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Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Thread (including reviews, purchases, pictures, etc...) - Page 214

post #3196 of 22019
Quote:
Originally Posted by justinkapur View Post

Did they feel comfortable or snug when you first wore them and have they stretched significantly? I would hate to buy them a 1/2 size up and they stretch too much making them loose

I find that the lovely leather G&G uses loosens up a good bit with wearing. My personal advise would be to select a size that is quite snug upon initial try on.

My first pair of G&Gs (the exact Oakhams you mentioned) is 1/2 size larger than my second two pairs and the difference in terms of creasing is dramatically different.

When I first put on the smaller sized pairs I temporarily paniced because they were so tight - but after just a day of wearing they were PERFECT!
post #3197 of 22019
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post

Gemming is a substitute for the "holdfast."
Around the perimeter of the bottom of the last...in the forepart, esp....the last will have a sharp corner defining the bottom. This is known as the "featherline." The "feather" is the extreme edge of the insole...cut to the featherline. Often when the shoe is handwelted and there is sufficient substance, the feather will be "rabbeted."
Further in, a groove or cut is made in the insole which parallels the feather. This is known as the "channel."
The space in-between is the "holdfast."
The stitching goes from the channel through the holdfast, emerging in the feather and then piercing and including the upper and welt in the "inseam." The inseam connects the welt and upper to the insole.
Something like this:

292

Thank you VERY much for the detailed explanation.

Having done some reading, and soliciting the advise of kind experts such as yourself I am FINALLY comfortable that I understand the concepts of the various welting/seaming methods in terms of diagramatic arrangement. As an architect this is important to me, as this is a large part of how my mind works.

Thank you again.
post #3198 of 22019
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cravate_Noire View Post

So what exactly has to be handstitchted there to be truly handmade?
(this is not a serious questions, if you show me a single pair of formal shoes (a left or right one would be sufficient actually) of any maker in the world that comes with handsewn uppers I will buy you a drink).

Well I consider a black stingray wholecut to be fairly formal and I can't imagine G&G or any bespoke maker using a sewing machine to close a stingray upper. With a sewing machine the needle would deflect off the nodules and the stitches in the lining would be awfully messy looking. By hand you can easily guide the needle in between the bumps (although uneven spacing the thread becomes invisible) but still line up and space the holes in the lining. Slow and tedious as hell though.

Anyone: If the high end makers are using a michine on stingray any idea how its done?
post #3199 of 22019
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xenon View Post

Well I consider a black stingray wholecut to be fairly formal and I can't imagine G&G or any bespoke maker using a sewing machine to close a stingray upper. With a sewing machine the needle would deflect off the nodules and the stitches in the lining would be awfully messy looking. By hand you can easily guide the needle in between the bumps (although uneven spacing the thread becomes invisible) but still line up and space the holes in the lining. Slow and tedious as hell though.
Anyone: If the high end makers are using a michine on stingray any idea how its done?

I don't do stingray for the very reason you mention (as well as others) but I have seen it done. And it was always done by machine and it was always a mess...if you looked close.

I would not think that doing it by hand would result in a significantly better appearance excepting the fact that a machine driven needle might break a pearl now and again. Regardless of how it is done, if the machine driven needle deflects because it cannot penetrate the pearl, rest assured that the hand-held needle would not be able to penetrate the pearl either and so would have to enter the stingrray in just about the same position.
post #3200 of 22019
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gdot View Post

I find that the lovely leather G&G uses loosens up a good bit with wearing. My personal advise would be to select a size that is quite snug upon initial try on.

My first pair of G&Gs (the exact Oakhams you mentioned) is 1/2 size larger than my second two pairs and the difference in terms of creasing is dramatically different.

When I first put on the smaller sized pairs I temporarily paniced because they were so tight - but after just a day of wearing they were PERFECT!

My experience with G&G has been exactly the same.
post #3201 of 22019
Quote:
Hi Stitch,

Good News..I’m collecting your shoes on Friday. I’ll ship them with my faster shipping service so they should be with you on Tuesday or Wednesday next week. I’ll email tracking details and some photos of your finished shoes on Friday.

Regards,
Nick.
post #3202 of 22019
Quote:
Originally Posted by yarnsforth View Post

My experience with G&G has been exactly the same.

i had the same with carmina as well.
post #3203 of 22019
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

Quote:
Hi Stitch,

Good News..I’m collecting your shoes on Friday. I’ll ship them with my faster shipping service so they should be with you on Tuesday or Wednesday next week. I’ll email tracking details and some photos of your finished shoes on Friday.

Regards,
Nick.


Time for a sing-along!

OH HAPPY DAY!............

OH HAPPY DAY!............

THE DAY THE SHOES ARRIVE!
post #3204 of 22019
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gdot View Post

Time for a sing-along!
OH HAPPY DAY!............
OH HAPPY DAY!............
THE DAY THE SHOES ARRIVE!

cheers.gif

ill try and post the pics he sends in anticipation of this event.
post #3205 of 22019
I believe a star is rising in the east.........

The clouds are parting and a magnificent chorus seems to be eminating from teh sky..............

Why do I feel an urge to get on my camel and travel to Baltimore bearing gifts?

Life is so confusing!

biggrin.gif
post #3206 of 22019


 

Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post


cheers.gif
ill try and post the pics he sends in anticipation of this event.


 

Oh yes, will watch them in my phone while im taning, to get even more relaxed colgate.gif! Now I need to pack my bag guys, see you in a week! Will have some great pictures for you all!

post #3207 of 22019
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gdot View Post

I believe a star is rising in the east.........
The clouds are parting and a magnificent chorus seems to be eminating from teh sky..............
Why do I feel an urge to get on my camel and travel to Baltimore bearing gifts?
Life is so confusing!
biggrin.gif

lol, please do!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sir F View Post

Oh yes, will watch them in my phone while im taning, to get even more relaxed colgate.gif ! Now I need to pack my bag guys, see you in a week! Will have some great pictures for you all!

see u soon. have fun!
post #3208 of 22019
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

cheers.gif
ill try and post the pics he sends in anticipation of this event.

lurker[1].gifcheers.gif
post #3209 of 22019
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sir F View Post



 



Oh yes, will watch them in my phone while im taning, to get even more relaxed colgate.gif ! Now I need to pack my bag guys, see you in a week! Will have some great pictures for you all!

Have a nice time! I´m packing myself...going to Spain and Italy for 3.5 weeks biggrin.gif
post #3210 of 22019
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank the sheep View Post


Have a nice time! I´m packing myself...going to Spain and Italy for 3.5 weeks biggrin.gif


Same too you! We really need to get away from this weather man.. enjoy!

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