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Shoe Porn: Norvegese, Bentivegna, Goyser, BIG Stitch & BIG Welts ONLY! - Page 6

post #76 of 224
the tightness on those di biancos is very nice
post #77 of 224
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by purpleknight View Post
Wow, I just purchased the shoes above from Stanley Korshak in Dallas.. Di Bianco Trunk show last yr. Norvegese with double sole.



Very nice! I am definitely a Di Bianco fan now. Very nice pair to own, friend! Congrats.
GREAT pics too! Thanks.
post #78 of 224
Quote:
Originally Posted by purpleknight View Post
Wow, I just purchased the shoes above from Stanley Korshak in Dallas.. Di Bianco's Trunk show last yr. Norvegese with double sole.

]

These are nice and your pics are better than Di Bianco's website pics!!
post #79 of 224
Some great stuff in here! My Vass F-last, with subtle Goyser welt.
post #80 of 224
Quote:
Originally Posted by isshinryu101 View Post
Santoni Limited Edition Norvegese stitched Captoes in antique brown:
I think these the best ones posted in this thread. I only like this stitching if the shoe is a) an oxford and b) relatively elongated/sleek otherwise. I would love wear the above shoes with jeans and chinos. Anyone know who sells Santoni in NYC? The bluchers and monks look way too bulky to be elegant IMO. Also the stitching is a loud enough detail on its own, I don't see the point of having wild antiquing on the leather as well.
post #81 of 224
Quote:
Originally Posted by sellahi22 View Post
I think these the best ones posted in this thread. I only like this stitching if the shoe is a) an oxford and b) relatively elongated/sleek otherwise. I would love wear the above shoes with jeans and chinos. Anyone know who sells Santoni in NYC?

The bluchers and monks look way too bulky to be elegant IMO. Also the stitching is a loud enough detail on its own, I don't see the point of having wild antiquing on the leather as well.

I think the wholecuts are my favorites.
post #82 of 224
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Moo View Post
Some great stuff in here!

My Vass F-last, with subtle Goyser welt.

as i said in an earlier comment, this is probably one of my all time favourites.

certainly it helps that this is in the heritage of my ancestors, especially my grandfather
post #83 of 224



post #84 of 224
These are my favorites in this thread so far. I like the classic shape.

Quote:
Originally Posted by isshinryu101 View Post


post #85 of 224
These are very nice too. They remind me of the Berlutti Olga model (that doesn't fit my foot!)

Quote:
Originally Posted by isshinryu101 View Post


post #86 of 224
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LEE DONG JUN View Post

I LOVE your Santoni's, friend! That braided insole stitch is fabulous. I think Santoni does a TOP job of Norv stitching, especially their "antiquing" of the thread.
post #87 of 224
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Moo View Post
Some great stuff in here! My Vass F-last, with subtle Goyser welt.


Those are WONDERFUL, Moo! It just shows that you can do the stitching in a more elegant, understated manner (like Vass does- so perfect, I think), OR you can go "balls to the wall" out there.

I think those Vass were shoes #267 in the "Largest Shoe Sale Ever!".

Here's #266 (just a TOUCH more flamboyant than the Vass.

Enzo Bonafe Custom Norvegese Crocodile double Monks









post #88 of 224
Quote:
Originally Posted by isshinryu101 View Post
Those are WONDERFUL, Moo! It just shows that you can do the stitching in a more elegant, understated manner (like Vass does- so perfect, I think), OR you can go "balls to the wall" out there.

I think those Vass were shoes #267 in the "Largest Shoe Sale Ever!".

Here's #266 (just a TOUCH more flamboyant than the Vass.

Enzo Bonafe Custom Norvegese Crocodile double Monks










This is so over the top, glad you could pull it off, I probably can't
post #89 of 224
Thread Starter 
Borgioli for Franco's Norvegese Stitched Shell Cordovan Bluchers Forgive me for neglecting to wipe 'em down before taking pics.
post #90 of 224
Quote:
Originally Posted by isshinryu101 View Post
I love the Italian government. They are masters of regulation when it comes to their country's money-making industries. They have rules for exactly what an item must contain & how it must be made in order to call it something. From cognac to merlot wine, the place of origin of each ingredient, as well as the % of each ingredient used must be just so, to ensure uniformity. That way a customer always knows exactly what to expect.

For the term, "norvegese", that is not the case. Basically, you can call any kind of shoe construction "norvegese" and still get away with it. Traditionally (and under most definitions), norvegese construction requires the upper to be turned outward (rather than the the usual inward) & sewn directly into the top-sole. Some makers use a welt between the upper & the topsole. Personally, I have no problem with this, but some will say it's not really norvegese if a welt is used.

When it comes to norvegese, the Japanese (who LOVE norvegese & big stitching/ welts) have tried to label the different types of norvegese, but their terminology is not universally accepted.



In this diagram, they differentiate between "norwegian" where the side stitch goes directly into the insole & "norvegese" where the side stitch does not. Most don't see a distinction in the 2, calling them both "norvegese".

Their "norwegian welted" still uses the side stitch directly into the insole, but just adds a welt to the outside. Most would say this is NOT true "norvegese" because the upper is not turned outward and stitched into the top-sole.

Here are 2 more examples of different makers' definition of "norvegese":

Bettanin & Venturi:



Piergiacomi:


I've got a diagram for Lattanzi somewhere, but can't find it right now. The point is, the upper is always turned outward and stitched into the topsole.

On your (and my) Testoni's (although I like your 2-tones better), the upper is NOT turned outward and sewn into the upper. I know the model is different, but the construction is the same.






I'm pretty sure there is a welt inside the upper, and the side stitch goes into that, then into the insole. I had tried to pull at my insole to see more clearly, but abandoned the idea, as I still like the shoes and wasn't ready to sacrifice them for the effort

So... by the Japanese diagram, these Testoni's are "Norwegian welted construction", just the welt is inside, rather than outside the upper (as in the diagram). Most makers would not call this "norvegese".

BUT, NONE of this really matters!!! The construction is still very nice & durable. They've still got that big stitch, and still make a very nice addition to this thread!

Thank you for mentioned along with other famous brands.
I think that every craftsman build his shoes based on its experience and its history, we do not sew the lining because a farmer once told us:"for the price it costs at least it's waterproof?"
We use a single thread for seams, unlike other artisans, but every point is closed with a knot,so even if you were to accidentally cut a point on the Norwegian stitching, its does not dissolve.

Norwegian and Bentivegna are more expensive than the Goodyear, because they are much more difficult to implement, are more beautiful to see, much more exclusive, and above stitch is visible and not hidden like the Goodyear. (Goodyear can also be made to the machine if you do not trust those who produce it could result in a fraud. In fact, we now apply a profile to prove the authenticity of the handmade goodyear)

Thanks for this post.
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