or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Theard
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Theard - Page 230

post #3436 of 13437
LeJouvre: if you're willing to risk it, you can try resoling at some cordwainer's apprentice. This won't be as cheap as some local cobbler shop, but at least the apprentice will most likely know his/her methods.
post #3437 of 13437
a quick teaser pic.....
a8cc8fc4.jpg
post #3438 of 13437
Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post

The shoes will be returned to the same 'maker' who has made the shoes in the first place (presuming he still works for the company) and the job will be done entirely by hand (with no sanding wheels in sight).
.

I find this both incomprehensible and to some extent even hypocritical.

The substance, and more disingenuously, the implication that using sanding wheels is somehow inferior or declasse' is astounding especially coming from people who bridle at the suggestion that GY construction (entirely dependent on machine work) is flawed by comparison to hand welting.

The fact is...in shoemaking, in any Trade (as anyone who has ever worked with his hands will, if honest, tell you)...when the scraps are swept up if the results are the same or even (rarely ) objectively, better when using a machine there is no harm, no foul. Ultimately, a sewing machine is just a tool.

To the extent, in certain contexts, that the machine becomes such a dominant part of the process that the operator is no longer is required or able to affect the outcome, or bring any level of creativity to bear, yes, it is dehumanizing and ultimately produces unsatisfactory results.

But the object of any Trade/Craft is to produce the best product possible with the resources available. And it begins...unlike the factory context...with the assumption that that the human being is the ultimate, most adaptable, most creative, most precious resource.

It is foolish, in my opinion, to glorify makers or techniques simply for the sake of bragging rights--and, and more importantly, it betrays any real insights or intimate experience in the process.

Parenthetically...and just for perspective...what is not being said in much of this is that in many European countries...Hungary, England, come to mind, the most reknown shoemakers don't even make the entire shoe themselves. They "farm out" the uppers. So the assertion that no machines are used is really an exercise in denial. Because the uppers are almost certainly sewn on a machine...by someone else--as if the "maker" doesn't know how to do that work him/herself.

I don't personally have a problem with that as long as the maker or outworker is in control of the process and the results but I do find it a bit disturbing to mislead the public.

It is the objective, rational, mechanical results that count. In competent hands...the hands of a dedicated sheomaker such as Anthony Delos, for instance... sanding wheels will not materially affect the results.
post #3439 of 13437

Derek, even the dog wants you to open it now!

post #3440 of 13437
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sir F View Post

Derek, even the dog wants you to open it now!
0b71b215.jpg

forgot i didnt post a pic here hahaha.

Hoves on the DG70 last.
post #3441 of 13437
Quote:
Originally Posted by DerekS View Post


0b71b215.jpg
forgot i didnt post a pic here hahaha.
Hoves on the DG70 last.

Really nice, congrats hope you enjoy them!

post #3442 of 13437
Quote:
Originally Posted by DerekS View Post

0b71b215.jpg
forgot i didnt post a pic here hahaha.
Hoves on the DG70 last.

icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
post #3443 of 13437
Quote:
Originally Posted by DerekS View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
0b71b215.jpg
forgot i didnt post a pic here hahaha.
Hoves on the DG70 last.

let me take this opportunity to again say icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
post #3444 of 13437
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post

The substance, and more disingenuously, the implication that using sanding wheels is somehow inferior or declasse' is astounding especially coming from people who bridle at the suggestion that GY construction (entirely dependent on machine work) is flawed by comparison to hand welting.

In English shoemaking which aims for "West-End Standard" (the equivalent of "Savile Row Standard") a sanding wheel in shoemaking as well as in last making is simply not used by anyone. Were it to be used, it would not be West-End standards. Whether this fact is based on aiming for the best-possible quality or on fuddy-duddy-ism is neither here nor there. It is the choice of the leading West-End firms and thus should be respected. I have just mentioned it, to explain (at least in parts) the price difference between a factory and a bespoke shoe repair.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post

It is the objective, rational, mechanical results that count. In competent hands...the hands of a dedicated sheomaker such as Anthony Delos, for instance... sanding wheels will not materially affect the results.

What about two of your personal bêtes noires which a dedicated shoemaker like Anthony Delos also uses: wooden shanks and iron nails in the heels. Could it be that neither of those components materially affects the results? Or maybe even that Delos has come to the conclusion that these materials (which you consider to be a disaster) are his components of choice.

Janne Melkersson (a wise old bird that he is) once said: "There are as many ways of making a shoe as there are shoemakers". Sometimes it might pay to look over the edge of one's plate.
post #3445 of 13437

Today I'm wearing my "Grant" Vintage Oak TG73 6.5 F

 

Could do with a little touch up they are 2 years old now

 

IMG_0563.jpg

post #3446 of 13437
Quote:
Originally Posted by JonathanCWalker View Post

Today I'm wearing my "Grant" Vintage Oak TG73 6.5 F

 

Could do with a little touch up they are 2 years old now

 

IMG_0563.jpg

 

You need to make those as new man, shame to f*ck them up like that :(!

post #3447 of 13437
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sir F View Post

 

You need to make those as new man, shame to f*ck them up like that :(!

They will be getting a good polish next week

post #3448 of 13437
Quote:
Originally Posted by JonathanCWalker View Post

They will be getting a good polish next week

 

Great! Then we have a before and after picture biggrin.gif

post #3449 of 13437
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sir F View Post

 

Great! Then we have a before and after picture biggrin.gif

Very true.

 

Just ordered 4 MTO G&G's yesterday so when they eventually arrive in 5 months i'll post them up.

 

Whats in your collection Sir F? 

post #3450 of 13437
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quadcammer View Post


well, a new pair is more like double that, so not really a few bucks.
you could always try sending them to nick at b.nelson. they'll do a good job with quality products for less than $150


No, my St James, Cambridge, Sinatra and Grants all cost me above and below $800 each at full retail.

 

If these shoes need to be sent to b.nelson then you would not really refer to them as prestige and quality shoes now would you?

 

The point I was trying to make was a simple one, which is that the benefit of a quality shoe, as with any item which claims the status of "quality", is that ownership should accompany the knowledge that the item will endure in longevity without the added requirement of uneconomical maintenance.

 

Other than aesthetic value, economic longevity is part of the definition of the term "quality".

 

I have not returned my G&G for refurb yet, but I have returned my JL and EG numerous times already, and never have I paid that much for a refurb unless there was additional repair work required.

 

Hell, even lowly old Allen Edmonds will resole for a miserly $50.00. If G&G cost double the price, even triple, quadruple the price of Allen Edmonds, you still find it difficult to justify almost $500.00 for the same service.

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Theard