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Gaziano & Girling Appreciation & Shoe Appreciation Theard - Page 679

post #10171 of 13089
Nick is running a promotion again at BE now, complimentary shoe trees and free shipping for all MTO and RTW, time to open our wallets again!
post #10172 of 13089
I saw that, good promotion. Might have to accelerate that other MTO idea I had...
post #10173 of 13089
^^ what's your idea?
post #10174 of 13089
ZOMG BUY MOAR GGs FROM NICK!!!!
post #10175 of 13089

Does anyone know what number on Savile Row the new dedicated shop is going to be at? I know the new store isn't open yet and G&G are still in the basement of number 12 at the moment but I'm going to be walking down Savile Row on Thursday and I was curious to see which unit they will be moving into and whether there is any signage or shop fitting going on yet.

 

- Julian

post #10176 of 13089
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bamboo View Post

Very interesting reading. I found the part about new line's construction method particularly interesting. The method is described as somewhere between traditional hand sewn and GY and the same as StC, Meermin, Enzo Bonafe.  I read about Carmina uses the method without gemming but use the machine to sew, so I presume this is the way they are talking about.  
 

JM Weston also employs a GY method without gemming (at least for their Golf model)

 

I remember I saw picture of GOLF being stripped apart.  Did you make a translation of Men'EX of the article and post here?   If so could you tell me the link?

I cannot find it anymore.

post #10177 of 13089
Quote: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Originally Posted by j ingevaldsson View Post

Thank you everyone for all your kind words!
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by wurger View Post

Great write up and photos, from the translation, so G&G's vendor will be only Bespoke England? So no more supplied to Bodileys and EoM etc?

Yes, as I have understood it BE will be the only retailer in the UK, except themselves in their London shop and on their online shop.
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JubeiSpiegel View Post

Fantastic!

As an awesome personal sidenote, one of your pics showcases my current concept MTO pair, you can all thank me later.

They look great, thank you for that pic... smile.gif

Ah, so you are the one who did the Galway version? Looks great, will probably be many people happy for being able to order a G&G version of that boot.
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post

Nice article, indeed!
I had to laugh out loud about this sentence in English translation:
It might be different in Swedish, but in English "the smallest room" means only one room: the toilet!
My commiserations to poor Daniel, who has to work in the loo. biggrin.gif

Haha, no, doesn't mean the same thing in Swedish.
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bamboo View Post

Very interesting reading. I found the part about new line's construction method particularly interesting. The method is described as somewhere between traditional hand sewn and GY and the same as StC, Meermin, Enzo Bonafe.  I read about Carmina uses the method without gemming but use the machine to sew, so I presume this is the way they are talking about.  
Quote:
Originally Posted by nutcracker View Post

JM Weston also employs a GY method without gemming (at least for their Golf model)
 

No, this is two different things. The JM Weston version of Goodyear welting (and maybe Carmina also then, haven't heard about this, they do use traditional gemming as a standard afaik) is with a lip cut out from a leather sole, instead of glueing on a canvas strip like with gemming, but they do use a Goodyear machine to sew the welt stitch. The reason many don't use this method is because of problems to get the leather lip to handle the heavy machine stitches, a canvas rib is harder and easier to sew in.

But the hand welting that G&G will use, and that SC, bonafe and Meermin use, is real hand sewn welt stitching. But instead of carving the lip/holdfast/feather out from a thicker leather insole, you order special insoles where the lip has already been carved out. That lip is a bit higher and not as sturdy as the hand cut out lip used in traditional hand welting, but a good alternative which makes the process faster and therefore cheaper.
 
 
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by chogall View Post

Well, hopefully the new construction method will be price competitive to at least Saint Crispins.

But with machine sewn outsole, they cannot do a closed waist similar to bespoke and pegged waist construction...

Their aim is to keep pricing not far from the Deco line, they don't want the prices to run away too much. If this means that they'll skip the spade soles or something, I don't know, and probably they don't either yet. Like I wrote, the plans are still at an early stage.

 

 

Thank you for your reply.  I read about Carmina using the method in Japanese shoe shop website.

 

 

Photo taken from Trading Post website.   I think the machine is cutting feather.   I thought Carmina and Meermin are owned by the same company so I was assuming they use the same method.  Thank you again for sharing information, your blog is extremely informative.

post #10178 of 13089
Quote:
Originally Posted by bamboo View Post

I remember I saw picture of GOLF being stripped apart.  Did you make a translation of Men'EX of the article and post here?   If so could you tell me the link?
I cannot find it anymore.

Here you go. Near the bottom of the first post smile.gif
btw there is also a picture of G&G being stripped apart, if anyone is interested.

http://www.styleforum.net/t/257855/mens-ex-scanlations-by-nutcracker-shoe-related-articles-only#post_4702402
post #10179 of 13089
Quote:
Originally Posted by bamboo View Post





Photo taken from Trading Post website.   I think the machine is cutting feather. 

That is the sole-stitcher, attaching the outer-sole to the welt.

A flap has been cut previously into the sole and is now folded up, as not to get caught in the stitching. Once the stitching is finished, the flap is folded back again and glued into place. So the row of stitching cannot be seen on the finished sole.


Quote:
Originally Posted by bamboo View Post

 I thought Carmina and Meermin are owned by the same company so I was assuming they use the same method. 

Carmina and Meermin are run by different branches of the same (divided) family (Albaladejo), who (for historical reasons) appear not to be too fond of each other. A bit like Puma and Addidas: same family (brothers) but fierce rivals in business.

http://features.blogs.fortune.cnn.com/2013/03/22/the-hatred-and-bitterness-behind-two-of-the-worlds-most-popular-brands/
post #10180 of 13089
Quote:
Originally Posted by bamboo View Post

Thank you for your reply.  I read about Carmina using the method in Japanese shoe shop website.




Photo taken from Trading Post website.   I think the machine is cutting feather.   I thought Carmina and Meermin are owned by the same company so I was assuming they use the same method.  Thank you again for sharing information, your blog is extremely informative.

Like Bengal already described above, that is the channel for the sole stitch. Probably you've read about the machine cutting up the flap channel, which is pretty expensive, and probably both Carmina and Meermin use it, and many other brands as well. Some cut the channel by hand, but it's not that common when it comes to RTW. Thanks for your kind words about the blog!
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in case anyone is on the fence about buying GGs from nick, let me just say....



post #10182 of 13089
^
I need those... drool.gif
post #10183 of 13089
Quote:
Originally Posted by j ingevaldsson View Post


Like Bengal already described above, that is the channel for the sole stitch. Probably you've read about the machine cutting up the flap channel, which is pretty expensive, and probably both Carmina and Meermin use it, and many other brands as well. Some cut the channel by hand, but it's not that common when it comes to RTW. Thanks for your kind words about the blog!

 

Saint Crispins does channeled sole by hand.

post #10184 of 13089
Quote:
Originally Posted by JubeiSpiegel View Post

^
I need those... drool.gif

yes. yes you do. smile.gif
post #10185 of 13089
Really digging these Nagrani grey socks with the midnight blue Gables
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