Recent Images In This Thread
Related Forum Threads
- Saint Crispin Leathersoul 401 Utility Balmoral Boot Brown Calfskin Suede UK6 US7 Last post on 8/31/15 at 10:44am in Classic Menswear Classifieds
- Gaziano & Girling St James II Cedar/Kudu GMTO Last post on 11/9/15 at 6:58pm in Preorders, Group Made-to-order, trunk shows, and other collaborative efforts
- Classic Menswear Lounge Last post on Yesterday at 10:38 pm in Classic Menswear
- HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014) Last post on Today at 4:02 am in Classic Menswear
- ALFRED SARGENT Appreciation: Handgrade, Exclusive, etc. Last post on Yesterday at 9:54 am in Classic Menswear
Allen Edmonds: Sizing Guide
Last edited: 4/29/16
- Alden Shoes Sizing Guide: 379X LastLast edited: 4/4/16
- Alden Shoes Sizing Guide: Hampton LastLast edited: 3/24/16
- Alden Shoes Sizing Guide: Leydon LastLast edited: 3/24/16
- Alden Shoes Sizing Guide: Van LastLast edited: 3/24/16
- Allen Edmonds
- The Armoury
- Batch Mens
- Craftsman Clothing
- David Fin
- Drinkwater's Cambridge
- Equus Leather
- Exquisite Trimmings
- Falcon Garments
- Freemans Sporting Club
- A Fine Pair of Shoes
- H. Stockton
- Gentlemen's Footwear
- The Hanger Project
- Henry Blake
- H.N. White
- House of Kydos
- John Elliott
- Kent Wang
- Khaki's of Carmel
- Luxire Custom Clothing
- Meermin Mallorca
- MILER Menswear
- Need Supply Co.
- No Man Walks Alone
- Pierpont Leather
- Portland Dry Goods
- Proper Cloth
- Ring Jacket
- S.E.H Kelly
- Self Edge
- Spier & Mackay
- Standard & Strange
- Suspension Point
- Taylor Stitch
- Uncle Otis
- Vanda Fine Clothing
- Virtual Clotheshorse
- Yellow Hook Necktie
- Your MadeInItaly
Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Thread (including reviews, purchases, pictures, etc...) - Page 74post #1096 of 217719/16/11 at 8:33ampost #1097 of 217719/16/11 at 8:49ampost #1098 of 217719/16/11 at 8:57amQuote:
Yeah, I was wondering that myself. I have a few pair made of bamboo...they don't squeak, however.
I guess it's not impossible but this is the first time I've ever heard of socks being the issue...if they are.
I wonder what the insole is or has been tanned with?post #1099 of 217719/16/11 at 9:04ampost #1100 of 217719/16/11 at 9:14ampost #1101 of 217719/16/11 at 10:43ampost #1102 of 217719/16/11 at 11:41ampost #1103 of 217719/16/11 at 11:44ampost #1104 of 217719/16/11 at 11:56ampost #1105 of 217719/16/11 at 12:01pmpost #1106 of 217719/16/11 at 9:40pmQuote:
I'm surprised you haven't gone bespoke. Once you go bespoke, you can't go back. Also if I were in Paris I would be curious to try Delos. Hint hint nudge nudge.
I find the GF1 pancake to be really fast. Do you need a stabilizer under good lighting?post #1107 of 217719/16/11 at 9:58pmQuote:
May I ask what's modified in terms of fit for your MTO orders?post #1108 of 217719/17/11 at 12:22amQuote:
I've been meaning to check out both Delos and Gomez and will get around to it at some point. But with G&G and StC modifying their lasts for what is already a very, very good fit (not to mention the finishing to bespoke standards) I think that full-on bespoke for my situation would be significantly diminished returns that I'm diverting elsewhere (e.g. Duret, Seraphin). The pancake lens works great for me outdoors or even indoors with natural light; I haven't yet mastered indoor lighting... I need to pick up Photography for Dummies during my next trip home.
More arch support both right and left, and tighter fit around the right heel.post #1109 of 217719/17/11 at 3:13amQuote:
If you don't mind my asking, how was that actually written up on your order sheet? I had a very similar issue when I got fitted by Dean last month. When I tried on the fitting pair the fit on the right was perfect but on the left I had some heel movement at the back of the show as I walked (the back of the shoe flapping around slightly) which was odd (to me) since based on Dean's measurements my left foot is half a size larger than my right foot so in theory the left should have been over-snug if anything and the right be the one most likely to have such issues.
Dean said it was probably due to arch differences and that he would make a mod on the left shoe to anchor my heel more firmly but when I looked at my blue copy of the G&G order slip the "Special Instructions" just say "1/8 heel lift - l/foot only". To my inexpert eye that doesn't really seem to tally with the discussion about arches but maybe it's just Dean's shorthand but I'm interested to know how your adjustments were specified.
If this spec is a simple raise of the left heel then I assume that such a heel lift is done inside the shoe rather than on the visible heel stack(*). I know that 1/8 inch is only about 3mm but it would still bug me a bit if that was done outside the shoe so that, when stood side by side on a flat surface, the top of the heel base was at a different level.
Oh, medtech_expat - I love both those shoes. I've saved your picture of the Cambridge on MH71 as inspiration for when I get to ordering a summer suede pair of shoes. I already have a Grant on TG73 on order. I'm not as brave as you though, I'm doing this very slowly and methodically. I've only ordered 1 pair right now to check fit and finish, then my next order will probably be 2 more pairs to check consistency of fit and finish, and then I'll let loose with orders for 3 or 4 pairs at a time. If things pan out as I hope then I plan to bin almost all of my existing shoe collection in favour of G&G. I'd guess from your user name that you're very familiar with dose titration; at least with the significant lead times on each order my approach does allow me to titrate up my spending in an orderly manner!
Which does bring me to one last question - what was the lead time on your first two pairs? Dean quoted me 4.5 months when I placed my order on 23rd August. Unfortunately 4.5 months from 23-Aug spans Christmas and New Year so I'm expecting more like 5 months unless they manage to bring the lead time down a bit and get it out before Christmas.
(*) Someone please feel free to correct my terminology here if it's wrong - I'm still learning.post #1110 of 217719/17/11 at 3:46am
Thanks for that Nick. The picture is most helpful, it is nice to see a picture that shows how toppy-ing the sole allows the fiddleback waist to be maintained. To my eyes at least, this seems a much better solution than going for a danite sole. Am I correct in assuming that the fiddleback is lost on all of the 4 alternative soles listed on the G&G MTO section or are some or all of them purely a sole treatment as in the picture above?
For me I love the two-tone oak bark sole so much that for now my plan is to stick with the standard construction and, if I feel that I have an issue (maybe because, as DWFII warned, the oak bark tanning uses synthetics so I don't get the hoped for "nap" on the sole) then my first experiment would be to "toppy" the heel only (i.e. put that toppy ridged rubber on just the heel lift) and take it from there. If I was to specify (or if not possible at production then retro-fit myself) a toppy sole then personally I would do the heel as well simply for aesthetics. When the standard oak bark sole has the leather colour at the front then the leather heel colour balances it, with just the middle section being black, but when the toppy on the sole turns the front all black I would blacken (by rubberising) the heel as well to give an all black look (as in the Deco) but that's just my aesthetic preference.
When I ordered my Grants I did have a conversation with Dean about whether to metal-cap the toe to protect against toe wear and whether there was anything that could be done to try and slow down the rate at which I wear down the back of my heels. In both cases we decided to stick with the standard sole & heel and address any issues, if they arise, via retrofit modifications so if I'm unhappy with the traction then I can start experimenting with solutions to that at the same time. I suspect it'll be fine, but it's very helpful to explore some options in advance.
By the way, was that toppy-ing on the Sinatra done at the factory or is it something that you (or a customer of yours) had done afterwards.
P.S. For what it's worth, I am already feeling guilty that I'm not placing orders through you! It's just that I live within easy reach of the Savile Row store and, while I'm experimenting with fit, it's nice to be able to consult directly with Dean or Tony when they are in residence so that they can offer opinions on the fit, plus I get to look at the shoes in real life before ordering. Once I get up and running then I might look at mail order, it seems clear from comments here that you're a class act, and G&G are very good at not undercutting their channel; the price I paid was identical to the MTO on your site (or it might even have been a few quid more, maybe because of the fit modification).
- Alden Shoes Sizing Guide: 379X Last
- › The official thrift/discount store bragging thread - Part II... 1 minute ago
- › Introduce yourself. 2 minutes ago
- › Academia, Democrats, and Thoughtcrime 2 minutes ago
- › Vintage Dress shoe appreciation, tips, maintenance and advice 4 minutes ago
- › Official Sales Alert thread 5 minutes ago
- › Show us how you roll in Engineered Garments 5 minutes ago
- › OFFICIAL President Trump Thread 7 minutes ago
- › The Matchbook Company Wallets 7 minutes ago
- › Oliver People's Finley (48-21) and 50s Browline (50-20) Eyeglasses 11 minutes ago
- › Gaziano Girling vintage oak Gable (MH71) UK9E 12 minutes ago
- › Alden #907 Straight Tip Bal Calfskin by smfdoc
- › Allen Edmonds Leeds 2.0 Derby Men's Shoes Size US 10 D Walnut... by Lobster33
- › Dr. Martens Unisex Original 10 Eye Steel Toe Boot by JC Echeverry
- › Chippewa Men's Super Logger Waterproof Boot by JC Echeverry
- › Mosey Life Working Girl Travel Laptop Tote by sprout2
- › Allen Cox Brief trunks by sprout2
- › Sutor Mantellassi Men's C 567 Oxford by sprout2
- › Alden Burgundy Shell Cordovan Longwing by smfdoc
- › Alden Black Shell Cordovan Plain Toe by smfdoc
- › Florsheim Vincent Wingtip Oxford by smfdoc
- › Fashion Forward brands that will be big in
- › Five Menswear Trends for Fall
- › Don’t “Just Buy a New One”,...
- › Why Pay Such A Premium For Sunspel Or James...
- › In the Details: Lucian Föhr
- › A Sunday Drive: Styleforum Spring GMTOs
- › Should I dryclean my jeans, and if not, how...
- › The 5 Most-Hyped Handbags of the Moment
- › Eight Vignettes in Search of a (Wedding) Theme
- › The Kent Wang Cufflink Giveaway