or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Thread (including reviews, purchases, pictures, etc...)
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Thread (including reviews, purchases, pictures, etc...) - Page 117

post #1741 of 21772
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post

Sometimes a "jigger step" will also be impressed into the edge (the welt really).

241
post #1742 of 21772

Since G&G/EG are both gemmed, how would the process change for making the beveled waist?

post #1743 of 21772
Quote:
Originally Posted by chogall View Post

Since G&G/EG are both gemmed, how would the process change for making the beveled waist?

Goodyear welting won't affect whether a beveled waist can be implemented or not. But as we see with many other companies, once the company decides to embrace time and cost saving measures in one part of the process, the door is opened for all kinds of further expediencies.
Edited by DWFII - 11/8/11 at 8:10pm
post #1744 of 21772
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post


Goodyear welting won't affect whether a beveled waist can be implemented or not. But as we see with G&G, once the company decides to embrace time and cost saving measures in one part of the process, the door is opened for all kinds of further expediencies.


From what i understand from various discussions threads, all UK RTW makers including JL does gemming, so that's the lowest common denominator. 

 

Maybe the change in sole/heel separation/notch has something to do with its recent change of manufacturer?  AS Handgrades still retains  that feature.

post #1745 of 21772
Quote:
Originally Posted by kolecho View Post

Look at the point where the heel meets the waist on the front shoe. See how there is a small notch there. This type of bespoke detailing was on all G&G RTW and MTO up until a couple of months ago.

Yeah, pictures from the recently stocked shoes at Bespoke England website are all missing the notch. uhoh.gif
post #1746 of 21772
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpooPoker View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post

Sometimes a "jigger step" will also be impressed into the edge (the welt really).

241

Was waiting for someone to point that out. Lol.
post #1747 of 21772
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by chogall View Post

Since G&G/EG are both gemmed, how would the process change for making the beveled waist?

Goodyear welting won't affect whether a beveled waist can be implemented or not. But as we see with G&G, once the company decides to embrace time and cost saving measures in one part of the process, the door is opened for all kinds of further expediencies.

I think you have a point, but I do hope you are proven wrong. Alfred Sargent must have a smirk on their faces now.
post #1748 of 21772
...
post #1749 of 21772
Are people going to stop ordering G&G's because this notch is missing, I doubt it

Interestingly the notch is much more pronounced on their RTW/MTO's than the bespokes. Cleverley's AC line don't have it either nor do cleverley's bespoke really have it
post #1750 of 21772
Quote:
Originally Posted by kolecho View Post


heel.jpg

Unless I'm totally mistaken by the picture, that pair of shoes is not made with a 'bevelled' but a 'square' waist. Look at the medial (inside) waist: it does not go down to nothing with hidden stitching and a semi-curved profile. The square edge of the sole continues square under the waist before it goes into the straight-cut heel stack. So, there is no need to separate the convex with the straight edge, using a step.

It's a question of choice whether you employ a bevelled or a square waist. In the case of that particular shoe with it's excessive perforations, a square waist looks to me the (stylistically) correct solution.
post #1751 of 21772
All these are sans notch, and I would think they have beveled waist and fiddle back. Photos borrowed from Leffot's blog.

DSC_0050.jpg
DSC_0048.jpg
DSC_00042.jpg
DSC_0003.jpg
DSC_0018.jpg
post #1752 of 21772
Quote:
Originally Posted by luk-cha View Post


i am looking for some new DM's

pink?
post #1753 of 21772
Quote:
i have just heard from G&G that they will bee revising all of the new styles, both double monks and lazyman shoes, the ones released, all 4 styles will be released early 2012 along with pictures of a new single monk call Regency, an improved Monaco style casual called Holkham and a new deco style dont know what the deco will be but i will guess that they will bring them when they are in HK during their HK trunk show i hope.

At the Dallas Trunk show, Tony had the Regency on display in Polo suede. It's actually the one I've ordered, except with a cap toe and medallion. See pic...

209
post #1754 of 21772
Quote:
Originally Posted by rsharp00 View Post

Quote:
i have just heard from G&G that they will bee revising all of the new styles, both double monks and lazyman shoes, the ones released, all 4 styles will be released early 2012 along with pictures of a new single monk call Regency, an improved Monaco style casual called Holkham and a new deco style dont know what the deco will be but i will guess that they will bring them when they are in HK during their HK trunk show i hope.
At the Dallas Trunk show, Tony had the Regency on display in Polo suede. It's actually the one I've ordered, except with a cap toe and medallion. See pic...
209

i like it. enjoy!
post #1755 of 21772
Cross post from the Rock your Shoes/Socks Combo Thread

G & G Grants on their maiden voyage.

526
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Thread (including reviews, purchases, pictures, etc...)