or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Theard
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Theard - Page 789

post #11821 of 13281
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoGent View Post

   I hope you ordered it as you had it mocked up. That was such a great look with the hatchgrain
Ended up picking the oak calf instead. I didn't like the feel of the hatch grain in person. Would be willing to use hatch as a combo for the Oakham though...
post #11822 of 13281
Quote:
Originally Posted by JubeiSpiegel View Post


Ended up picking the oak calf instead. I didn't like the feel of the hatch grain in person. Would be willing to use hatch as a combo for the Oakham though...

 

   I don't have any hatch yet only one with some hatch accent

   if I EVER get the hove, it's going to be your rendering

post #11823 of 13281
Anyone knows if GG is willing to do an MTO make up w/ museum calf?
post #11824 of 13281
Quote:
Originally Posted by agedashidofu View Post

Anyone knows if GG is willing to do an MTO make up w/ museum calf?

 

Tony is not a fan of that leather at all, so probably not.

post #11825 of 13281
Quote:
Originally Posted by JubeiSpiegel View Post

In any case, how is everyone post the GG policy / price changes?

As I think you saw, I went the St.Crispins route. As a wide footed gent myself it was just too difficult back ordering pairs in my size and waiting open endedly for them to come, only to discover quality control errors that require them to go back to the factory for another open ended period of time....

Unfortunately there is a huge difference between buying a standard size off the shelf, where you can just focus on what style you want, vs. trying to buy for size and only THEN thinking about what styles are available in it.
post #11826 of 13281
Ow, I understand completely. I plan to educate myself on my sizing in EG, JL, and the St. C customization option next time I go to NY. Later this year for sure. GG has me at the moment as my only well fitting option, which is ok for right now, but I would like other alternatives. Preferably in a lower price point, so I can knock out some staples...
post #11827 of 13281
Quote:
Originally Posted by j ingevaldsson View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by agedashidofu View Post

Anyone knows if GG is willing to do an MTO make up w/ museum calf?

Tony is not a fan of that leather at all, so probably not.

Just wondering what is his reason?
post #11828 of 13281
Quote:
Originally Posted by wurger View Post

Just wondering what is his reason?

He thinks that the tanning process is too hard on the leathers. I've heard that from others as well about "museum calf"-tanning, as well as many industry people stating the opposite. Personally I like museum calf, the few I've gotten all have been of great quality, and I've seen pairs with 10+ years behind them holding up well, so I'm not too concerned.
post #11829 of 13281
Thanks for the explanation.
post #11830 of 13281
Quote:
Originally Posted by j ingevaldsson View Post

He thinks that the tanning process is too hard on the leathers. I've heard that from others as well about "museum calf"-tanning, as well as many industry people stating the opposite. Personally I like museum calf, the few I've gotten all have been of great quality, and I've seen pairs with 10+ years behind them holding up well, so I'm not too concerned.

Sounds like marketing to me; it's just a different dying method but the tanning and finishing are not anything out of ordinary. Compare to dying, tanning is much harsher and using glass roller to beat on leather over and over isn't anything mild either.
post #11831 of 13281
Quote:
Originally Posted by chogall View Post


Sounds like marketing to me; it's just a different dying method but the tanning and finishing are not anything out of ordinary. Compare to dying, tanning is much harsher and using glass roller to beat on leather over and over isn't anything mild either.

 

Yes, quite possible. (And yes, meant that he thinks that the dying process is too hard on the leathers, not tanning.)

post #11832 of 13281
Quote:
Originally Posted by j ingevaldsson View Post

He thinks that the tanning process is too hard on the leathers. I've heard that from others as well about "museum calf"-tanning, as well as many industry people stating the opposite. Personally I like museum calf, the few I've gotten all have been of great quality, and I've seen pairs with 10+ years behind them holding up well, so I'm not too concerned.

When I spoke to Daniel Wegan last time during the trunk show, he mentioned GG does not like Horween shell because they couldn't get a consistent color and smoothness, and since they're a small shell player, they couldn't get the best pieces (and therefore quality control is an issue.) I'm guessing with Ilcea getting out of sorts, etc (and GG is not a big museum calf user either) they probably will have difficulty sourcing them reliably as well. I guess they prefer working with reliable suppliers where they can control the quality. Nonetheless, I'll ask anyways...
post #11833 of 13281
Quote:
Originally Posted by j ingevaldsson View Post

Tony is not a fan of that leather at all, so probably not.

A manufacturer of anything can (and will) not offer every component/material that is available from suppliers worldwide

'Museum calf' is a leather that has been antiqued and finished on the hide, taking out the risk you do have when working with (unfinished) crust leather. With crust leather, there is always the danger that certain sections might not respond to dye/finish as you hope they would, throwing up unexpected blemishes. G&G (and Edward Green) do work extensively in crust; JL(Northampton) does not use crust at all, neither does Vass.

G&G has recently employed Thomas Brunschwig (ex-Corthay) to run the Savile Row store. Thomas is an expert patiniseur (is that the right word?) and can achieve any effect desired. I believe, G&G will soon be offering a patina service on request. So they can be far more flexible to individual wishes (just like Berluti), than if they were to use 'Museum calf', or a similar product from another tannery.
post #11834 of 13281
Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post



G&G has recently employed Thomas Brunschwig (ex-Corthay) to run the Savile Row store. Thomas is an expert patiniseur (is that the right word?) and can achieve any effect desired. I believe, G&G will soon be offering a patina service on request. So they can be far more flexible to individual wishes (just like Berluti), than if they were to use 'Museum calf', or a similar product from another tannery.

Very very interesting.
Me wonder if they will antique other brand also on request.
post #11835 of 13281
Quote:
Originally Posted by Son Of Saphir View Post


Very very interesting.
Me wonder if they will antique other brand also on request.

I doubt they will, can't see any reason why they would. 

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Theard