or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part III
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part III - Page 4629  

post #69421 of 78724
@Rudals When you are putting things together, what is your thought process? Some of the best advice I think I ever got was from HF who told about having a concept in mind while working out an ensemble. If I'm correct, you probably work in an environment with less flexibility than mine, but the same thing can be done. Having a thing in mind that you're shooting for - which is not "Well, I wanted to work this item in today" or "I wanted to put together something SF approved" - can be very helpful in nailing down the things you want. You have to know what you want to say before you figure out how you want to say it. Otherwise, you're speaking phonetically in another language. Sure, you are saying words, but you may not be quite sure what they mean or how you may have phrased things better.

Additionally, as HF said, nobody long term really cares about what you wear except you. This is good because you can then treat things existentially and imagine the critiques and other things you get as thoughts running through your own head. Learn what those voices like and don't like and decide which ones to listen to and which ones not. Figure out which preferences you're going to incorporate and which ones you're going to ignore, then imagine what the ones you're going to use will say when you put something together. Feel free to modify them because it seems like the part of the process you're in is figuring out how you want to think about the way you dress, and the responses you get here provide new things along that line. Once you've put them in your head though, you're free to bring them along to your likes and dislikes because they're what you think. Use them to develop your own voice that you can express through how you dress.
post #69422 of 78724
I think you can wear shantung in winter, but you need more rustic fabrics to go with it. The smooth worsted that Noodles is wearing doesn't work well with it. You can also rock wool in the summer if the color is summery and the weave isn't too chunky. GMMcL's tie would work with a fresco suit.

Of course, the real question is why anyone would want to wear shantung at all... peepwall[1].gif
post #69423 of 78724
Butchy - I like the tie pairing with the Pink shirt. I take this back because of your heathenous remark about Shantung.

GMMcL - I have an irrational love of purple pinstripes.
post #69424 of 78724
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

I think you can wear shantung in winter, but you need more rustic fabrics to go with it. The smooth worsted that Noodles is wearing doesn't work well with it. You can also rock wool in the summer if the color is summery and the weave isn't too chunky. GMMcL's tie would work with a fresco suit.

Of course, the real question is why anyone would want to wear shantung at all... peepwall[1].gif

 

Agreed (to the first paragraph, anyway).

 

What's your opinion on flannel trousers worn with a smooth worsted blazer?

post #69425 of 78724
Quote:
Originally Posted by mossrockss View Post


Yeah, think about all the stylish Italian dudes who you've seen wearing shantung ties. Were they ever wearing them with flannel/in winter, or always with linen/in spring/summer? It's perhaps an anachronistic association but one that ultimately makes sense, I think. It's a more loosely woven tie, with the imperfections/slubs lending themselves well to the casual, rumpled look of a linen jacket.


I go back and forth on this. WOn't claim any authority about this matter, but while I understand there is a tradition, what strikes me more about the slubbiness of Shantung is the casualness of it rather than the summeryness of it. Some nice Shantung's are available from Conrad Wu (pretty slubby, so a matter of preference...some might think too slubby). They are substantial ties in a sense, not heavy, but dry and stiff. I'm probably going to wear them more in the spring/summer (they do feel more appropriate for that season), but the olive one I would happily wear now when I'm in a more casual mood.

 

The tie in my pic a few pages back is a denim/linen. I like the texture in it, and it's a substantial tie: heavy and thick fabric. Feels late summer/early fall, but again, wore it today (late January). Just wanted a navy tie with some texture.

 

So, seasonal appropriateness is a factor I play with, a strong constraint, but not a deal breaker. In the context of a set of fits, a heavy linen mixed with some wool ties over the course of a week seems, in that context, ok.

 

Defensive enough?:) 

 

Edit: Shucks Butch, really?

post #69426 of 78724

@mktitsworth 

Currently, I wake up and have like 5 minutes to figure out what the heck I am going to wear. 

I think what you were trying to say indirectly is that I am unconfident. I think I am. But this is because I do not know what I want. What I wanted was a navy on navy look, which was a not working out for me. So I started listening to others and I am now trying to figure out what I want. I try different things and try to get the vibe. You probably haven't noticed but sometimes I play it safe and post something that is SF compliant but then I try to do something that is challenging for me. That's when $hit hits the fan....usually. I need to gain confidence but I do not yet know what I want. That's where it stands now.

 

I think shatungs are just fine in the winter and wool ties can be worn all season long! :nest:

Actually, I try to stay away from buying wool ties and just stick with silk. 

post #69427 of 78724
Quote:
Originally Posted by mktitsworth View Post


GMMcL - I have an irrational love of purple pinstripes.

Iknowright? The purple stripe in this suit is really only visible up close and I didn't have time to mess about with capturing it any better than I did. Good news is it's subtle enough that one doesn't need to wear purple with it. But I usually use it as an excuse to do so anyway.

Your comment to Rudals intrigues me. Usually I set out to combine pieces I like in a way that pleases me -- which includes color and textural mix, and of course fit. I would never have thought of describing that as trying to "achieve" something. Do you (or HF) care to elaborate on what's meant?
post #69428 of 78724
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudals View Post
 

 

 

I wear shantung ties during the winter, and due to their texture, I don't think that they look bad. I this this looks good.

post #69429 of 78724

@Cotton Dockers looking good!

post #69430 of 78724


Staying close to the heat vent.







At the end of a long, frigid, Monday: Tie is loose; shoes are covered with snow, ice, salt, and stuff.
Edited by clarinetplayer - 1/27/14 at 1:30pm
post #69431 of 78724
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudals View Post

baldy%5B1%5D.gif
I was thinking of this tie but I am recycling this way too much. 

nothing wrong with recycling something good.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TC (Houston) View Post

Leaving aside the seasonal issues as noted above, I don't see anything wrong with this at all. Looks great. Would look marginally better if your tie were a little shorter.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

I think you can wear shantung in winter, but you need more rustic fabrics to go with it. The smooth worsted that Noodles is wearing doesn't work well with it.

this. the slubby nature of shantung is imho very well suited for F/W as long as the rest of the items are coherent. obviously as a matter of principle some will say that shantung is always a no-no in F/W, but that aside, it can look right when all the pieces fit.

---

good looking fit, SB.
post #69432 of 78724
@Rudals It's not that I think you lack confidence, though you may. A lack of confidence isn't a bad thing IMO. Plenty of people have come in here cock sure and confident, posted drek, then disappeared into their own menswear blogs/tumblrs because they didn't get the adulation they sought through SF. It's where Acridsheep's Noob lifecycle graphic came from. A willingness to be open can go a long way. You'll find it amongst most of the posters who couple personality of style to genuine personality. .

I think you've said it when you say you don't know what you want. So, when you want to play it safe, you stick with things you think will garner SF approval. This is fine. It gives you some kind of direction. Further understanding of what SF approves of can be used to build up a base of knowledge. Know the ins and outs and what some of the rules are. It's a stepping stone to a personal aesthetic. Navy on Navy can be something that fits within that aesthetic, but it's a piece of a much larger puzzle.

That you try to do things that challenge you - and because of it the shit hits the fan - is a good thing. It's also part of that personal development project. I would encourage you to keep doing this and wading through what gets thrown because of it. When I post something to SF these days usually it's because I'm unsure of how I feel about the whole thing. For me, it's an experiment and I gather data. Usually it's something I like, but it's also something I know is probably outside of the SF mainstream. As such, when I get a response, it's something to consider and help decide whether or not the experiment was successful. I think the last thing I posted was a couple of weeks ago, and Henry Carter commented on the tie. This was exactly what I was looking for. I could have gone with a burgundy knit, and I would have been okay with that, but I wanted to see if that particular thing worked. I think it went okay, but there were specific details that I will improve next time.

Likewise, I encourage you to do some similar things that I have found very helpful:
  1. Provided you have time the night before, set things out then. This can usually be done right before bed, though I like to do it some time earlier in the evening. It gives me a chance to go back and look and tweak whatever may have been the first draft. Sometimes I'll switch something out and switch it back because I end up liking it. This way though, I'm good to get up and dressed so that the kiddo can be to school and I can be off. It lets me ponder on whether or not I really like something.
  2. Make a spreadsheet of the different items you have together with lists of ideas for combinations. Some you'll keep, some you'll get rid of, but the act of putting these down then reading them while trying to pick - or at any other time you want - helps push ideas along. You get them out of your head so that you can play with them.
  3. Keep a folder of "good fits." I figure everyone does this, but it's worth mentioning. Make sure though that what's good is not merely the photography because that can be deceptive.
  4. The other thing I try to do though is find images I like that I want to try and encapsulate - concepts for fits. One of my first (and still a favorite) was a strawberry truffle. I had a chocolate suit and a pink shirt, and upon posting it, someone immediately linked one of the pictures I'd saved for the idea. It certainly wasn't the best thing I've ever done, but it got the idea across. One that I really like and ended up in the gdl thread was inspired from Seurat's "A Sunday Afternoon on the Island of La Grande Jatte" and wanting to keep that warm feeling of summer in defiance of the coming fall/winter.
  5. Be very choosy in making new purchases. There are plenty of things you can buy that once you learn to put them together will bring you the adoration of SF. This is not necessarily a bad thing. However, you can get swept along in the things SF likes but later finding that you yourself are not so keen on them. Additionally, I find being choosy often restricts me to considering and finding new things I like with what I've got. The patience it takes to be choosy has also been good for me because if I'm going to be patient, I'm going to get exactly what I want, which is how I came to the decision of having things made for me.

    It's required a lot of patience and waiting (almost 3 years now) but I'm back in to the position where I can contemplate my second bespoke suit. I realize not everyone has the patience, want, or luxury of time, but I find that the discipline involved in waiting and saving has forced me into doing better with the things I have and culling out the things I'm not going to wear. YMMV, but I have found that being calculating and risking losing opportunities has taught me more about what I like through what I'm willing to jump on immediately and what I can keep focused on than buying things because they were SF approved or I had a passing fancy for them ever did.
  6. The last thing, which is I think a bit cheesy, but I can't deny finding true, is to enjoy the clothes you own. This is not a "be happy with what you have" statement, because there are some pieces that I've bought and then found that I didn't enjoy. While we all like clothes around here, there are certain people whom its obvious really get a kick out of their clothes regardless of most other things. Decide to be one of those people. While they're not always the most SF approved, they are usually unmistakable and - regardless of whether or not one likes it - have a definite aesthetic.

Anyway, that's my two bits. Hopefully they are of use. This got longer and more didactic than I meant, but I think sometimes you sell yourself short. You're doing just fine. You are by far more SF-CM approved than I usually am.
post #69433 of 78724
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudals View Post
 

@mktitsworth 

Currently, I wake up and have like 5 minutes to figure out what the heck I am going to wear. 

I think what you were trying to say indirectly is that I am unconfident. I think I am. But this is because I do not know what I want. What I wanted was a navy on navy look, which was a not working out for me. So I started listening to others and I am now trying to figure out what I want. I try different things and try to get the vibe. You probably haven't noticed but sometimes I play it safe and post something that is SF compliant but then I try to do something that is challenging for me. That's when $hit hits the fan....usually. I need to gain confidence but I do not yet know what I want. That's where it stands now.

 

I think shatungs are just fine in the winter and wool ties can be worn all season long! :nest:

Actually, I try to stay away from buying wool ties and just stick with silk. 

 

Pick out your clothes before you go to bed.

post #69434 of 78724
Tits, colin would like a word. wink.gif

But a very good post. Though spreadsheets and folders are more than I could handle to do.
post #69435 of 78724
Quote:
Originally Posted by GMMcL View Post

Iknowright? The purple stripe in this suit is really only visible up close and I didn't have time to mess about with capturing it any better than I did. Good news is it's subtle enough that one doesn't need to wear purple with it. But I usually use it as an excuse to do so anyway.

Your comment to Rudals intrigues me. Usually I set out to combine pieces I like in a way that pleases me -- which includes color and textural mix, and of course fit. I would never have thought of describing that as trying to "achieve" something. Do you (or HF) care to elaborate on what's meant?

I think number 4 in my post to Rudals provides a couple of examples. I tend to be rather visual with the concepts I'm trying to communicate while in retrospect I think that HoldFast's original comment to me was perhaps meant to be a bit more figurative. I'm sure Manton will eviscerate me for saying this, but I (at least at this moment) I think CBD could be phrased in this way. There, you want to achieve a sort of restrainted elegance that evokes the professionalism without calling attention to itself at all. Like a well tidied desk - everything in its place and proportion - where the subtleties and details are the secret handshake of the initiated.

An easy example that clothes are used for is status. Others are power, knowledge, cheek... Personally, I like trying to use clothes as a way to diffuse aggression. Being weird and slightly off - but still acceptable, because that's the kind of person I am. The kind of thing that eventually fades back away, but lingers. Something that leaves people with a positive impression but is not totally pinned down. A glance out of the corner of an eye and a smirk that you're not sure what it means. Mischievous with a little bit of playful anarchy is probably also a good way to put it.

I'm not saying I've mastered it or that it always works, but it's the direction I'm trying to head.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
This thread is locked  
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part III