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Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Thread (including reviews, purchases, pictures, etc...) - Page 213

post #3181 of 21771
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gdot View Post

I did a little rereading of the Vass book and some of the posts of DWFII and I think I have this right.
To clarify further: The 'Seam' or 'Inseam' is the row of stiches which attaches the upper to the insole. This stitch also typically goes through the welt strip in handsewn, welted shoes.
The welt stitch is the stitch which then connects the welt strip to the sole.
In my mind these are the two stitches, which hold the entire shoe together, that must be done by hand before a shoe can be called 'handmade'.
And no Goodyear welted shoe can be called handmade because the welt strip is sewn to the sole by a machine. (Unless the term 'Goodyear welted' is being misused.)
Someone will surely correct me if my description is mistaken.

Actually the term "Goodyear" means...technically and contemporaneously...that the welt and upper are sewn, by machine to a canvas rib that is glued to the insole. Fundamentally, the holding principle, holding the shoe together, is glue. And in a very real sense, nothing is holding the upper to the insole--there is no direct attachment.

Some people use the term "Goodyear" to refer to any welted construction...but that's not correct.
post #3182 of 21771
Would it be accurate to state that the gemming is essentially a substitution for the 'feather'?
post #3183 of 21771
Guys quick question, if I am between a US 9.5 and US 10 would I opt for a UK9 or UK9.5 in GG? I am trying to hound in on the size so I can order a pair of Oakhams.
post #3184 of 21771


 

Quote:
Originally Posted by justinkapur View Post

Guys quick question, if I am between a US 9.5 and US 10 would I opt for a UK9 or UK9.5 in GG? I am trying to hound in on the size so I can order a pair of Oakhams.


Well I took a half size bigger in G&G. As they are smaller in size. I would take a 9,5 UK


Edited by Sir F - 4/17/12 at 10:57pm
post #3185 of 21771
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post


there are no foolish questions as long as you are earnest. its the only way to learn buddy. sleep well.


And now good morning! Glad to hear that biggrin.gif! And now I have to go to work in my boring .... Tod's shoes, I feel diffrent mad.gif

post #3186 of 21771
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sir F View Post


Well I took a half size bigger in G&G. As they are smaller in size. I would take a 9,5 UK

Did they feel comfortable or snug when you first wore them and have they stretched significantly? I would hate to buy them a 1/2 size up and they stretch too much making them loose
post #3187 of 21771
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sir F View Post



 


Well I took a half size bigger in G&G. As they are smaller in size. I would take a 9,5 UK

+1. I would only size down a half size. 10US = 9.5UK. My experience with the TG73 and DG70
post #3188 of 21771
Quote:
Originally Posted by justinkapur View Post


Did they feel comfortable or snug when you first wore them and have they stretched significantly? I would hate to buy them a 1/2 size up and they stretch too much making them loose


Well they fited me like a glove and after a while they will stretch up a bit that will make them even more comfortable smile.gif Good luck! 

post #3189 of 21771
Quote:
Originally Posted by justinkapur View Post

Did they feel comfortable or snug when you first wore them and have they stretched significantly? I would hate to buy them a 1/2 size up and they stretch too much making them loose

+2. US 8.5E -> UK 8F (TG73)
post #3190 of 21771
Quote:
Originally Posted by jammyo40 View Post

+2. US 8.5E -> UK 8F (TG73)

do you guys only factor size or other parameters e.g. high/low instep, narrow heel, wide forefoot etc., etc. and style: derby or oxford/bal?
post #3191 of 21771
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post

do you guys only factor size or other parameters e.g. high/low instep, narrow heel, wide forefoot etc., etc. and style: derby or oxford/bal?

At the time I got my first G&Gs, I was a complete shoe noob (still am), so I probably wouldn't have. Thankfully, Dean was there to guide the way when he was in Dallas.
post #3192 of 21771
Quote:
Originally Posted by jammyo40 View Post

At the time I got my first G&Gs, I was a complete shoe noob (still am), so I probably wouldn't have. Thankfully, Dean was there to guide the way when he was in Dallas.

this makes a biiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiig difference. that's why, i always chuckle when people give size advise solely on numbers. each to his own.
post #3193 of 21771
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post

this makes a biiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiig difference. that's why, i always chuckle when people give size advise solely on numbers. each to his own.

Yeap. Nothing like a master shoemaker to personally observe and measure your feet biggrin.gif Also, trying on that croc suede deco loafer during the trunk show was pretty sweet too.
post #3194 of 21771
Quote:
Originally Posted by jammyo40 View Post

Yeap. Nothing like a master shoemaker to personally observe and measure your feet biggrin.gif

i totally agree, still the majority here thinks brand whoring and groupthink is more effective. this is of course not a g&g thing.

b&s is full of these wisenheimer attempts...
post #3195 of 21771
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gdot View Post

Would it be accurate to state that the gemming is essentially a substitution for the 'feather'?

Gemming is a substitute for the "holdfast."

Around the perimeter of the bottom of the last...in the forepart, esp....the last will have a sharp corner defining the bottom. This is known as the "featherline." The "feather" is the extreme edge of the insole...cut to the featherline. Often when the shoe is handwelted and there is sufficient substance, the feather will be "rabbeted."

Further in, a groove or cut is made in the insole which parallels the feather. This is known as the "channel."

The space in-between is the "holdfast."

The stitching goes from the channel through the holdfast, emerging in the feather and then piercing and including the upper and welt in the "inseam." The inseam connects the welt and upper to the insole.

Something like this:

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Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Thread (including reviews, purchases, pictures, etc...)