or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Alden Modified Last: If You Wear, or are Interested, Please Read
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Alden Modified Last: If You Wear, or are Interested, Please Read - Page 35

post #511 of 1032
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post

alright. pls, let me prepare myself doing additional homework and some deepre research before i lay out my ideas on this.
actually there is one or another project sleeping in my drawer. will wake it up and get back to you(all).
in the meantime can someone guide me to some inside shots of an Alden on the ML last. this would be extremly helpful, thanks.

What do you mean by "inside shots"? The interior of the shoe itself or pics of the inside of the foot?
post #512 of 1032
Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzl View Post

alright. pls, let me prepare myself doing additional homework and some deepre research before i lay out my ideas on this.
actually there is one or another project sleeping in my drawer. will wake it up and get back to you(all).
in the meantime can someone guide me to some inside shots of an Alden on the ML last. this would be extremly helpful, thanks.

These help? It's an 11D.

Might need more depth-of-field to better see the interior?

467

263

263

467
Edited by sm31 - 7/18/12 at 1:43pm
post #513 of 1032
This is a pretty decent photo of the shape of the sole and the skewed heel:

53501_03.jpg
post #514 of 1032
Quote:
Originally Posted by sm31 View Post

These help? Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Might need more depth-of-field to better see the interior?
467
263
263
467

excellent. much appreciated.
post #515 of 1032
Quote:
Originally Posted by Knowledge is King View Post

This is a pretty decent photo of the shape of the sole and the skewed heel:
53501_03.jpg

dopey mentioned that they all come with a thomas heel. so this isn't a necessity?
post #516 of 1032

Most have the "erco" heel as pictured above. Some have a normal heel, like http://www.theshoemart.com/alden-mens-45625h-natural-chrome-excel/pvc-ald-mxsbc-45625h_ald_m_45625h.html (click on additional views link)

post #517 of 1032
herrmj, good suggestion on the Shoemart images. They have several images from various perspectives. Here's a good heel perspectives of a black captoe. The biased cut (higher on the inside) is fairly unique.

Shoemart Black Captoe
5B_558.jpg
post #518 of 1032
post #519 of 1032
this is great info guys.

i can feel sort of determination from your side, which is very good to get the things going.
post #520 of 1032
Quote:
Originally Posted by Knowledge is King View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
herrmj, good suggestion on the Shoemart images. They have several images from various perspectives. Here's a good heel perspectives of a black captoe.
The biased cut (higher on the inside) is fairly unique. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

it's a signature of AH shoes. i think we're on track... fingers crossed happy.gif

for all: AH is the abbreviation for Austro-Hungarian, my special field, so i will likely use it fairly often and don't want to write it out every time, thanks.
post #521 of 1032
in case someone missed it. this is an exceptional good read to understand how fit and the mechanics of a last work. don't miss it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bengal-stripe View Post

"Width" is a bit of a misnomer, as most people presume the term refers to the sole measurement (left to right). It is actually the circumference of the last, measured at the ball and other points of the last. The old term "fitting" would be probably more appropriate. In the old days a slim last was fitted-up with additional leather pieces to increase volume; this would also have increased the width of the sole with each additional 'fitting' attached.
The standard rule for the widest point of the sole is the ball measurement divided by 3 plus 10%. Let's do it metric (much easier than dividing inches) a circumference of 240mm : 3 + 10% + 88mm. The increase in circumference from one width to the next is about 5mm, which means the increase (or decrease) in sole width is about 1.5mm from one fitting to the next. Here is a drawing showing a particular last in a given size and different widths. The length remains constant, but the measurement at the widest point changes.
last.png
Most shoe factories (maybe all) do not change the sole shape with every width. The soles are dye-cut (large cookie-cutters) and it is common practice to build two shoe width on the same sole shape (the wider last is higher but not wider at the base, so the wider shoe has more volume but not in every dimension.) EG builds D and E on the same sole shape (this was once confirmed to me by an EG employee.) So E is higher than D, has more volume but is, strictly speaking, not wider than D. I presume with American shoes, although I had that never confirmed, widths C and D are based on the same insole; than a wider one will cover E and EE.
Here is a drawing from a text book (Golding, 1935) comparing a typical English with a typical American last.
last3.png
The American one is wider in the base and shallower, the English one narrower and higher, giving both of them (more or less) the same circumference. I believe that distinction is still the case: American shoes are shallower (some of the Alden loafers can be extremely tight across the instep). So the EG shoe in D (same sole shape, but shallower last) will be closer to the American ideal, than the English E width; the American E width will be wider in the base than the standard English E, but they are quite close to each other in circumference.
I say that with reasonable, but not absolute, certainty as I have not access to the different individual last and so cannot get confirmation by runnig a tape measure over them. But I do not think, that I'm too far off.
post #522 of 1032

Here is an interesting side by side of the Modified vs. Trubalance. 

 

http://mouldedshoe.tumblr.com/post/11695198789/a-tale-of-two-stitches-the-custom-alden-modified

post #523 of 1032
Signed the Modified Shell petition 18 months ago and am wondering if any progress was ever made with the mighty Alden decision makers. Update please, thanks.
post #524 of 1032
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tarnow View Post

Signed the Modified Shell petition 18 months ago and am wondering if any progress was ever made with the mighty Alden decision makers. Update please, thanks.

Alden told Rafael at MS, basically, to go F himself. So, no dice. I have not written a letter to Alden yet.
post #525 of 1032
Sorry to hear that Alden's business model continues to limit modified last style offerings. Nevertheless, we all seem to find a pair of shoes to wear every day...
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Alden Modified Last: If You Wear, or are Interested, Please Read