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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part III - Page 4594  

post #68896 of 78723

 

 

 

Not a diss or anything negative, but to my eye that button stance is a bit too high for his build?

post #68897 of 78723
Quote:
Originally Posted by arnathor View Post
 

 

Could be.  It doesn't help that it's now a tad too tight at exactly that point of the torso where the top button falls, which draws attention to that part of the fit.  I'm a bit bigger there then I was when I first got the suit about seven years ago.  Back then there was no buttoning crease to be seen.

 

Getting this right with a three-piece is not all that easy, since in addition to all the usual considerations one needs to take into account the button stance of the waistcoat.

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #68898 of 78723

Thanks,


I am taking a long hard look at my jackets and making sure the button stance isn't too high. That photo helps give me some reference.

post #68899 of 78723
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudals View Post
 

I still have the RED "F-U!" Sam Hober grenade tie. I just don't know when to wear it. Apparently, a whole lot of people wear 'em on Capitol Hill.  

 

People on the Hill are wearing grenades?

Things are worse than I thought ...

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #68900 of 78723
Quote:
Originally Posted by Academic2 View Post
 

 

People on the Hill are wearing grenades?

Things are worse than I thought ...

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

:rotflmao:

post #68901 of 78723
Quote:
Originally Posted by Academic2 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by arnathor View Post

 

Could be.  It doesn't help that it's now a tad too tight at exactly that point of the torso where the top button falls, which draws attention to that part of the fit.  I'm a bit bigger there then I was when I first got the suit about seven years ago.  Back then there was no buttoning crease to be seen.

Getting this right with a three-piece is not all that easy, since in addition to all the usual considerations one needs to take into account the button stance of the waistcoat.

Cheers,

Ac

The simple solution to the "slightly tight jacket, with a somewhat high buttoning point" would be to wear the jacket unbuttoned when worn as part of a three-piece. I almost always wear my three-pieces with the jacket unbuttoned. Otherwise people wouldn't get to view the waistcoat in all it's glory wink.gif
post #68902 of 78723
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pingson View Post


The simple solution to the "slightly tight jacket, with a somewhat high buttoning point" would be to wear the jacket unbuttoned when worn as part of a three-piece. I almost always wear my three-pieces with the jacket unbuttoned. Otherwise people wouldn't get to view the waistcoat in all it's glory wink.gif

 

Yes.  And this is what I almost always do.  I buttoned it here since it was my first time posting a photo, and I didn't want it to look like I was trying to hide anything.

 

My own rule of thumb regarding the relation between the jacket and vest is that at least one and no more than two buttons of the latter should show when the former is buttoned.  The Platonic ideal for me:  just one button of the vest will show, and on a two-button jacket that button is precisely as far above the top button of the jacket as the top button of the jacket is above the bottom button of the jacket.  If two show, the equal-spacing principle would still apply.

 

The three-piece can look great on men of all body types: big, small, fat, skinny.  But that doesn't mean getting the proportions right is easy.

 

Regarding seeing the vest when the jacket is buttoned, as you know there are a lot of suits these days where you can't see even the top button of the vest if the jacket is buttoned.  And I'm not talking about department store brands.  Suit Supply, Charles Tyrwhitt, et al.

 

Honestly, I don't know what those people are thinking.

 

Cheers,

 

Ac


Edited by Academic2 - 1/20/14 at 11:18am
post #68903 of 78723
Quote:
Originally Posted by arnathor View Post
 

Thanks,


I am taking a long hard look at my jackets and making sure the button stance isn't too high. That photo helps give me some reference.

 

:eek:

 

So you’re announcing that henceforth you are using me as an object lesson?

 

Hmmm.

 

Be careful, lad.  I’m thin, but I'm tough.

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #68904 of 78723

@anathor

Not to derail the contributions of others! But since I posted about button stance in the tailor's thread a week ago, here's a link that you might helpful. The experts in this thread can ignore or use it to show others:

 

http://www.styleforum.net/t/265924/the-tailors-thread-fit-feedback-and-alteration-suggestions/4290#post_6868595

 

(I actually think it is post 4304).

 

You'll see a pic of my jacket which has too high of a button stance and a redrawn pic of a lower stance by one of the tailors showing where I wanted the button placed, but didn't adequately communicate this to the company. I wasn't going to complain since this was a remake of a jacket (MTM). I can correct in the next one. It otherwise is a nice clean jacket: I would just lower the stance and also lengthen a bit.

 

The nice thing is the side by side pic which I thought strikingly illustrates why a lower button stance looks better. But judge for yourself.

post #68905 of 78723
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post
 

I'm all about the simple bare excessities.

 

Seriously, poor form to pick at someone's small error in their second language (how many of us write in a forum in a language that's not our own, and flawlessly?), but actually I'm delighted by the accidental invention of this word.  "Excessities" is really what SF is all about: what we consider to be "simple", "getting the basics right" and indeed, "classic and timeless" - the mere baseline, that even in most formal office environments would be considered a vain excess: our "real ancient madders", carefully-selected merino suitcloth, our obsessively-sourced welted shoes and our care in choice of tailor, gorge and buttoning point.  Vain, obsessive, extravagant and irrelevant to the many, and yet somehow vital to the few.  

 

These are our excessities.  Brilliant word, well done.

 

My presence is gonna start, like, a frigging coup d'etat on this bitch:lol::fu:  

 

I'm sorry that I abused the English language with a a word which doesn't exist. Excess and abundance incapsulate huge beards better.

 

My whole-hearted respect for you though mimo, I've read nothing but interesting posts from you.

post #68906 of 78723
Quote:
Originally Posted by eviltimeban View Post
 

 

Not personally (Irish people, especially *Dublin* Irish people, don't really wear them), but they would be one of the more well known makers of those sweaters and would be of very high quality. Aran sweaters especially.

What is the Irish "Irish" sweater then?

post #68907 of 78723

Today.  I got this tie about a month ago (PRL grenadine).  I've had a pretty hard time working it into an outfit. 

 

 

 

 

post #68908 of 78723
Quote:
Originally Posted by An Acute Style View Post
 

Today.  I got this tie about a month ago (PRL grenadine).  I've had a pretty hard time working it into an outfit. 

 

[...]

 

 

Perhaps it’s my monitor, but it’s a little hard to see the tie with a shirt that dark. 

 

The pocket square, on the other hand, pops out quite nicely given its contrast with the jacket, and indeed is one of the first things to catch the eye.  It might be nice if the tie and the shirt exhibited the same degree of contrast, so the viewer’s eye is directed toward, not away from your face.

 

Cum grano salis, of course.  Could be the photo, could be my monitor, or I could be crazy.

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #68909 of 78723
Quote:
Originally Posted by Academic2 View Post
 

 

Perhaps it’s my monitor, but it’s a little hard to see the tie with a shirt that dark. 

 

The pocket square, on the other hand, pops out quite nicely given its contrast with the jacket, and indeed is one of the first things to catch the eye.  It might be nice if the tie and the shirt exhibited the same degree of contrast, so the viewer’s eye is directed toward, not away from your face.

 

Cum grano salis, of course.  Could be the photo, could be my monitor, or I could be crazy.

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

 

The top is a bit dark.  The pants are very very bright so I think it exaggerates the lack of contrast on top.  I think a lighter shirt would have been better.  Best.  

post #68910 of 78723
Dome good lookd today toomany words in drunk sup hemrelmena!!!
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