Thank you everyone for all your kind words!
Originally Posted by wurger
Great write up and photos, from the translation, so G&G's vendor will be only Bespoke England? So no more supplied to Bodileys and EoM etc?
Yes, as I have understood it BE will be the only retailer in the UK, except themselves in their London shop and on their online shop.
Originally Posted by JubeiSpiegel
As an awesome personal sidenote, one of your pics showcases my current concept MTO pair, you can all thank me later.
They look great, thank you for that pic...
Ah, so you are the one who did the Galway version? Looks great, will probably be many people happy for being able to order a G&G version of that boot.
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe
Nice article, indeed!
I had to laugh out loud about this sentence in English translation:
It might be different in Swedish, but in English "the smallest room" means only one room: the toilet!
My commiserations to poor Daniel, who has to work in the loo.
Haha, no, doesn't mean the same thing in Swedish.
Originally Posted by bamboo
Very interesting reading. I found the part about new line's construction method particularly interesting. The method is described as somewhere between traditional hand sewn and GY and the same as StC, Meermin, Enzo Bonafe. I read about Carmina uses the method without gemming but use the machine to sew, so I presume this is the way they are talking about.
Originally Posted by nutcracker
JM Weston also employs a GY method without gemming (at least for their Golf model)
No, this is two different things. The JM Weston version of Goodyear welting (and maybe Carmina also then, haven't heard about this, they do use traditional gemming as a standard afaik) is with a lip cut out from a leather sole, instead of glueing on a canvas strip like with gemming, but they do use a Goodyear machine to sew the welt stitch. The reason many don't use this method is because of problems to get the leather lip to handle the heavy machine stitches, a canvas rib is harder and easier to sew in.
But the hand welting that G&G will use, and that SC, bonafe and Meermin use, is real hand sewn welt stitching. But instead of carving the lip/holdfast/feather out from a thicker leather insole, you order special insoles where the lip has already been carved out. That lip is a bit higher and not as sturdy as the hand cut out lip used in traditional hand welting, but a good alternative which makes the process faster and therefore cheaper.
Originally Posted by chogall
Well, hopefully the new construction method will be price competitive to at least Saint Crispins.
But with machine sewn outsole, they cannot do a closed waist similar to bespoke and pegged waist construction...
Their aim is to keep pricing not far from the Deco line, they don't want the prices to run away too much. If this means that they'll skip the spade soles or something, I don't know, and probably they don't either yet. Like I wrote, the plans are still at an early stage.Edited by j ingevaldsson - 10/21/13 at 10:27am