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Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Theard - Page 109

post #1621 of 13451
Quote:
Originally Posted by jhcam8 View Post

Steven at Leffot also has this opinion.

And PG loves beating the shit out of his suedes.

but shhh... dont say suede too much otherwise NOBD will show up.... smile.gif
post #1622 of 13451
Quote:
Originally Posted by jhcam8 View Post

+1 - Steven at Leffot also has this opinion.

i told him foo.gif
post #1623 of 13451
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post

Au contraire...

On the other hand, it's all relative, isn't it? I mean even the worst suede is probably stronger than paper.

i'm not a scientist, i'm a user.
post #1624 of 13451
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post

i'm not a scientist, i'm a user.

so you are...

more of a jesse
232

than a walt?
247
post #1625 of 13451
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post

i'm not a scientist, i'm a user.

270
post #1626 of 13451
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

so you are...
more of a jesse
232
than a walt?
247

i know neither, but the answer is: yes.
post #1627 of 13451
Quote:
Originally Posted by rsharp00 View Post

Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by rsharp00
General question - I'm a noob so this'll probably sound dumb - but if I can only afford one pair of G&G, is it a waste to have them made-up in suede? I wear jeans more often than not, and I'm in Texas where the weather won't destroy suede.
As opposed to what? I mean, what suede shoes would you buy instead?
Sorry - I simply meant if I'm limited to one pair of G&G should I go the calf or pigskin route as opposed to suede. I'd originally wanted shell, but Tony explained how they have a hard time finding shell which meets their high standards. I've never paid $1200 for a pair of shoes, so I was just seeking advice from those of you who have experience with these kinds of purchases - wondering if down the line I'd regret going with suede.

Personally, I would go with calf if I'm going to be limited to only one pair of high end shoes. I just find calf to be a little more versatile than suede in terms of what I like to wear it with, and if I have only one pair of G&G, I'm going to want to be able to wear it with as many different things as possible.

Also, the fact that you seem to second-guessing your initial inclination this much already suggests to me that you will regret going with suede, my own tastes notwithstanding.
post #1628 of 13451
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post

i know neither, but the answer is: yes.

i thought as much. they are characters from a tv show called breaking bad about a HS teacher turned master meth cooker and his drop out user partner.
post #1629 of 13451
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post

i'm not a scientist, i'm a user.

That's the difference...

In the first place, the word "delicate" can mean a lot of things--including tensile (rip) strength, surface density, even the permanence of finish. And it can mean one thing to the maker and another to the user.

As a shoemaker, I think in terms of tensile strength first because it not only affects how the shoe is made but how long and well it will wear.

I think of the density...the durability of the grain surface second, but again only because it will affect the appearance given more or less time. It might be remarked that one of the more durable finishes is...wait for it...corrected grain. (even if the underlying leather is crap)

As for the finish, I only worry about it when I am working the leather--with some leathers even the base colour can be fragile and fugitive. This is something I will, and should, evaluate before I start cutting or making. [ I am not particularly enamored of finishes that are applied after the fact. Unless done very well they look phoney to me and have no real logic as to how they are applied or what they are purportedly representing.]

The user seldom sees or considers any of this and as a result his/her understanding is not only incomplete it is superficial.

All that said, I'm not a scientist either...I'm just interested at a level that some cannot muster and prefer to rely on logic and experience than half-baked opinions.
Edited by DWFII - 10/25/11 at 12:21pm
post #1630 of 13451
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

i thought as much. they are characters from a tv show called breaking bad about a HS teacher turned master meth cooker and his drop out user partner.

well played cheeky monkey
post #1631 of 13451
Quote:
Originally Posted by rsharp00 View Post

Wow - what an unbelievable wealth of knowledge. Can't tell you how much I appreciate everyone's input. Thanks for the help. I think I've decided on the Windsor in Vintage Chestnut. If Tony can find a last, that is. I have huge feet (UK12.5), and he seemed uncertain about if they had an existing last that would work. Cross my fingers, I guess. Thanks again guys.

G&G sizes go up to 13.
post #1632 of 13451
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

i have, but my wife is too perceptive. she notices every time i wear something new. ties, shoes, shirts...you name it.

Same with me...all significant purchases must be vetted first. It's the price we pay for being married to incredible ladies.
post #1633 of 13451
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post

That's the difference...
In the first place, the word "delicate" can mean a lot of things--including tensile (rip) strength, surface density, even the permanence of finish. And it can mean one thing to the maker and another to the user.
As a shoemaker, I think in terms of tensile strength first because it not only affects how the shoe is made but how long and well it will wear.
I think of the density...the durability of the grain surface second, but again only because it will affect the appearance given more or less time. It might be remarked that one of the more durable finishes is...wait for it...corrected grain. (even if the underlying leather is crap)
As for the finish, I only worry about it when I am working the leather--with some leathers even the base colour can be fragile and fugitive. This is something I will, and should, evaluate before I start cutting or making. [ I am not particularly enamored of finishes that are applied after the fact. Unless done very well they look phoney to me and have no real logic as to how they are applied or what they are purportedly representing.]
The user seldom sees or considers any of this and as a result his/her understanding is not only incomplete it is superficial.
All that said, I'm not a scientist either...I'm just interested at a level that some cannot muster and prefer to rely on logic and experience than half-baked opinions.

But haven't you said that you consider Delos one of the best? All of his finishes look mostly just like mirror finishes. Is this what you mean by "applied after the fact"?
post #1634 of 13451
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post

well played cheeky monkey

smile.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Christopher Essex View Post

Same with me...all significant purchases must be vetted first. It's the price we pay for being married to incredible ladies.

nod[1].gif
post #1635 of 13451
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

But haven't you said that you consider Delos one of the best? All of his finishes look mostly just like mirror finishes. Is this what you mean by "applied after the fact"?

Yes, but consistent with what I said above, I'm looking at Delos' workmanship long before I'm looking at his finish.

That said, it's the antiquing that I'm talking about more than any simple spitshine. For the most part what I've seen is more like random splotches than any reasonable facsimile of the patina that would naturally arise from long and loving use.

What's more such finishes are not only hard for the end-user to maintain...another form of delicacy...they're often impossible to actually duplicate once lost.

They cover up the leather in the same way that rouge and pancake cover the skin of a woman--it's make-up. And to a very real degree obscures the natural beauty of a piece of leather.

I'm not totally against after-the-fact finishes, they're simply low on my list of indicators of quality.

The user can be focused on superficialities (all too often to the point of obsession) in a way that the maker cannot afford to be. The maker has to deal with substance.
Edited by DWFII - 10/25/11 at 3:44pm
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