Assuming that you're talking about jeans, I'd say that's the case for most of Europe.
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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part III - Page 5047post #75692 of 787174/17/14 at 7:33ampost #75693 of 787174/17/14 at 7:33ampost #75694 of 787174/17/14 at 7:35amQuote:Originally Posted by mossrockss
I can wear a beach-y sweater in Ohio on 60°F days, right?
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
That would look much better with beach-y trousers. These are much too dark and formal for the light sweater.post #75695 of 787174/17/14 at 7:36amNot sold on that fit, Moss. I can't tell what kind of pants those are. If they are chinos that's fine, but the sweater is way too casual if they are anything dressier. Also, that sweater is way to casual for the ocbd under it. I would wear that sweater without a collared shirt under it. Also, I think charcoal pants, or jeans would look better with the sweater.post #75696 of 787174/17/14 at 7:36ampost #75697 of 787174/17/14 at 7:38am
I have noticed a number of fits getting a lot of praise when I thought the jackets were laughably short, but then I remember that I'm old.
Regardless of the temperature, I'm retiring the winter wardrobe completely this weekend (thought that happened last weekend, though). One just gets too bored wearing the same stuff over and over.post #75698 of 787174/17/14 at 7:42ampost #75699 of 787174/17/14 at 7:59amQuote:
awsm chalkstripeOriginally Posted by jungleroller
Since we're on the subject of length. I'm still trying to understand this. I know general rules as far as coat length (cover the ass/go to the knuckles) but then when I see the above and many other fits barely covering the ass I second guess those rules. It seems SC's are being cut much shorter nowadays and their fits still getting high praise. Is there some exception to this that I'm missing? I'm not saying I dislike the above look but it just goes against what I know. Edit, I guess it's hard to tell in the above pic.
casual fit like Robs89's a shorter jacket is a must IMO. tight pants sticking out of a longer jacket'spost #75700 of 787174/17/14 at 8:06amQuote:Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH
Length is a weird thing. Commenters have their own ways of assessing it based on things like where the hem is in relation to the wearer's hands and such, but that is inaccurate due to some people have shorter or longer arms and hands. Also people forget that some people have longer or shorter torsos, the same for people's legs. To really assess length you have to look at the whole picture, the entire height of the person and even how fitted the garment is to assess it.
Flusser’s worth quoting on the length issue, because what he has to say is pretty much what a good tailor would say:
“The principal criterion governing a jacket’s length is that it be long enough to cover the curvature of the buttocks while giving the leg as long a line as possible […] Two methods for determining the correct method originated with America’s development of ready-made men’s clothing, which needed general guidelines upon which to establish its standards of fit. The first employs the arm as a guide; when your hand is dropped at you side, the bottom of the jacket is supposed to line up with the [knuckle of the] outstretched thumb. Though generally reliable, this formula has one drawback: arm length varies from person to person. The second approach measures the distance from the jacket’s back collar (the point at which it joins the coat’s body) to the floor, which is then divided in half. This is the procedure taught in most tailoring schools. Either of these two approaches can be influenced by dimensions unique to the wearer; a top tailor will use neither, trusting his practiced eye to take in the whole picture before deciding on the jacket’s ideal length.” — Dressing the Man, pp. 40-41.
Notice, please: (1) the first criterion is that the buttocks be covered; (2) the most frequently cited criterion, the thumb knuckle, is actually the least reliable and has its origins not in tailoring but in marketing; (3) the half-way-to-the-floor criterion is one taught to tailors (but only as a first approximation subject to adjustments to accommodate the individual).
Since most photos on SF are from the front, it’s not always possible to know with certainty if a jacket is properly covering the buttocks. A reasonable substitute is to see if it covers the crotch: does it extend to the point in the vertical dimension where the two trouser inseams meet.
The most important point, however, is the one I put in bold type (the same can be said for buttoning points, but that’s a different discussion). One dresses an individual, not an ideal.
Acpost #75701 of 787174/17/14 at 8:15ampost #75702 of 787174/17/14 at 9:19ampost #75703 of 787174/17/14 at 9:21ampost #75704 of 787174/17/14 at 9:27amQuote:
The tie, though the entire method of judging a tie could be debatable, is subjective. Clag wears lighter ties a lot. It's his thing. It looks good.
The jacket sleeves thing, it's not a fit pic. Could be the way he's standing. I never judge that unless someone is asking me to.
As far as the length of the jacket, I WOULD be inclined to agree but I know Clag likes his stuff a certain way, like button stance a bit high, and etc. And as Booth said, length is a funny thing.
Overall, I'd say he looks great. I'd call him a well dressed son of a bitch any day.post #75705 of 787174/17/14 at 9:40am
For Butler's trainwreck challenge:
PS. switching right to the other end of the formality spectrum, and indulging in a little light shilling, if any 36R/36S wants a great tux from Ede & Ravenscroft, I've just listed one for sale in B&S.
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