Originally Posted by bengal-stripe
In English shoemaking which aims for "West-End Standard" (the equivalent of "Savile Row Standard") a sanding wheel in shoemaking as well as in last making is simply not used by anyone. Were it to be used, it would not be West-End standards. Whether this fact is based on aiming for the best-possible quality or on fuddy-duddy-ism is neither here nor there. It is the choice of the leading West-End firms and thus should be respected. I have just mentioned it, to explain (at least in parts) the price difference between a factory and a bespoke shoe repair.
What about two of your personal bêtes noires
which a dedicated shoemaker like Anthony Delos also uses: wooden shanks and iron nails in the heels. Could it be that neither of those components materially affects the results? Or maybe even that Delos has come to the conclusion that these materials (which you consider to be a disaster) are his components of choice.
Janne Melkersson (a wise old bird that he is) once said: "There are as many ways of making a shoe as there are shoemakers". Sometimes it might pay to look over the edge of one's plate.
My problem with all of that is that sometimes people spend too much time looking at other people's plates. I respect Janne Melkerssohn although I disagree with him strongly for reasons I have articulated to him and more generally here. I respect Anthony Delos despite the fact that he is wrong and short-sighted, in my opinion, about using nails.
But both Delos and Melkerssohn have an objective basis upon which to make decisions. It is not idiot savant
repetition of something they have read or heard. They have an intimate personal knowledge of the mechanics of any technique and how it will affect shoe longevity, fit, function, etc.. For someone with no such experience or knowledge to be somewhat disingenuously asserting that the use of equipment such as a bank of sanding wheels is the mark of an inferior technique simply, again, betrays an ignorance that can never command respect. It is akin to "loose lips sink ships."
Whether West End makers eschew sanding wheels or not is almost beside the point if not wholly specious. They do use sandpaper...wrapped around wooden dowels and free form and in all manner of applications. Bottom line is that, again, when you get done sweeping up the scraps...or in this case, the dust...the results are identical.
I admire the West End standard immensely. But it is not the "be all and end all" you seem to think it is. Far more admirable, in my opinion, is any standard that both does
the work from beginning to end...personally.
In other words, as I alluded to in my previous post...I suspect it is easy to claim to work to a "no machine" standard, when someone else is doing the upper work. Or the bottoming work or any of it. This is what makes the factory mentality so reprehensible. All can claim credit (or disavow it) but no one claims responsibility.
I can, have, and am willing to articulate why I hold certain techniques in low regard. (and BTW, wooden pegs are not a bete noire of mine...I like pegs, use them every day). But I know...know
, in the gut, in the hands, in the heart...the mechanics and the consequences of those techniques. I challenge you or anyone else to similarly articulate a rationale for GY or for iron nails or even for hand sanding as opposed to power sanding. Aside from expediency, aside from profit.
And until you can and do I think you are talking through your...ahem...backside.
Unfortunately...sadly...one cannot "steal the thunder" of the gods by simply assuming their mantle. To speak with authority about shoemaking, you have to be a shoemaker.