OK... As mentioned I took photos during the making of Emptym's shoes. I'm trying to teach myself to take photos in "manual" mode and adjust aperture and so forth. Some photos just came out fuzzy especially on close-ups. Those got discarded. Because these shoes were shell, I needed a way to close up the backseam of the quarters without adding any bulk. I decided on a "jump stitch." On the Crispin Colloquy we just happened to be discussing this technique at the time and I wanted to document it. So...maybe the following pics will be of some interest. Here, in the same technique I used on these shoes, I have put two pieces of shell face to face and scribed a line a couple of mm from the combined edge. The needle of the machine enters the leather pieces on that line, the stitch is completed, and then the needle "jumps" over the edge. After that stitch is completed, the needle jumps back onto the leather and another stitch is taken. Und so weiter. Here the entire edge/backseam has been "jump stitched." (I used red thread simply to document the technique clearly.) In this pic the backseam has been opened up. and a preliminary flattening applied. As you can see the jump stitch makes a "cross-stitch" (in the form of an "x") on the "under" side. And on the "grain side".... And here's the actual shoe quarters closed along the backseam. I applied a skant skive to the top edge of the quarters and applied a bead along that edge. Of course then I covered that seam with a "stay." In this photo you see the spread quarters looking down from above with the top of the stay neatly folded over the top line of the shoe. Having made boots for forty years, I have a tendency to see things through a particular lens. When ever I can, I will "crimp" or "block" (pre-shape) flat leather pieces. In this photo you see the vamp and tongue as well as the lining blcocked and cut and ready for joining. The next photo shows the quarters and quarter linings . Again I have blocked the linings....thus eliminating any backseam inside the shoe which might become misaligned inside a tall top shoe or cause chaffing as the foots comes and goes. At which point we begin to assemble, in preparation for lasting. I have a few more...which I will post later today or tomorrow.
post #16 of 95
4/8/11 at 9:56am