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Ambrosi Napoli - Page 11

post #151 of 1858
Quote:
Originally Posted by whnay. View Post
I think he makes the best pants I've ever seen, fkn magic pants.



Btw, how was Utah?

Quote:
Originally Posted by TRINI View Post
Can someone (anyone?) explain the magic of the Ambrosi pents?

I don't mean handwork or construction - I mean fit.

Is there an Ambrosi silhouette?

Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
The "magic" is chiefly in the degree and quality of the hand-sewing. Since the pants are already nearly all hand-sewn (virtually all hand-sewn if you buy the "golden" ones), it is hard to imagine anyone else doing its equal in that respect. Rubinacci, for example, makes excellent trousers--but they cost me twice as much and have about 60% as much hand-sewing. Who cares about hand-sewing? Well, I don't know if they make 'better' pants, but I appreciate the artisanal workmanship regardless of the function or aesthetic effect. If you don't get that, a pair of Ambrosi's aren't for you.

Plus, the price is relatively low. Most bespoke trousers from a top tailor will cost more than $1,000.

=


I thought it was because pents make ass look good... Like really really good.

post #152 of 1858
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ataturk View Post
I understand why people care so much about hand sewing in jackets, since the stitching helps form the shape of the coat. But pants aren't shaped the same way. So why do you care if it's hand sewn or not--just because?

Like I said, if you appreciate the trousers as beautiful objects in and of themselves, pretty hand-sewing matters. I don't think you need it to make trousers that fit well or are shaped right. That said, my Ambrosi trousers are exceptionally comfortably. Who knows if that has to do with the hand-sewing, the fabric, the imagination, etc.
post #153 of 1858
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaymanS View Post
Epic.

The folks who patronize LH - are they overpaying by a bit? Yes, by a bit. But, by and large, the product is excellent, and the higher price often forces one to be disciplined and less experimental with fabrics and cuts. If you're going to spend LH money, you want something that will stand the test of time.

If you like your tailor, stick with him, but it's silly to compare him to another unless you have commissions in hand from both tailors and can speak intelligently about the key differences.

This is pretty much my approach with LH. Given the price, I want classic, not something I'm going to look at in a few years and wonder WTF I was thinking. One additional comment I would make regarding LH charging a premium is the relatively reliability of their trips to the US and the ability to communicate with them; I'm willing to pay a little extra for that. I've used three bespoke tailors, two in Naples, one in Baton Rouge. If the guy in Baton Rouge has an advantage, it's that he's close and accessible. I've really wanted to try Ambrosi, even tried to meet with him when I was in Naples in October. He never responded to my emails. But all the dirty laundry aired in this thread is precisely why I haven't pursued him any more than I have. I can get bespoke pants made that suit my needs without the hassle. Whatever the marginal improvement is for Ambrosi vs others isn't worth the hassle, at least not to me.
post #154 of 1858
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolpapaboze View Post
This is pretty much my approach with LH. Given the price, I want classic, not something I'm going to look at in a few years and wonder WTF I was thinking. One additional comment I would make regarding LH charging a premium is the relatively reliability of their trips to the US and the ability to communicate with them; I'm willing to pay a little extra for that. I've used three bespoke tailors, two in Naples, one in Baton Rouge. If the guy in Baton Rouge has an advantage, it's that he's close and accessible. I've really wanted to try Ambrosi, even tried to meet with him when I was in Naples in October. He never responded to my emails. But all the dirty laundry aired in this thread is precisely why I haven't pursued him any more than I have. I can get bespoke pants made that suit my needs without the hassle. Whatever the marginal improvement is for Ambrosi vs others isn't worth the hassle, at least not to me.

Many on this forum will disagree with me, but:

good / great local tailor > excellent / world-class tailor in a different country
post #155 of 1858
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
Like I said, if you appreciate the trousers as beautiful objects in and of themselves, pretty hand-sewing matters. I don't think you need it to make trousers that fit well or are shaped right. That said, my Ambrosi trousers are exceptionally comfortably. Who knows if that has to do with the hand-sewing, the fabric, the imagination, etc.

Yeah. I see your post above mine, but I'm not sure if it was there when wrote that. If it was, I didn't read it. Sorry.
post #156 of 1858
Quote:
Originally Posted by imageWIS View Post
Many on this forum will disagree with me, but:

good / great local tailor > excellent / world-class tailor in a different country

I'll jump on that wagon. Of course, the problem is that sometimes it's not a matter of objective better or worse. You might reasonaby sacrifice service and technical perfection to get a unique style.
post #157 of 1858
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
I'll jump on that wagon. Of course, the problem is that sometimes it's not a matter of objective better or worse. You might reasonaby sacrifice service and technical perfection to get a unique style.

Well, I'm thinking about it very generally, and from all aspects: cost, wait time, alterations, communicability, ease of 2nd and 3rd fittings, and ease of reorder / modification of a pattern.
post #158 of 1858
Well, yeah. One of the great things I've heard about amrbosi is how they shape the trousers. That's done with an iron and the effect isn't permanent. So do you send them back to italy to get pressed? With the turnaround time you might get to wear them once a year.
post #159 of 1858
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ataturk View Post
Well, yeah. One of the great things I've heard about amrbosi is how they shape the trousers. That's done with an iron and the effect isn't permanent. So do you send them back to italy to get pressed?

I have a good place-- albeit one uninitiated into the magic circle-- for dry-cleaning much closer to home. While they might not do it as well as Ambrosi, I've no real complaints about fit or cut after cleaning.
post #160 of 1858
Quote:
Originally Posted by imageWIS View Post
Many on this forum will disagree with me, but:

good / great local tailor > excellent / world-class tailor in a different country

I have definitely come to appreciate that viewpoint. I will continue using LH and Mina for two reasons: it isn't inconvenient for me to do so, and more importantly, I have been very pleased with the results and really enjoy working with both.
post #161 of 1858
My condolences to those affected. I just can't decide if they have been Ambro-zied or Napoli-ed. Sort of the similar dilemma of whether Naples is the Calcutta of Europe or Calcutta is the Naples of Asia.
post #162 of 1858
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ataturk View Post
Well, yeah. One of the great things I've heard about amrbosi is how they shape the trousers. That's done with an iron and the effect isn't permanent. So do you send them back to italy to get pressed? With the turnaround time you might get to wear them once a year.

I cannot tell if you're being facetious or not but regular ironing following the creases works fine...
post #163 of 1858
Quote:
Originally Posted by S. Magnozzi View Post
I cannot tell if you're being facetious or not but regular ironing following the creases works fine...

He's not talking about pressing, he's talking about shaping i.e. stretching/shrinking areas of the cloth with an iron.
post #164 of 1858
Quote:
Originally Posted by sellahi22 View Post
He's not talking about pressing, he's talking about shaping i.e. stretching/shrinking areas of the cloth with an iron.

Yes, but the same answer applies. I press my trousers based on the creases and they maintain their shape just fine.
post #165 of 1858
Quote:
Originally Posted by S. Magnozzi View Post
Yes, but the same answer applies. I press my trousers based on the creases and they maintain their shape just fine.

The iron shaping is inherently temporary. The cloth returns to its original shape over time, and humidity/steam accelerates the process. The trousers then need to be carefully pressed to achieve the same effects as the original shaping. Jeffreyd has written extensively on this topic, so you should probably read up before posting further.
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