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Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Theard - Page 93

post #1381 of 13260
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gdot View Post

Since we seem to be in all talk and no photo mode here.
I have a pair of Dub Monks arriving this week.........in Cherry.
They're just RTW from the Bespoke site, nothing custom.
I hope they are as vulgar as I believe they'll be.

dont say "just" mr dot. "just" and G&G dont jive my brotha. im sure they are more disgusting than you can imagine. i look forward to pics. smile.gif
post #1382 of 13260
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post

I'd like to see shot of this shoe from the side and from the bottom...please.

Here is a side-view: Whole-cut Chelsea boot.

BurnhamSideB.jpg

taken from: http://gazianogirling.com/
post #1383 of 13260
Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post

Here is a side-view: Whole-cut Chelsea boot.
BurnhamSideB.jpg
taken from: http://gazianogirling.com/

Bengal,

Thanks! I'm going to have to figure out how to cut that pattern and the shape/size of the crimping board. I think it is one of the most elegant of shoes.

Not many people know this but "Congress" boots (very similar), made with elastic, go back to the mid 19th century.
post #1384 of 13260
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post

Bengal,
Thanks! I'm going to have to figure out how to cut that pattern and the shape/size of the crimping board. I think it is one of the most elegant of shoes.
Not many people know this but "Congress" boots (very similar), made with elastic, go back to the mid 19th century.

That Chelsea boot looks like a sleeker more British 60s version of the classic RMW.
post #1385 of 13260
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post


Not many people know this but "Congress" boots (very similar), made with elastic, go back to the mid 19th century.

I've never heard the term “Congress" boots (maybe an Americanism).

J.Sparkes Hall of Regent Street London is credited with the invention of the side-elastic boot. sometime in the 1840s.(the advert is from 1852). It must have needed the invention of fabric woven from rubber-threads, which must have been a novelty back then.

Im1852POLon-Sparkes.jpg

JSparkesHall.jpg

In Victorian times, this style of boot was known as the “Elasticated Jemiah” (not sure about the spelling).
The low (shoe version) is traditionally known in England as a “Cambridge" shoe.

To quote Sir Michael Caine's immortal words: "Not many people know this".
post #1386 of 13260
Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post

I've never heard the term “Congress" boots (maybe an Americanism).

I suppose. I've got an old catalogue or two somewhere in the shop...I'll see if I can run it down.
post #1387 of 13260
Bengal,

Here you go...

Early 20th century (19 "aughts")--Higgins Leather Company, St. Louis, Missouri:

169

117

Russia Calf was selling in three colours for $0.30 a sq. ft. and "Extra Quality Porpoise" leather shoe laces for $0.50 a dozen.
post #1388 of 13260
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lear View Post

Pics of the G&G Burnham please worship2.gif

350
350
Reply
Reply
post #1389 of 13260
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post

Bengal,
Thanks! I'm going to have to figure out how to cut that pattern and the shape/size of the crimping board. I think it is one of the most elegant of shoes.

Once you've worked that out, you can charge a premium:
Quote:
Seamless, cut all in one piece, backseam only.........extra $ 0.50

So, please no more than today's price of a dozen (pairs?) "Extra Quality Porpoise" leather shoe laces! biggrin.gif
post #1390 of 13260
Quote:
Originally Posted by JulianL View Post


Ultimately it's all personal opinion and sometimes it's really hard to explain objectively why one style does it for a particular person and another doesn't.
- Julian

very true
post #1391 of 13260
Damn that is one beautiful boot! Does anyone else besides G&G offer wholecut boots? I can't call to mind any.

DWFII, what's your take on the level of expertise and time these wholecut boots would require to make?
post #1392 of 13260
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leather man View Post

I understand what you are saying but don't agree. Those double monks are of a classic style. G&G do offer a double monk through Bespoke England where both straps sweep away from the vamp - and you may prefer that model. My three pairs of Church's double monks have the top strap sweeping away but the bottom strap descending in a straight line.
As for the "Lazyman slip-ons" its another classic style which George Cleverley also offer called the "Churchill" since he reputedly loved this style of shoe. In fact I've never been tempted by this style before but I am mightly tempted by the one with the plain toe in vintage cedar.

smokin crack?
post #1393 of 13260
Quote:
Originally Posted by VRaivio View Post

Damn that is one beautiful boot! Does anyone else besides G&G offer wholecut boots? I can't call to mind.

R M Williams and J M Weston produce all their side-elastic boots as whole-cuts:
.
rmwboots.gif

http://www.rmwilliams.com.au/springsummer2012/index.html

2011-08-21_1303.png

http://www.jmweston.com/home.html?#en/1-1/-1

The J M Weston boots are even blocked/crimped by hand. I've seen a video from the factory
and I was quite surprised, seeing a worker pulling the damp leather over a blocking/crimping board.
post #1394 of 13260
Quote:
Originally Posted by VRaivio View Post

Damn that is one beautiful boot! Does anyone else besides G&G offer wholecut boots? I can't call to mind any.

DWFII, what's your take on the level of expertise and time these wholecut boots would require to make?

R.M Williams are famous for their wholecut Chelsea boot, and Baxter Boots offer wholecuts aswell. I'm not sure about makers in America and ENgland, but those are two well known Australian brands.
post #1395 of 13260
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pliny View Post

smokin crack?

i always thought of him as a funny guy, quasi.
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