on the back of the thighs and at the knees. Which means if your co-worker is standing at his desk all day, he's either an annoying health freak or an Ambrosi customer.
post #1848 of 1857
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Chris said a lot of the shaping is lost when you sit down, as your legs pull on the back of the thighs and at the knees. Which means if your co-worker is standing at his desk all day, he's either an annoying health freak or an Ambrosi customer.

Sounds like it's temporary. For the price of the pants that kind of sucks. Perhaps a HÅG Capisco chair in stand mount position would help prolong it? Chair can be seen here.
post #1849 of 1857

If shaped pants lose their shape over time, would that not suggest that straight pants acquire shape over time? ;-)

post #1850 of 1857
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Ay329 View Post

I have read Solito (who once travelled with him to make jackets) pulled some similar shit on folks in NY. But that eventually, folks got their jackets. Its a shame that birds of the feather flock together. Perhaps Salvatore learned from Solito that this Neopolitan way of doing business with overseas buyers had little adverse consequences.

I didn't derserve this treatment, nor did many guys who trusted this dishonest man with our cloth, our money, our hopes and dreams....and our fucking precious time.

My one highlight, Salvatore was the first person to defriend me on FB. How sad icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif

Let the buyer beware. Caveat Emptor

I'm one of the initial New Yorkers who dealt with both Salvatore and Solito. Eventually I received my pants.

I have still not received my jacket four years later. I've received one email after a two year hiatus that his mother was ill and apologizing for the delay. That was it.
post #1851 of 1857
Just curious, what forum?
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

I have a picture somewhere of the curve Foo is talking about, but I can't find it at the moment.

I'm not a tailor, but my guess is that they help you achieve a slim leg but also a nice drape. My NSM and Steed trousers are both cut fairly straight up and down, but my Steeds drape better. I've often wondered if this is because they're a little fuller in the upper thigh, but I don't know. NSM has a slimmer leg that I prefer, but the back doesn't drape as clean as Steed's.

Most people stand with their hips slightly forward and their knees locked, so your natural position is often a bit more like an S-curve rather than a straight up and down I. I read on a tailoring forum once that this has become more true as people are more sedentary. Supposedly, people who do more physical work aren't as likely to stand like this, but I don't know if that's actually so.
post #1852 of 1857
Quote:
Originally Posted by Odd I/O View Post

How do you maintain that shaping over time? I'm assuming that it'll be lost due to repeated wear?
Mine have a much softer shaping as are a bit fuller to accommodate my sporty legs. The shape is still there, after few years of wearing.

I have checked also my cotton Chinos and Corduroy, and although the "S" curvature has further softened up, it is still there (not straight), although I am using an ECO dry cleaner using a wet dry cleaning system that has caused the fabric to visibly shrink.
post #1853 of 1857
Quote:
Originally Posted by lukejackson View Post

Just curious, what forum?

Found the post

http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1119&p=8440

That was more about back balance, so I might be way off in attributing this stance stuff to the curve people are talking about here. It was just a wild guess on my part.
post #1854 of 1857
Quote:
Originally Posted by comrade View Post

I was in Naples in September and it never entered my mind to get
pants from Ambrosi given his record of a few years back. In fact,
I visited no tailors but contented myself with sighseeing and eating
fabulous food.

That's what I plan to do next week as well.
post #1855 of 1857
Quote:
Originally Posted by juuceman View Post

I'm one of the initial New Yorkers who dealt with both Salvatore and Solito. Eventually I received my pants.

I have still not received my jacket four years later. I've received one email after a two year hiatus that his mother was ill and apologizing for the delay. That was it.

Does anyone have Solito's contact information. Phone and email? If so, would you kindly PM me? Thank you.
post #1856 of 1857
Quote:
Originally Posted by bry2000 View Post


Does anyone have Solito's contact information. Phone and email? If so, would you kindly PM me? Thank you.


http://www.sartoriasolito.it/contatti.html

post #1857 of 1857
Quote:
Originally Posted by 9thsymph View Post

If shaped pants lose their shape over time, would that not suggest that straight pants acquire shape over time? ;-)

They do; just not the shape you want.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Ambrosi Napoli