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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part III - Page 5230  

post #78436 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kylerton View Post
 

 

I'm pretty sure that being called "The Terminator" is not a compliment. 


Yeah, not exactly one of my style icons. Speaking of style icons, suitsofjamesbond.com says that Daniel Craig is wearing Persol Model 2244 in this scene from Casino Royale:

Good call, Kylerton. I'm going to look for something in that vein.

post #78437 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kylerton View Post

Center vents vs. side vents -- which do you guys prefer, and why? 

Double vents for me - it allows me to move around more freely and I think the jacket wrinkles less when you are seated as opposed to a single vent or no vents at all. Plus, I think double vented jackets flatter more body shapes.

I have all my coats made with double vents now. I still do have a few single vented coats that I still wear often though, but I much prefer the double vented.
post #78438 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kylerton View Post

Center vents vs. side vents -- which do you guys prefer, and why? 

Double vents, much more comfortable. I have both single and d vent yet when considering a fit it is not part of the decision making process. That said, i always notice, at some part of the day, that a DV is more comfortable. my 0.02
post #78439 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kylerton View Post
 

Center vents vs. side vents -- which do you guys prefer, and why? 

 

No vent at all for a dinner jacket, of course.

 

Double-breasted peak lapel coat:  no vent or two vents.

 

Personal preference for suit coat, in descending order:  two, none, one.  (None is a pretty formal look, so the rest of the coat had better be similarly dressy.)

 

Just one guy's preferences.  Your mileage …

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #78440 of 78717
Double vented is usually preferred, for the reasons articulated by Flusser below:

Vents

Jacket vents have a military heritage. Before the advent of the automobile, soldiers traveled by horse and thus clothes were adapted accordingly. The slit in the tails of the coat permitted it to fall on each side of the horse, allowing greater comfort and freedom of motion for the wearer. This comfort and ease carried over into walking and sitting, as vents allow trouser pockets to be more accessible and sitting more comfortable.

There are three types of jacket vents: the non-vested jacket, favored by Europeans; the double-vented jacket, favored mostly by the English; and the single-vented jacket, favored by Americans.

The ventless jacket has wonderful form but functions poorly as a design. Whenever you choose to put your hands in your pockets, or sit down, there is no place for the jacket to go, and so it creases and bunches up in the back.

The single-vented jacket gives the wearer a boxy look in back by cutting him precisely in half, and when one puts one’s hands in the pockets, the jacket appears to split open down the middle, often exposing the belt, the shirt, and the buttocks.

Those who were the best-dressed in the 1930s wore either the double-vented or the non-vented jacket. However, the double- vented jacket gives added shape to the garment by emphasizing the outside lines of the body. When the wearer is walking, you can see movement on the side, as the jacket corresponds to the movement of the leg. This fluidity helps create a more attractive silhouette. Moreover, the distance from the floor to the bottom of the jacket is lengthened by an observer’s eye moving smoothly up the length of the vent, thus giving the wearer the illusion of greater height. Beyond aesthetics, the double- vented jacket is a perfect example of form and function uniting. This is evident when you sit down or put your hands in your pockets: the flap comes up, which allows the jacket to avoid creasing and the buttocks to remain covered.

The only time one might avoid the double-vented jacket is if a man is excessively wide hipped and broad in the rear. Here, the single-vented jacket can do more to camouflage breadth.

The height of the vents should correspond to the bottom of the flap on one’s jacket pocket. This means a slit of between seven to nine inches on a size 40 regular. If higher, the vents will simply call attention to themselves.
post #78441 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stiva View Post

Double vented is usually preferred, for the reasons articulated by Flusser below:

Vents

Jacket vents have a military heritage. Before the advent of the automobile, soldiers traveled by horse and thus clothes were adapted accordingly. The slit in the tails of the coat permitted it to fall on each side of the horse, allowing greater comfort and freedom of motion for the wearer. This comfort and ease carried over into walking and sitting, as vents allow trouser pockets to be more accessible and sitting more comfortable.
[...]

 

Actually, as a point of history, the English outdoor sporting jacket—including the “hacking” (riding) jacket, as well as the Norfolk, shooting, and others— has historically tended to have a single vent. This point can get lost in Flusser's description, but note his use of the singular noun 'slit'.

 

Here’s Hardy Amies (British, of course) on the subject of the single vent from his useful (and often amusingly opinionated) ABC of Men’s Fashion (1964):

 

Center Vent

The vent is actually a slit in the middle of the back of a riding or hacking jacket designed to allow the skirt of the jacket to spread freely when you sit astride a horse.  It can help the jacket of a suit in much the same way, and in any case adds a touch of style.  For riding, a center vent must start at the waist.  In a suit or sports jacket it should be seven or eight inches long.”

 

Here are a few other relevant entries from the same book.

 

Hacking Jacket

Do not think this is just a sports jacket with a slit at the back.  In order to allow you to sit comfortably astride a horse, it is cut with a wide, longish skirt, and the center vent at the back starts at the waist to allow that skirt to spread.”

 

Side Vents

Side vents are short openings at the bottoms of the two side seams of the jacket.  They are usually no more than about 3 inches long, and on a sports jacket they make it a semi-hacking style.  They tend to be out of place on single-breasted lounge suits, but they can be effective on a double-breasted jacket, where a center vent would appear unbalanced.”

 

In any case, the English riding coat traditionally has a single vent.  These days you can buy a side-vented jacket, but it’s a relative latecomer to the English scene, being a bit more formal and worn more in lower-level dressage (in the highest level of dressage one wears a tailcoat, of course).  But then dressage itself was a latecomer to the English riding scene, and to this day English riding still tends to be dominated by hacking.

 

On the subject of vents more generally, another Englishman, Nicholas Storey, in his History of Men’s Fashion, (2008), summarizes his view on vents this way:

 

“The modern convention for vents is that a single-breasted coat has none, one or two vents, and a double-breasted has none or two vents, as you wish.”  p. 41.

 

I think that’s probably close to majority opinion these days.

 

History aside, these days individual body conformation can matter in making the choice.  For example, Despos, whose expertise is beyond question, remarked that side vents might not be optimal for people who “weigh over 300 lbs or have disproportionate large/wide hips.”  See this thread

 

http://www.styleforum.net/t/388685/vent-preferences#post_7110084

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #78442 of 78717

Am I the only one having problems with this thread not adding additional pages to account for new posts? I am currently viewing page 5231 out of 5230 total and am reading post 78456 out of 78450. The only way to access this page has been through my subscriptions by clicking on the most recent post itself. Anyone having similar issues or have any clue at all what I am talking about?

post #78443 of 78717
@Holdfast Buttoned, with a Nehru jacket smile.gif

@KylertonDouble vents, usually.
post #78444 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by luv2breformed View Post
 

Am I the only one having problems with this thread not adding additional pages to account for new posts? I am currently viewing page 5231 out of 5230 total and am reading post 78456 out of 78450. The only way to access this page has been through my subscriptions by clicking on the most recent post itself. Anyone having similar issues or have any clue at all what I am talking about?

 

This has been going on for about two days now.  You're right, to get to the most recent post you need to click on that post, not on the page number.

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #78445 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by luv2breformed View Post

Am I the only one having problems with this thread not adding additional pages to account for new posts? I am currently viewing page 5231 out of 5230 total and am reading post 78456 out of 78450. The only way to access this page has been through my subscriptions by clicking on the most recent post itself. Anyone having similar issues or have any clue at all what I am talking about?

Yup, same for me. Annoying.
post #78446 of 78717
@Kylerton, in my experience, it's difficult to get single vents to lie properly unless you have a relatively flat ass (for RTW at least). Even a hint of, as you say, caboose calls for double vents.
post #78447 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by ridethecliche View Post

@upr_crust
, did you go for the duckworths?

The model name is Downing, in striped sassafras (yet another form of medium brown tortoiseshell) - not far off from the style of Duckworths. They arrived this evening - will model in due course.

Quote:
Originally Posted by EFV View Post

Yup, same for me. Annoying.

I also am getting the annoyance of not being able to see the latest postings. I did discover that, if you attempt to post, it will show you the latest posting in reverse order, including the ones that won't display otherwise. Perhaps time to restart this thread - iteration #4, I believe?
post #78448 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by upr_crust View Post

I also am getting the annoyance of not being able to see the latest postings. I did discover that, if you attempt to post, it will show you the latest posting in reverse order, including the ones that won't display otherwise. Perhaps time to restart this thread - iteration #4, I believe?

 

I believe it only happens for like the first 4-5 postings on a new page. Then it seems to correct itself, at least until the next page. I don't know if there is any sort of correlation, but I believe this began happening around the time that Clags started deleting posts . . .

post #78449 of 78717

Watermelon.  Square is yellow gingham.  

 

 

 

 

post #78450 of 78717

Good morning!

 

SF Family:

Henry Carter (tie)

Howard Yount (square)

WvG (pants)

Unipair (shoes)

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by luv2breformed View Post
 

 

Clags is a chronic post editor. :tounge:


Stick it where the sun don't shine.


Edited by Claghorn - 5/19/14 at 4:35pm
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Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part III