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Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Thread (including reviews, purchases, pictures, etc...) - Page 1233

post #18481 of 21772
Quote:
Originally Posted by bespoken pa View Post

I wish i had your adventurous spirit ddd. I would like to do another thorpe maybe in vintage oak or a suede.

Too be honest I have a problem thinking the Thorpe would be any good in suede, but vintage oak would be real nice.

Too bad you didn't pickup the RL version like @Namor did when they were on eBay.
post #18482 of 21772
I have beem toying around with the idea of an oyster suede dover. Suede is lacking in my rotation.
post #18483 of 21772
Quote:
Originally Posted by grc1 View Post





Cheers gents. cheers.gif
They're E width - I took a halfsize up to 10E relative to my dress shoes to accommodate thicker socks. As far as instep, the derby-style open lacing is much more forgiving than the closed lacing of my dress shoes, which are all oxford styles - in all my dress shoes I've always asked for an "instep cone" to make the last a bit more generous on the instep to minimise the dreaded V-gap. I don't want a full closure on the Thorpes anyway - for derby styles I like a gap that's fairly consistent in width, for oxford styles I like it as small as possible without the facings actually meeting.

Tell me more about this instep cone? Is this something you can ask for in an MTO or is this a bespoke adjustment?
post #18484 of 21772
biggrin.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by bespoken pa View Post

I have beem toying around with the idea of an oyster suede dover. Suede is lacking in my rotation.

Now a Suede Dover, I could see a suede Dover.

Personally I've been toying with a Polo Suede St James. I'm not a big Suede only shoe or boot person, but somehow a Polo St James would be really sweet.
post #18485 of 21772
Quote:
Originally Posted by dddrees View Post

biggrin.gif
Now a Suede Dover, I could see a suede Dover.

Personally I've been toying with a Polo Suede St James. I'm not a big Suede only shoe or boot person, but somehow a Polo St James would be really sweet.
That is very true lol
post #18486 of 21772
Quote:
Originally Posted by dddrees View Post

biggrin.gif
Now a Suede Dover, I could see a suede Dover.

Personally I've been toying with a Polo Suede St James. I'm not a big Suede only shoe or boot person, but somehow a Polo St James would be really sweet.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TtownMD View Post

That is very true lol

Well I'm sure you guys saw my polo St James and they are my favorite suede shoe! Get them if you can and you will love them. They are great from professional dress at work to jeans.
post #18487 of 21772
Quote:
Originally Posted by mw313 View Post



Well I'm sure you guys saw my polo St James and they are my favorite suede shoe! Get them if you can and you will love them. They are great from professional dress at work to jeans.


Well it certainly is on my radar screen now that I know the MH71 Last works so well for me.

post #18488 of 21772


Thought this might interest some people who have G&G boots on here.

 

Since buying my Thorpes it began to bug me that the G&G shoe trees were highly sprung and that it was very difficult to get the trees in and the row of stitching at the back of the heel was particularly vulnerable to the rubbing of the heel piece.

 

 

I decided to take the G&G shoe trees apart and reassemble with the springs taken out so they don't rub the heel piece when inserting but still provide the required shape.

 

I drilled the holes out either side of the heel piece and there is a nail going through the full length which takes a bit of coaxing to be punched through.

 

 

When punched through it can then be pulled out and the springs taken off the two guides.

 

 

 

All that is needed then is for the nail to be put back without the springs inserted.

 

 

Here you can see them in the boots with a slight gap that is clearly under no tension. Once I have worn them a few more times I shall make a wooden wedge to take up the slack to give back the tension it needs. I believe Corthay use a three block shoe tree and this is basically what I had in mind.

post #18489 of 21772
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steven Cash View Post

 

 I believe Corthay use a three block shoe tree and this is basically what I had in mind.

 

Nick at Bespoke used to offer three piece boot trees.  Unfortunately they had to be discontinued as G&G insisted that the three piece boot trees are reserved for bespoke customers only,.

 

 

 

http://www.styleforum.net/t/236162/gaziano-girling-appreciation-shoe-appreciation-thread-including-reviews-purchases-pictures-etc/8010#post_6310348

post #18490 of 21772
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chowkin View Post
 

 

Nick at Bespoke used to offer three piece boot trees.  Unfortunately they had to be discontinued as G&G insisted that the three piece boot trees are reserved for bespoke customers only,.

 

 

 

http://www.styleforum.net/t/236162/gaziano-girling-appreciation-shoe-appreciation-thread-including-reviews-purchases-pictures-etc/8010#post_6310348

 

That is very interesting - thank you.

 

I can see why they would reserve them for bespoke only though. The middle pieces that I will need to make for each of my trees will be very different to one another. Presumably the fact that both the shoes and the shoe trees are hand made/assembled creates tolerances both ways which need to be factored in.

 

Those three piece boot trees are a work of art though.

 

Out of interest do bespoke customers receive three piece shoe trees or is it just for the boots?

post #18491 of 21772
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steven Cash View Post


Thought this might interest some people who have G&G boots on here.

Since buying my Thorpes it began to bug me that the G&G shoe trees were highly sprung and that it was very difficult to get the trees in and the row of stitching at the back of the heel was particularly vulnerable to the rubbing of the heel piece.




I decided to take the G&G shoe trees apart and reassemble with the springs taken out so they don't rub the heel piece when inserting but still provide the required shape.

I drilled the holes out either side of the heel piece and there is a nail going through the full length which takes a bit of coaxing to be punched through.




When punched through it can then be pulled out and the springs taken off the two guides.







All that is needed then is for the nail to be put back without the springs inserted.




Here you can see them in the boots with a slight gap that is clearly under no tension. Once I have worn them a few more times I shall make a wooden wedge to take up the slack to give back the tension it needs. I believe Corthay use a three block shoe tree and this is basically what I had in mind.

Can you cut the spring to make it a bit shorter to reduce the tension?
post #18492 of 21772
Quote:
Originally Posted by A Guy from Shanghai View Post


Can you cut the spring to make it a bit shorter to reduce the tension?

 

They certainly could be cut to length yes. It would be trial and error due to the fact that both shoe trees (in my case) need adjusting by a different amount so you would need to cut the springs to individual lengths.

 

My preference towards the addition of a third piece is that it the tree can be placed in the boot in their fully compressed state and then be increased whilst in position. The springs are quite strong in the shoe trees and I found it very fiddly to compress them and push them down in the boots at the same time - however it was only the rubbing of the row of stitching running down the heels that concerned me.

 

If worst comes to the worst it is completely reversible at this stage.

post #18493 of 21772
Quote:
Originally Posted by coldinboston View Post

Tell me more about this instep cone? Is this something you can ask for in an MTO or is this a bespoke adjustment?

It's a piece that they fit on top of the standard last to give a roomier instep relative to the standard shoe - I've done it now on all my MTO's.
post #18494 of 21772
Quote:
Originally Posted by grc1 View Post

It's a piece that they fit on top of the standard last to give a roomier instep relative to the standard shoe - I've done it now on all my MTO's.

Good call. I know you can request this from other makers.
post #18495 of 21772
Quote:
Originally Posted by grc1 View Post


......in all my dress shoes I've always asked for an "instep cone" to make the last a bit more generous on the instep to minimise the dreaded V-gap.

Is the term "instep cone" your invention or G&G's? - That fitting-up piece is normally known as a "shover" in the shoe-trade .

Impress the G&G boys the next time by asking for a shover to be fitted. biggrin.gif
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Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Thread (including reviews, purchases, pictures, etc...)