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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part III - Page 5048  

post #75706 of 78723
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

Length is a weird thing. Commenters have their own ways of assessing it based on things like where the hem is in relation to the wearer's hands and such, but that is inaccurate due to some people have shorter or longer arms and hands. Also people forget that some people have longer or shorter torsos, the same for people's legs. To really assess length you have to look at the whole picture, the entire height of the person and even how fitted the garment is to assess it.

 

+1000

 

Flusser’s worth quoting on the length issue, because what he has to say is pretty much what a good tailor would say:

 

“The principal criterion governing a jacket’s length is that it be long enough to cover the curvature of the buttocks while giving the leg as long a line as possible […] Two methods for determining the correct method originated with America’s development of ready-made men’s clothing, which needed general guidelines upon which to establish its standards of fit.  The first employs the arm as a guide; when your hand is dropped at you side, the bottom of the jacket is supposed to line up with the [knuckle of the] outstretched thumb.  Though generally reliable, this formula has one drawback:  arm length varies from person to person.  The second approach measures the distance from the jacket’s back collar (the point at which it joins the coat’s body) to the floor, which is then divided in half.  This is the procedure taught in most tailoring schools.  Either of these two approaches can be influenced by dimensions unique to the wearer; a top tailor will use neither, trusting his practiced eye to take in the whole picture before deciding on the jacket’s ideal length.”  — Dressing the Man, pp. 40-41.

 

Notice, please:  (1) the first criterion is that the buttocks be covered; (2) the most frequently cited criterion, the thumb knuckle, is actually the least reliable and has its origins not in tailoring but in marketing; (3) the half-way-to-the-floor criterion is one taught to tailors (but only as a first approximation subject to adjustments to accommodate the individual).

 

Since most photos on SF are from the front, it’s not always possible to know with certainty if a jacket is properly covering the buttocks.  A reasonable substitute is to see if it covers the crotch:  does it extend to the point in the vertical dimension where the two trouser inseams meet.

 

The most important point, however, is the one I put in bold type (the same can be said for buttoning points, but that’s a different discussion).  One dresses an individual, not an ideal.

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #75707 of 78723
Thanks @Pliny much appreciated

@SeaJen Like that combo, like the tie especially, colour works for me. Similar shades there too it's picking up nod[1].gif
post #75708 of 78723
Aló!

Having some meetings when everybody else is on vacation.

post #75709 of 78723

After my favorite suit from yesterday (thanks for the thumbs), here my second favorite suit from Corneliani.

 

 

See details (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

post #75710 of 78723
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudals View Post
 

I don't like the tie. Your jacket sleeves are uneven and a tad bit long and the length of the jacket is short. :nest:

The tie, though the entire method of judging a tie could be debatable, is subjective. Clag wears lighter ties a lot. It's his thing. It looks good.

 

The jacket sleeves thing, it's not a fit pic. Could be the way he's standing. I never judge that unless someone is asking me to.

 

As far as the length of the jacket, I WOULD be inclined to agree but I know Clag likes his stuff a certain way, like button stance a bit high, and etc. And as Booth said, length is a funny thing. 

Overall, I'd say he looks great. I'd call him a well dressed son of a bitch any day.

post #75711 of 78723

For Butler's trainwreck challenge:

 

Ddrs028.jpg?1

 

Yeah, jeans...

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
d1gjMeU.jpg

 

PS. switching right to the other end of the formality spectrum, and indulging in a little light shilling, if any 36R/36S wants a great tux from Ede & Ravenscroft, I've just listed one for sale in B&S.

post #75712 of 78723
Hopefully todays jacket fits even a little better. If not I may just have to become a nudist hermit, take a vow of silence and survive only on juniper berries

fjVQTSl.jpg
post #75713 of 78723

@DonCologne You appear to have really dialed-in the style you prefer. I have a question, though. Are you naturally very square shouldered, or do you prefer very structured shoulders? I know that the vintage Oxxford suits you like are often that way, but I think a softer, more sloped and more natural shoulder would look good on you. 

post #75714 of 78723
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaJen View Post
 

@DonCologne You appear to have really dialed-in the style you prefer. I have a question, though. Are you naturally very square shouldered, or do you prefer very structured shoulders? I know that the vintage Oxxford suits you like are often that way, but I think a softer, more sloped and more natural shoulder would look good on you. 

 

I have both very structured shoulders (The whole Oxxford stuff and I think the american sack cut is good for people with a little bit more on the hips) and softer ones (Some sports coats and suits from Corneliani, Caruso, Zegna which fits also well). 

post #75715 of 78723
Quote:
Originally Posted by theberg510 View Post

Hopefully todays jacket fits even a little better. If not I may just have to become a nudist hermit, take a vow of silence and survive only on juniper berries
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
fjVQTSl.jpg

 

shoulder, chest and collar (no collar gap) seems ok but I think you could benefit from wider lapels.

It seems the jacket is a little bit to tight in the waist, because the lapels makes a small "O" instead of the "V" it should.

post #75716 of 78723
Venturing outside my usual... My first crazy pants:

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


F042C6D7-7A13-4D39-A95F-0EA6E028D4F2_zpsui4pkx1v.jpg

post #75717 of 78723

velvet jacket from Alain Manoukian, tie from Hérmes, shirt from aquascutum, silk scarve cap waistcoat vintage, shoes from Santoni (patina handmade by myself) rain coat from Blizzand

Cigar from Cuba

post #75718 of 78723

For a moment, @ianGP thought he was going to win the crazy outfit of the day award....for a moment.

I like the pants, btw, Ian. 

post #75719 of 78723
@Pliny haha yeah, gotta put down the protein shakes wink.gif

@Cotton Dockers Duly noted! I'll see what I can put together tomorrow!
post #75720 of 78723
@SeaJen haha Thanks man cheers.gif First pents from TF... had to go with something crazy.
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