or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Thread (including reviews, purchases, pictures, etc...)
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Thread (including reviews, purchases, pictures, etc...) - Page 1367

post #20491 of 21772
Quote:
Originally Posted by galileo View Post




Thanks! For Vass, well, let it be.

I would mostly take dark navy suit, as tried black & dark velvet last year for pre-wedding photo with my cat (coz he was heavily sick years old and I don't want to miss the chance for a proper photo with him) and it's urgh... too sharp for me. Plum, vintage rioja, burgundy, oak caught my eyes.

Somewhat will double-monk fits better for jeans?

Depends on the double monks but it would be rare to impossible to find one that goes from jeans to wedding day attire and looks good paired with both & everything in between. It's a bit like asking your hyundai to act as your work truck, sports car, & luxury car.
post #20492 of 21772
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrVenneri View Post
 

 

I'm sorry to ruffle feathers Rohit but Vass shoes deeply offend each one of my senses in the most egregious manner possible. For me, their lasts fit poorly and the variance is unpredictable...much like the quality control and customer service. I presume they named themselves 'Vass' after their unprecedentedly vast inconsistencies. They also don't have any real originality or iconic designs. One most notably disrespectful example is ripping off EG's coveted Galway, even coining the name 'Valway'. For me, that's simply put...pathetic.

 

For those reasons alone, I'm out...with extreme prejudice.

G&G have their own Galways rip off too though...

 

http://gaziano-girling.tumblr.com/post/65607678296/new-model-in-vintage-chestnut-calf-and-brown#notes

post #20493 of 21772
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrVenneri View Post
 

 

I'm sorry to ruffle feathers Rohit but Vass shoes deeply offend each one of my senses in the most egregious manner possible. For me, their lasts fit poorly and the variance is unpredictable...much like the quality control and customer service. I presume they named themselves 'Vass' after their unprecedentedly vast inconsistencies. They also don't have any real originality or iconic designs. One most notably disrespectful example is ripping off EG's coveted Galway, even coining the name 'Valway'. For me, that's simply put...pathetic.

 

For those reasons alone, I'm out...with extreme prejudice.


Style and Fit are entirely subjective, so no point in commenting on that. I agree that Vass and G&G aren't in the same league with regards to finishing and attention to detail, and that is clearly reflected in the price differences. Also, I suspect relative labor cost differences between the UK and Hungary play a role as well. However, I just want to point out a few things:

 

1) Vass' bread and butter is MTO orders, and many customers like that the workshop will basically make them exactly whatever shoe they want. The Galway is an iconic boot, but many brands make a cap toe blucher boot, and if a customer requests this style with a leather composition similar to the stock Galway models, Vass will make it for them. Vass themselves didn't coin the term "Valway," but rather it was a name that sprang up here and elsewhere on the internet. The name Vass uses for a cap toe blucher boot is "Thresainer boot." So the perception that Vass is consciously ripping off other brands and blatantly branding themselves is not entirely accurate. One could debate whether they should refuse to build boots for customers in makeups that seem derivative, but then you go down the road of deciding who "owns" exclusive rights to a particular shoe design or color combination. 

 

2) I would say that Vass does in fact have two "house styles" and they are the classic Austro-Hungarian patterns, shapes, and welting methods, and also the more Italian designs by Uglioni. 

 

3) The inconsistencies that spring up in fit are largely the result of the entire shoemaking process being completed by hand. Vass doesn't machine last, machine welt, or stitch soles by machine. All this is done by hand. And actually there are many who consider these methods to be superior to Goodyear welt construction methods. I'm agnostic personally on the benefits either way, but to compare hand lasted, hand welted footwear to cemented throw-aways is kinda gross. I haven't personally experienced drastic size differences, but I have read about them, and I agree they must be heartbreaking.

 

but yeah, G&G are awesome, no doubt. I don't own any yet, but hope to when I can eventually get fitted at a trunk show, as I have extra-extra wide dogs (one reason Vass lasts work for me). For now, I'm content to admire the pairs y'all post here. :)

post #20494 of 21772
Quote:
Originally Posted by rbhan12 View Post


Definitely some valid points. I don't own any Vass though, so no ruffled feathers here. Makes me wonder how you feel about Bonafe... wink.gif

 

No experience with Enzo so I can't comment...but I've always loved button boots!

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Diabolical View Post
 

G&G have their own Galways rip off too though...

 

http://gaziano-girling.tumblr.com/post/65607678296/new-model-in-vintage-chestnut-calf-and-brown#notes

 

The history between Tony Gaziano and Edward Green makes that bit of a gray area. Who borrowed who's idea first and what have you.

 

PS: Those boots are @#$!ing beautiful though, good lord.

post #20495 of 21772
Quote:
Originally Posted by justonemore View Post


Depends on the double monks but it would be rare to impossible to find one that goes from jeans to wedding day attire and looks good paired with both & everything in between. It's a bit like asking your hyundai to act as your work truck, sports car, & luxury car.


Sorry for that, really newbie to dress shoes and it's like thinking one versatile pair for all.

 

Let's say something in between?

post #20496 of 21772
Quote:
Originally Posted by peppercorn78 View Post Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
 


Style and Fit are entirely subjective, so no point in commenting on that. I agree that Vass and G&G aren't in the same league with regards to finishing and attention to detail, and that is clearly reflected in the price differences. Also, I suspect relative labor cost differences between the UK and Hungary play a role as well. However, I just want to point out a few things:

 

1) Vass' bread and butter is MTO orders, and many customers like that the workshop will basically make them exactly whatever shoe they want. The Galway is an iconic boot, but many brands make a cap toe blucher boot, and if a customer requests this style with a leather composition similar to the stock Galway models, Vass will make it for them. Vass themselves didn't coin the term "Valway," but rather it was a name that sprang up here and elsewhere on the internet. The name Vass uses for a cap toe blucher boot is "Thresainer boot." So the perception that Vass is consciously ripping off other brands and blatantly branding themselves is not entirely accurate. One could debate whether they should refuse to build boots for customers in makeups that seem derivative, but then you go down the road of deciding who "owns" exclusive rights to a particular shoe design or color combination. 

 

2) I would say that Vass does in fact have two "house styles" and they are the classic Austro-Hungarian patterns, shapes, and welting methods, and also the more Italian designs by Uglioni. 

 

3) The inconsistencies that spring up in fit are largely the result of the entire shoemaking process being completed by hand. Vass doesn't machine last, machine welt, or stitch soles by machine. All this is done by hand. And actually there are many who consider these methods to be superior to Goodyear welt construction methods. I'm agnostic personally on the benefits either way, but to compare hand lasted, hand welted footwear to cemented throw-aways is kinda gross. I haven't personally experienced drastic size differences, but I have read about them, and I agree they must be heartbreaking.

 

but yeah, G&G are awesome, no doubt. I don't own any yet, but hope to when I can eventually get fitted at a trunk show, as I have extra-extra wide dogs (one reason Vass lasts work for me). For now, I'm content to admire the pairs y'all post here. :)

 

 

I completely respect and appreciate your opinions/perspective. I'm genuinely happy for you that you've found a shoe-maker that suits your preferences and foot adequately. For me, that's just not the case and I stand behind all of my brutally condemning sentiments.

 

If Vass or any other shoe-marker wants to reach out to me and offer some sort of endorsement representative deal where I'm adequately compensated monetarily...By all means - send your inquiries directly to my PM box. Until then I just don't have enough meat on the bone to argue strongly one way or the other.

post #20497 of 21772
Quote:
Originally Posted by peppercorn78 View Post


Style and Fit are entirely subjective, so no point in commenting on that. I agree that Vass and G&G aren't in the same league with regards to finishing and attention to detail, and that is clearly reflected in the price differences. Also, I suspect relative labor cost differences between the UK and Hungary play a role as well. However, I just want to point out a few things:

1) Vass' bread and butter is MTO orders, and many customers like that the workshop will basically make them exactly whatever shoe they want. The Galway is an iconic boot, but many brands make a cap toe blucher boot, and if a customer requests this style with a leather composition similar to the stock Galway models, Vass will make it for them. Vass themselves didn't coin the term "Valway," but rather it was a name that sprang up here and elsewhere on the internet. The name Vass uses for a cap toe blucher boot is "Thresainer boot." So the perception that Vass is consciously ripping off other brands and blatantly branding themselves is not entirely accurate. One could debate whether they should refuse to build boots for customers in makeups that seem derivative, but then you go down the road of deciding who "owns" exclusive rights to a particular shoe design or color combination. 

2) I would say that Vass does in fact have two "house styles" and they are the classic Austro-Hungarian patterns, shapes, and welting methods, and also the more Italian designs by Uglioni. 

3) The inconsistencies that spring up in fit are largely the result of the entire shoemaking process being completed by hand. Vass doesn't machine last, machine welt, or stitch soles by machine. All this is done by hand. And actually there are many who consider these methods to be superior to Goodyear welt construction methods. I'm agnostic personally on the benefits either way, but to compare hand lasted, hand welted footwear to cemented throw-aways is kinda gross. I haven't personally experienced drastic size differences, but I have read about them, and I agree they must be heartbreaking.

but yeah, G&G are awesome, no doubt. I don't own any yet, but hope to when I can eventually get fitted at a trunk show, as I have extra-extra wide dogs (one reason Vass lasts work for me). For now, I'm content to admire the pairs y'all post here. smile.gif

There's a lot to be said for this....one example being tassel loafers and penny loafers...American yet I'm pretty sure all the English companies have copied the design to Include G&G, EG, Cleverley, etc.

Should we find the origin of the captoe Oxford and boycott all other companies? It goes a bit far when it comes to what really comes down to limited base design selection.

It is indeed pretty hard to declare captoe derby boots as an EG origin...they might have the most famous model but I doubt they were the first (but perhaps I'm wrong?).

We often see QC issues with all brands...not sure how it became exclusive to Vass.

Despite sizing differences, QC issues, CS issues I would take Vass over a glued corrected grain pos any day...and I would guess that given rational thought versus an emotive outburst, our friend mrvenniri would most likely as well..

All that being said...to each his own...I have no Vass so I have no pony in the game myself
post #20498 of 21772

I agree with the above re penny loafers and tassel loafers. Further, didn't John Lobb make the first double monk that eventually became a major fashion trend? Pretty much every shoe company has a double monk, but few are lambasted for having a double monk pattern. 

 

Maybe the Galway boot will become that kind of shoe; several shoemakers find the pattern so attractive and appealing that they'd be stupid to not make it. You could make the same case for the Corthay Arca. Anytime we (or maybe just me) see an attractive 1-3 eyelet derby we (maybe just me again) foam at the mouth at the beautifully long vamp and the elegance of traditionally casual shoe. 

 

If you can't beat them, join them. I think this applies to the Galway pattern as well, especially considering that GG presented their own version in 2013. 

post #20499 of 21772
^^^^I could be wrong but wasn't it Cleverley that started with the chisel toe design in the U.K...or was it the shop he was in previously (Tuczek)?
Edited by justonemore - 5/25/16 at 1:01pm
post #20500 of 21772
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrVenneri View Post
 

 

The history between Tony Gaziano and Edward Green makes that bit of a gray area. Who borrowed who's idea first and what have you.

 

PS: Those boots are @#$!ing beautiful though, good lord.

 

So just to give some background as to the new Enzo "Balway" -- my friend worked with Lorenzo at Solegarb to develop that new pattern for Enzo - so it's not like something Enzo came up with on their own.  Lorenzo (and myself) are now coming up with a new pattern for a shell and tweed button boot that has a somewhat similar pattern (still spots open if interested!).

 

Enzo Bonafé seem more than happy to make a boot to their customers specifications.  I imagine Vass operates similarly, and Rozsnyai as well for that matter (I have a pair of second hand "Ralways" which are fantastic). Should Enzo be turning me down just because what I'm requesting is similar to a J. Fitzpatrick pattern?

 

I can see an argument "well just get the J. Fitzpatrick one", but I'm already very familiar with Enzo's lasts at this point, and they fit me extremely well.  Not to mention Lorenzo has the mahogany shell and worked with me to pick out the tweed for them.

 

I mean I think part of the fun with these makers is they can pretty much do whatever you want.  Even if that may be a little derivative.  But even then I think they add their own flair and distinctive nature to whatever comes out.

post #20501 of 21772
Quote:
Originally Posted by Diabolical View Post

G&G have their own Galways rip off too though...

http://gaziano-girling.tumblr.com/post/65607678296/new-model-in-vintage-chestnut-calf-and-brown#notes
To be fair, they made a one off request for me. I asked them to make me a GG version of the Galway, not their idea. This model was never in their catalog for order.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MrVenneri View Post

The history between Tony Gaziano and Edward Green makes that bit of a gray area. Who borrowed who's idea first and what have you.

PS: Those boots are @#$!ing beautiful though, good lord.

I thought they came out nice too.
post #20502 of 21772
Quote:
Originally Posted by galileo View Post


Sorry for that, really newbie to dress shoes and it's like thinking one versatile pair for all.

Let's say something in between?

I hate to disappoint you but if you're wearing a black or very dark navy tux, only black shoes would work. Why don't you just buy the C&J Weymouth cause they fit you? Unless you're renting your tux, you do need a pair of black shoes and I'm sure the Weymouths are a very solid pair that will last you a long time. Also, there will definitely be occasions which call for black shoes only.
post #20503 of 21772
Quote:
Originally Posted by galileo View Post
 

Hi all, newbie here. I'm consider Vass/G&G as my wedding shoe.

Being a narrow feet 9C, and I would prefer wholecuts for my low instep feet & love the style.

Tried C&J Weymouth and 7E seems sitting on feet well.

 

I'm lost in color choice as I seldom dress up, and assume the wedding suit will be black, dark navy or dark velvet tux.

A note would be I'm very slim - 27" waist and I couldn't manage to boast my size for years. Metabolism issue.

 

I wish to keep the shoe for daily use - while I will be in jeans and tee/polo as being in  IT & video production, no dress up is required.

 

Would you all kindly share your thoughts with me? Cheers!


If you have a low instep, Vass will be a hard fit, at least in the U and K lasts.  A boot would help sizing.  If you do go for Vass and are in the US, I highly recommend a proxy.  The domestic retail markup is significant.  Also, Vass has sizing inconsistencies among (and maybe within) lasts, so internet sizing advice is tenuous.  I do like Vass, but it took me two tries to get a good fit, and I ate some loss on re-sale.  I was okay with that, but there is time (of which you may not have enough if the wedding is soon) and cost involved in trial and error.

 

G&G offers reliable detail finishing and reliable sizing advice from merchants like Bespoke England and Skoak.  Both have steered me right based on my fits in other major brands.  The tradeoff is a higher price, especially considering the additional cost of trees (trees come included with Vass).

post #20504 of 21772
Quote:
Originally Posted by TtownMD View Post

You gents making me wonder what other shades of brown can you get Sinatra in biggrin.gif

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chowkin View Post


I hate to disappoint you but if you're wearing a black or very dark navy tux, only black shoes would work. Why don't you just buy the C&J Weymouth cause they fit you? Unless you're renting your tux, you do need a pair of black shoes and I'm sure the Weymouths are a very solid pair that will last you a long time. Also, there will definitely be occasions which call for black shoes only.


Here are two Sinatras to fill the bill.  I agree that black is preferred based on the suit color.

 

 

post #20505 of 21772
Quote:
Originally Posted by armsignet View Post




Here are two Sinatras to fill the bill.  I agree that black is preferred based on the suit color.





What color is that? Very nice now what size are you? We may have to meet up at Easton some time lol if you are still in buckeye town.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Thread (including reviews, purchases, pictures, etc...)