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Ambrosi Napoli - Page 114

post #1696 of 1785
David and Jeffrey; can either of you comment on the quality of these trousers (specifically if you can tell if they have hand work)?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NWT-TomFord-100-Cotton-White-color-Slacks-Size-M-/161206389375?pt=US_CSA_MC_Pants&hash=item2588a64a7f

Some Tom Ford products are made in the Zegna Couture factory; was wondering if that applied to trousers as well.
post #1697 of 1785
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post

Why do you always make these snide comments about me Cantabrigian?

Unless we have a client who has had trousers made by both me and Ambrosi we cannot really discuss differences in fit. We can with the aid of the photos talk about hand work which is something that I was interested in comparing and talking about.

Im also a bit more advanced than saying "fit is paramount" to be honest. Of course it is, but it does not mean that you have to compromise on things like cloth and construction, it should all be good if you are a luxury maker and I don't think there is anything wrong with discussing any of these aspects singularly.


It's easy to tease you because you're quite SRS and because I'm about 12.

I'm also not sure there's anything more advanced than believing that fit is paramount. In part, because even well regarded houses don't necessarily get it right. But let's assume that whoever we're talking about nails the fit.

I've come to hate the word "luxury" because it usually means, in practice, at least conspicious and often tacky. "Luxury" details are contrasing buttonholes and glowing linings and superfluous bartacks and whatnot. The details become the focus. I make that observation in general.

Since you've asked us to discuss your offering, (and I preface this by saying that I'm nobody and that my opinion doesn't matter to anyone else), from what I've seen of your stuff, the fit is decent and the level of quality is high but the level of taste is rather low. I don't know if it's you or your clients who like super duper roping and 70s style suits and all of that but the not-so-little embellishments seem to overwhelm a perfectly respectable base.

Perhaps you churn out nice, subtle, unpretentiously well-crafted suits by the dozen and you just don't post them here. But from what I've seen, there is a genuine difference in philosophy.

Asking for a comparison of the incidental details of Ambrosi's trousers vs yours, seems to be part and parcel of the "luxury" philosophy.
Edited by Cantabrigian - 1/24/14 at 1:27pm
post #1698 of 1785
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantabrigian View Post

It's easy to tease you because you're quite SRS and because I'm about 12.

I'm also not sure there's anything more advanced than believing that fit is paramount. In part, because even well regarded houses don't necessarily get it right. But let's assume that whoever we're talking about nails the fit.

I've come to hate the word "luxury" because it usually means, in practice, at least conspicious and often tacky. "Luxury" details are contrasing buttonholes and glowing linings and superfluous bartacks and whatnot. The details become the focus. I make that observation in general.

Since you've asked us to discuss your offering, (and I preface this by saying that I'm nobody and that my opinion doesn't matter to anyone else), from what I've seen of your stuff, the fit is decent and the level of quality is high but the level of taste is rather low. I don't know if it's you or your clients who like super duper roping and 70s style suits and all of that but the not-so-little embellishments seem to overwhelm a perfectly respectable base.

Perhaps you churn out nice, subtle, unpretentiously well-crafted suits by the dozen and you just don't post them here. But from what I've seen, there is a genuine difference in philosophy.

Asking for a comparison of the incidental details of Ambrosi's trousers vs yours, seems to be part and parcel of the "luxury" philosophy.

Nice trolling.
post #1699 of 1785
He's the only guy who engaged your quest for comparison...
post #1700 of 1785
Quote:
Originally Posted by archetypal_yuppie View Post

He's the only guy who engaged your quest for comparison...

An internet post doth not constitute a "quest".

post #1701 of 1785
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post

Nice trolling.

My last post wasn't remotely trolling. I offered my opinion and the reasons (such as they are) why I hold that opinion.

Posting the chainz video when you were talking about your gold plated, monogrammed locker loops was kinda trolling. But it was fairly innocuous as far as trolling goes.

To make this discussion suck slightly less. Let's do this. I'll take a few photos of a pair of Ambrosi trousers and I'll try to point out why I like the fit. You can do the same with a pair you've made.

That may (hopefully, possibly) spark a discussion on how trousers should fit.
post #1702 of 1785
To be clear, I'm not recommending the current Ambrosi who either may not deliver (on time) or who costs a firstborn through the Armoury.

I can, however, recommend 2009 Ambrosi who made a very good pair of pants at a very good price and in a normal travelling tailor timeframe.
post #1703 of 1785
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantabrigian View Post


I can, however, recommend 2009 Ambrosi who made a very good pair of pants at a very good price and in a normal travelling tailor timeframe.

If only we had a time machine, so that we could buy a pair of trousers on time and at half the price!
post #1704 of 1785
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantabrigian View Post

My last post wasn't remotely trolling. I offered my opinion and the reasons (such as they are) why I hold that opinion.

Posting the chainz video when you were talking about your gold plated, monogrammed locker loops was kinda trolling. But it was fairly innocuous as far as trolling goes.

To make this discussion suck slightly less. Let's do this. I'll take a few photos of a pair of Ambrosi trousers and I'll try to point out why I like the fit. You can do the same with a pair you've made.

That may (hopefully, possibly) spark a discussion on how trousers should fit.

Why are you so offended and fixated by an internal coat chain sold by Richard James Weldon? Its weird, like 5 posts about it. I mean of all the things. Its quite an innocuous piece of hardware used on lots of Savile Row suits for the past 100+ years. If you want a pair of pants without the chain just say erm Dave no need for the chain please, the clues in the name, "Bespoke".

http://www.richardjamesweldon.com/

Anyway as to your suggestion about fit pics, sorry, too busy to get into a protracted internet battle with an idiot. You will have the last word here because I wont post in this thread again.
post #1705 of 1785
Quote:
Originally Posted by Journeyman View Post

If only we had a time machine, so that we could buy a pair of trousers on time and at half the price!

There's a distinct possibility that Titsworth has worked it out.
post #1706 of 1785
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantabrigian View Post

There's a distinct possibility that Titsworth has worked it out.

The problem is in computing the effect a flow of money from future to past will have on the overall economy.
post #1707 of 1785
That sounds like someone else's problem.

Tell Salvatore I said hi. Or will have said hi. Or whatever.
post #1708 of 1785
"We're all just ordinary people" (john legend voice)

This thread could've been legendary.
post #1709 of 1785
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantabrigian View Post

I first heard about Ambrosi on the London Lounge and the selling point was always fit (and way back then value) rather than handwork.

My impression when the menswear fora discovered Ambrosi was that everyone was impressed that he had achieved the trinity of fit, style (silhouette, whatever you want to call it), and handwork like no one had before. He also seemed very fast and could hit the fit with 1 fitting. He was a bit expensive even then, as there were discussions how much pants were actually worth. I forget if that was approximately when the 2-inch cuff thing started taking off too due to all of the Ambrosi fit pics being posted.
post #1710 of 1785
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post

Why are you so offended and fixated by an internal coat chain sold by Richard James Weldon? Its weird, like 5 posts about it. I mean of all the things. Its quite an innocuous piece of hardware used on lots of Savile Row suits for the past 100+ years. If you want a pair of pants without the chain just say erm Dave no need for the chain please, the clues in the name, "Bespoke".

http://www.richardjamesweldon.com/

Anyway as to your suggestion about fit pics, sorry, too busy to get into a protracted internet battle with an idiot. You will have the last word here because I wont post in this thread again.

I will defend anybody's right to ask incisive questions about a product. But often times, especially on the Internet, civility is the first attribute to be lost.

Making a statement like 'your level of taste is rather low' either makes you a styleforum deity whose knowledge is too dangerous to impart to us mortals, or somebody with a chip on their shoulder.

Don't want to make a big deal out of this, but civility is a big thing for me (used to work in politics!).
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