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Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Theard - Page 680

post #10186 of 13248
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

in case anyone is on the fence about buying GGs from nick, let me just say....


  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

WOW! Speechless.

post #10187 of 13248
Quote:
Originally Posted by sdolina View Post

WOW! Speechless.


smile.gif

thanks. i spend most of the day ogling them every time i wear them. hard to get work done.
post #10188 of 13248
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

smile.gif

thanks. i spend most of the day ogling them every time i wear them. hard to get work done.
They could use a little polish though.

I kid... smile.gif
post #10189 of 13248
Quote:
Originally Posted by chogall View Post

Saint Crispins does channeled sole by hand.

Absolutely, and a bunch of other ones as well like Vass and Paolo Scafora for example. But like I wrote, it's not that common, the machine way is most used.
post #10190 of 13248
Quote:
Originally Posted by JubeiSpiegel View Post

They could use a little polish though.

I kid... smile.gif

ffffuuuu.gif


smile.gif
post #10191 of 13248
Quote: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Originally Posted by bamboo View Post
 
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bamboo View Post

Very interesting reading. I found the part about new line's construction method particularly interesting. The method is described as somewhere between traditional hand sewn and GY and the same as StC, Meermin, Enzo Bonafe.  I read about Carmina uses the method without gemming but use the machine to sew, so I presume this is the way they are talking about.  
 

JM Weston also employs a GY method without gemming (at least for their Golf model)

 

I remember I saw picture of GOLF being stripped apart.  Did you make a translation of Men'EX of the article and post here?   If so could you tell me the link?

I cannot find it anymore.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bamboo View Post

I remember I saw picture of GOLF being stripped apart.  Did you make a translation of Men'EX of the article and post here?   If so could you tell me the link?
I cannot find it anymore.
 

Here you go. Near the bottom of the first post smile.gif
btw there is also a picture of G&G being stripped apart, if anyone is interested.

http://www.styleforum.net/t/257855/mens-ex-scanlations-by-nutcracker-shoe-related-articles-only#post_4702402

 

Thank you!  So white tape seen is probably for protection of the cut feather not a rib itself.  I got a picture of 180 stripped apart and it looks the same.

 

Quote: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bamboo View Post





Photo taken from Trading Post website.   I think the machine is cutting feather. 

That is the sole-stitcher, attaching the outer-sole to the welt.

A flap has been cut previously into the sole and is now folded up, as not to get caught in the stitching. Once the stitching is finished, the flap is folded back again and glued into place. So the row of stitching cannot be seen on the finished sole.

 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bamboo View Post

 I thought Carmina and Meermin are owned by the same company so I was assuming they use the same method. 
 

Carmina and Meermin are run by different branches of the same (divided) family (Albaladejo), who (for historical reasons) appear not to be too fond of each other. A bit like Puma and Addidas: same family (brothers) but fierce rivals in business.

http://features.blogs.fortune.cnn.com/2013/03/22/the-hatred-and-bitterness-behind-two-of-the-worlds-most-popular-brands/

 

Thank you for your reply.  Now I see what the machine is doing.  I misunderstood the caption of their blog.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by j ingevaldsson View Post Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Quote:
Originally Posted by bamboo View Post

Thank you for your reply.  I read about Carmina using the method in Japanese shoe shop website.




Photo taken from Trading Post website.   I think the machine is cutting feather.   I thought Carmina and Meermin are owned by the same company so I was assuming they use the same method.  Thank you again for sharing information, your blog is extremely informative.
 

Like Bengal already described above, that is the channel for the sole stitch. Probably you've read about the machine cutting up the flap channel, which is pretty expensive, and probably both Carmina and Meermin use it, and many other brands as well. Some cut the channel by hand, but it's not that common when it comes to RTW. Thanks for your kind words about the blog!

Thanks again.  I am looking forward seeing new GG line.  

post #10192 of 13248
My apologies for the sartorially frowned upon combo, but i thought the toe bleaching complimented nicely:

post #10193 of 13248
Jubei - very handsome!
Quote:
Originally Posted by NAMOR View Post

my next question was how effective are they in snow and ice. please let us know!

No winter report yet - thank heavens - but I can report that they performed very well in the wet. One of the challenges of my morning commute in inclement weather is the slick and slippery wet marble floors and stairs of the two train stations in question. Wet leather soles on these surfaces require that I tread with absolute caution. The synthetic soles of the Wigmores gripped very well indeed.
post #10194 of 13248
JubeiSpiegel - whats wrong with the combo? looks great too me.

here is my action shot of the day. smile.gif

post #10195 of 13248
^
Those are some clean creases Stitchy, very nice.

Regarding your question, I know SF doesn't care for black shoes w/ country colors. I thought I should state that caveat, even though I liked it...
post #10196 of 13248
thanks, man!

OIC. they look to have a tinge of brown in the pic. looks great either way.
post #10197 of 13248
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

JubeiSpiegel - whats wrong with the combo? looks great too me.

here is my action shot of the day. smile.gif

 

My, grandpa stitchy, how straight your legs (or at least your pant legs) are!

 

stitchy: The better to........(fill in blank here).... my dear....  :D

post #10198 of 13248
Quote:
Originally Posted by no frills View Post

My, grandpa stitchy, how straight your legs (or at least your pant legs) are!
stitchy: The better to........(fill in blank here).... my dear....  biggrin.gif

lol8[1].gif why thanks for noticing.
post #10199 of 13248
Can't believe I forgot to post this.

Cheap G&G for RLPL at the Harry Rosen outlet. They're $699 but there's a $50 off promo right now.

They have the slip-on wingtip model. Some shop wear, so be prepared for some polishing.
post #10200 of 13248
Quote:
Originally Posted by JubeiSpiegel View Post

I saw that, good promotion. Might have to accelerate that other MTO idea I had...

"Oundle" ?
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