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Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Thread (including reviews, purchases, pictures, etc...) - Page 875

post #13111 of 21771
Quote:
Originally Posted by grc1 View Post

I sent in my Fairbanks in deco maple calf for the patina service:


Tony said the palette was pretty unlimited for a colour that light - I chose a colour similar to the 4th from the left:



Can't wait to see how they turn out!

Good to hear that because my Burnhams are either in Maple or Chestnut color. I would really prefer to turn them in very dark brown.
post #13112 of 21771
Quote:
Originally Posted by laufer View Post

Good to hear that because my Burnhams are either in Maple or Chestnut color. I would really prefer to turn them in very dark brown.

I use to really like the idea of lighter colored shoes. Now i'm looking at just dark browns, black/navy, and dark burgundies. The lightest i will go now is something like GG cedar. How things change as we refine our own style...
post #13113 of 21771
The problem with light shades is that the original colour is very hard to maintain, spots will definitely show, they're best only in spring and summer, theycannot be polished to shine as well as darker colours, et cetera. Otherwise they are just fine and dandy.
post #13114 of 21771

I may attend the trunk show...

 

Dont think I will order though.

 

I am thinking of going strictly bespoke from now on.

 

I will be at the Bestetti trunk show at Leffot too for Riccardo to perform the fitting of my trial shoes 

post #13115 of 21771

What last do you guys think woud look best for a GG Balmoral boot with a double dainite sole with F-width?

post #13116 of 21771
Quote:
Originally Posted by vorkanz View Post
 

What last do you guys think woud look best for a GG Balmoral boot with a double dainite sole with F-width?

 

DG70 smart rounded toe...

 

not sure about the double dainite though...Balmoral Boot is pretty dressy....double dainite is very country....

post #13117 of 21771
Single Dainite should look sleek enough to be dressy, no?

And has anyone seen this Thorpe MTO?



I'm toying with the idea of a Thorpe in Vintage Rioja hatch or highland grain. MH71 or GG06, not sure. Sexier than the Nevis for sure.
post #13118 of 21771
Single Dainite looks great on those.
Just FYI re rubber soles her are my Wells MH71 on Wensum rubber sole
post #13119 of 21771
Should all shoes in the same size have the same length? The reason I ask is because when i took out my Arran on MH71 for fall last week i tried it on i was thinking I had lots of toe space. I put them beside my Canterbury on DG70 and the Arran is much longer. Both should be UK8E, it says so on the shoe and box...

I wonder if G&G made my Arran on a UK8.5 last because the fit wider and the three piece shoetree doesn´t fit tight at all. Have the same type of tree in my Canterburys and have to apply some pressure to get the middle piece in.

Arran is with double dainite and Canterbury is with single leather sole.
post #13120 of 21771
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank the sheep View Post

Should all shoes in the same size have the same length? The reason I ask is because when i took out my Arran on MH71 for fall last week i tried it on i was thinking I had lots of toe space. I put them beside my Canterbury on DG70 and the Arran is much longer. Both should be UK8E, it says so on the shoe and box...

I wonder if G&G made my Arran on a UK8.5 last because the fit wider and the three piece shoetree doesn´t fit tight at all. Have the same type of tree in my Canterburys and have to apply some pressure to get the middle piece in.

Given any two models...even from the same company...lasts lengths, and widths as well, can be, and often are, different.

Toe and forepart shapes can affect the overall length of the last. The critical issue...and the one that affects sizing reliability the most...is the heel to ball length.

And yes, a wider last can be slightly longer...but only slightly--you probably wouldn't even notice it unless you were comparing an A width to an E. But as a general rule, length grades up one-twenty-fourth of an inch PER WIDTH.

In standard sizing...which isn't necessary adhered to religiously regardless the size designated...lasts grade up roughly one-third of an inch in length. I'd have to check my notes but width gradations are three-sixteenths of an inch, IIRC. So the difference between an 8 and an 8.5 is one-sixth of an inch in length and 'not-a-lot' in width. (Girths are another matter.)

(Edited to correct increments.)

--
Edited by DWFII - 10/6/14 at 7:46am
post #13121 of 21771
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post

In any given model, lasts lengths (and widths as well)...even from the same company...can be, and almost always are, different.

Toe and forepart shapes can affect the overall length of the last. The critical issue...and the one that affects sizing reliability the most...is the heel to ball length.

And yes, a wider last can be slightly longer...but only slightly--you probably wouldn't even notice it unless you were comparing an A width to an E. But as a general rule, length grades up one-twenty-fourth of an inch PER WIDTH.

In standard sizing...which isn't necessary adhered to religiously regardless the size designated...lasts grade up roughly one-third of an inch in length. I'd have to check my notes but width gradations are three-sixteenths of an inch (?) IIRC. So the difference be tween a n 8 and an 8.5 is one-sixth of an inch in length and 'not-a-lot' in width. (Girths are another matter.)

(Edited to correct increments.)

--

We don't see eye to eye on a certain other thread but I always appreciate the good information that you provide to SF memebers in threads outside of that one. This comment in particular is helpful to those that don't realize these things, as understanding the last and it's variations can be a tricky concept for some to grasp... have to memorize that 1/20th of an inch in length per width....that I did not know as a factual measurement but of course understood the concept that as you add to the outside, the line must follow all of the way around the last (if only slightly)...
post #13122 of 21771
Quote:
Originally Posted by Handmadeshoes View Post

We don't see eye to eye on a certain other thread but I always appreciate the good information that you provide to SF memebers in threads outside of that one. This comment in particular is helpful to those that don't realize these things, as understanding the last and it's variations can be a tricky concept for some to grasp... have to memorize that 1/20th of an inch in length per width....that I did not know as a factual measurement but of course understood the concept that as you add to the outside, the line must follow all of the way around the last (if only slightly)...

It's not necessary that we agree on everything. You have your POV, I have mine. I doubt that they will ever mesh perfectly, but at least you've earned and paid for your perspective.

Beyond that...one small correction: it's not "1/20th of an inch" it's 1/24th of an inch. Sorry if I didn't make that clear.

I have been dealing directly with lastmakers and modelmakers for most of my career. I got that information from Bill Tippit who was a protege' of Wilson Schraeder (before Wilson passed), and who started and owned The Last Word and Global Footwear Solutions, before moving on to Nike.

--
post #13123 of 21771
Quote:
Originally Posted by sacafotos View Post

Single Dainite should look sleek enough to be dressy, no?



.

 



Absolutely. And a very practical choice if you want all-weather wearability.
post #13124 of 21771
Quote:
Originally Posted by PCK1 View Post

DG70 smart rounded toe...

not sure about the double dainite though...Balmoral Boot is pretty dressy....double dainite is very country....

It's already F width. DG70 could be disastrous if he needs toe room on top of the extra girth and ball width.

No shoe last design is more hideous than a wide girth combined with a sleek pointed toe.
post #13125 of 21771
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank the sheep View Post

Should all shoes in the same size have the same length? The reason I ask is because when i took out my Arran on MH71 for fall last week i tried it on i was thinking I had lots of toe space. I put them beside my Canterbury on DG70 and the Arran is much longer. Both should be UK8E, it says so on the shoe and box...

I wonder if G&G made my Arran on a UK8.5 last because the fit wider and the three piece shoetree doesn´t fit tight at all. Have the same type of tree in my Canterburys and have to apply some pressure to get the middle piece in.

Arran is with double dainite and Canterbury is with single leather sole.

Since 3pc shoe trees are mentioned. Are the Arran suede? And pre-2010 G&G made by Alfred Sargent?

Also, since 3pc shoe tree is lasted, it would of course feel tight to squeeze the wider soft square last into a narrower pointed round toe shoes even at the same length.
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Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Thread (including reviews, purchases, pictures, etc...)