When I spoke to Daniel Wegan last time during the trunk show, he mentioned GG does not like Horween shell because they couldn't get a consistent color and smoothness, and since they're a small shell player, they couldn't get the best pieces (and therefore quality control is an issue.) I'm guessing with Ilcea getting out of sorts, etc (and GG is not a big museum calf user either) they probably will have difficulty sourcing them reliably as well. I guess they prefer working with reliable suppliers where they can control the quality. Nonetheless, I'll ask anyways...
Ilcea is back in business again, so that wouldn't be a problem.
Hehe G&G doesn't go well with Horween, they're not that keen on the fact that they need to strip down and redo the color on all hatch grain leathers as well.
A manufacturer of anything can (and will) not offer every component/material that is available from suppliers worldwide
'Museum calf' is a leather that has been antiqued and finished on the hide, taking out the risk you do have when working with (unfinished) crust leather. With crust leather, there is always the danger that certain sections might not respond to dye/finish as you hope they would, throwing up unexpected blemishes. G&G (and Edward Green) do work extensively in crust; JL(Northampton) does not use crust at all, neither does Vass.
G&G has recently employed Thomas Brunschwig (ex-Corthay) to run the Savile Row store. Thomas is an expert patiniseur (is that the right word?) and can achieve any effect desired. I believe, G&G will soon be offering a patina service on request. So they can be far more flexible to individual wishes (just like Berluti), than if they were to use 'Museum calf', or a similar product from another tannery.
Yeah it's great with Thomas, he does some beautiful work!