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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part III - Page 4566  

post #68476 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

Why not? Or is it just cost?

you know the answer already, but ill play along.

it has nothing to do with cost. for what i am willing to pay for things (and im no baller), either option could be more or less expensive.

imo, there are always patterns and fabrics that are just not available outside of RTW. sure, you can find a navy fabric or a check or stripe anywhere, but there are always patterns that just aren't found in swatches.

for example, i really wanted a GP/PoW suit. initially i wanted to get one from panta. he sent me a ton of swatch books, but in the end, none of them spoke to me. then when NMWA opened up they offered the formosa GP/PoW suit that was exactly what i was looking for. the right fabric texture, the right colorway and the right size plaid scale. it was exactly what i wanted. the pattern was cut by formosa from LP fabric.

is it possible that if i scoured every fabric book out there that i could have found that or something like it? maybe yes maybe no. its possible they bought those rolls exclusively, who knows. either way, there will always be items that are available to buy RTW that one wont find in bespoke/custom.

of course the same is true visa versa. i had ed make me 2 suits (one is still in the works) and i dont think i ever would have found those 2 RTW. they were not standard colors and fabrics, and i doubt i would have found anything quite like it in a store. online or B&M.

then there is fit. sure, its nice to have something cut for your body, and yes some people have body types that apparently just dont jive with RTW (i really believe such people are the large minority. with a good tailor most people are more than fine with RTW). still, there are many cuts that can be made, and not every house will make every cut, and if you ask them to veer from the house cut, there is no guarantee that you will like it.

lets go back to formosa for example. they have pretty extreme cutaway quarters, and a very prominent X shape silhouette. in a million years i never would have thought to ask for that, and i would never have thought that it would look as good on me as it does. not to mention, there is a very small likelihood that anyone else would quite replicate that. every house has a cut they do best, and veering from that is often asking for trouble.

again, on the other hand, i love the cut of the suits ed and tiberias made for me, and its unlikely i would find that in RTW either.

certainly you have the best shot of the best fit with bespoke, but tbh, i find that some of the custom stuff i see here, i dont like it. now, thats not my business, it matters that the customer is happy. but going bespoke is no guarantee that you will like the fit/cut, no matter who you use. some RTW brands make cuts that i dont see in bepoke, and of course, many bespoke things fit better and nicer than RTW.

for someone like me, who can find RTW that looks great (imo the RTW i have looks great, now that i have hones in on my size and measurements, and can properly direct my tailor what adjustments to make), i see no reason to abandon RTW. and more than that, i really feel it would be a net loss for me to exclusively use one over the other. they both provide good options for me, and its just a mater of navigating properly and getting what i need and want from each.

more options = better, imho.
Quote:
Also, if that tie is RLPL, I have the same one. Or something very similar. It gets really hard to tell when it comes to large scale green paisleys.

tie is BB 100% wool.
post #68477 of 78717
For me getting clothes made is a lot more than fabrics and fit. It is about a love for the craft, wanting to keep it alive and having relationships with those who put some blood, sweat, and tears into something that I experience my life in.
Edited by patrickBOOTH - 1/14/14 at 11:21am
post #68478 of 78717
Have to agree with pB. Beyond that, I also get a kick out of supporting small businesses that have managed to carve out a niche in a marketplace continually dominated by mediocrity. I feel the same way about small vendors, but there's also something about the perspective that the makers provide that can't be replicated elsewhere.
post #68479 of 78717
Wool ties make the ladies' panties drop.




I have dipped my toe into the MTM and like it so far. I started with Indochino (gasp!) when I was but a wee lad, with eyes unopened to the SF experience. I now have 3 Kent Wang suits and the IC is at Goodwill. I tried KW because I couldn't find a combination of cut and fabric for a particular price range. I like trying things on, but for where I live (Louisville) the options are limited and, save for one store, crap. So I ventured into MTM to try to create what I wanted based on pictures here of people doing what I wanted to do. I like the outcome, but like in stitches I will continue to pursue a mix of MTM and RTW now that more and more stores are online and making their wares available.

Back to regularly scheduled programming...
Edited by CousinDonuts - 1/14/14 at 11:35am
post #68480 of 78717
obviously that is all true, but i see no reason why that would mean a person should not buy anything RTW if it affords him with more possibilities that he will enjoy wearing. im not saying not to go bespoke/custom or support small vendors, i do both of those things very much.

but that is no reason for me to stop buying RTW, and RTW from larger makers, completely, when it has its advantages.
post #68481 of 78717
Exactly, I am a bit of an economic nationalist to a degree. I don't like poor conditions and such. I think the only thing made in a third world country that I wear is my underwear.

I was also told by a few people recently that my usage of the term "third world country" was offensive, but that is another topic.
post #68482 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

obviously that is all true, but i see no reason why that would mean a person should not buy anything RTW if it affords him with more possibilities that he will enjoy wearing. im not saying not to go bespoke/custom or support small vendors, i do both of those things very much.

but that is no reason for me to stop buying RTW, and RTW from larger makers, completely, when it has its advantages.

It is about priorities. A funky fabric will never get me to buy something. It is like buying the fake diamond ring because it appears shinier.
post #68483 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

obviously that is all true, but i see no reason why that would mean a person should not buy anything RTW if it affords him with more possibilities that he will enjoy wearing. im not saying not to go bespoke/custom or support small vendors, i do both of those things very much.

but that is no reason for me to stop buying RTW, and RTW from larger makers, completely, when it has its advantages.

I'm with you Stichy, my stuff is RTW as well, I believe if you find a good style, and it fits you (with minor alterations), then that's not anything to be ashamed of or afraid of. M&S (Marks and Spencer's) do brilliant RTW suits, in fact several Savile Row tailors have gone down on record saying that, value for money and quality-wise, M&S suits are some of the best around. And I agree.

 

For me its more a case of money than anything; I've never had a bespoke or even MTM suit; I would love to but unfortunately my children are rather fond of eating and living in a house so for now its not an option. I find I can express myself with ties and shirts, often from smaller shops, but if I find a good RTW suit then I'm all over it.

 

Having said, I love seeing the MTM and bespoke suits that are on display both here and generally; they inspire me and give me ideas.

post #68484 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

Pattern matching with wallpaper is autofail.
Matching PS with towel rack and shower curtain makes more than up for it IMO.

But seriously, nice fit and pose. Much better than the Sleepy Hollow style mugshots in that regard.
post #68485 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

Exactly, I am a bit of an economic nationalist to a degree. I don't like poor conditions and such. I think the only thing made in a third world country that I wear is my underwear.

I was also told by a few people recently that my usage of the term "third world country" was offensive, but that is another topic.

I don't know that I'm a nationalist. I'd hazard that I'm not. All things being equal I'd rather support a small foreign maker than a large domestic one. I don't equate industrialized with necessarily inferior - though there is certainly a correlation between the two. Because of that I assume that smaller will mean:

1) Greater attention to quality and detail as a necessity of remaining competitive with alternatives whose size provides other advantages.
2) The likelihood of ethical treatment of employees goes up (or at least seems like it should) because in order to maintain the things in 1) you need an experienced work force which is relatively happy.
3) As part of ethical treatment, conditions for workers will be better.

None of this is hard and fast and certainly has limits. Cost and availability certainly factor in to how I make decisions. Sometimes the value proposition for more specialized goods isn't in line with what my priorities are at a given moment, but overall this is where my feeling lies. Even so, there are certain brands that I simply refuse to do business with i.e. those for which the cost of not buying something if they are the only option is less, to me, than the overall cost of engaging and supporting practices that I disagree strongly with.
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

obviously that is all true, but i see no reason why that would mean a person should not buy anything RTW if it affords him with more possibilities that he will enjoy wearing. im not saying not to go bespoke/custom or support small vendors, i do both of those things very much.

but that is no reason for me to stop buying RTW, and RTW from larger makers, completely, when it has its advantages.

I agree with pB here again. It is about priorities and weighing the entire thing. With bespoke/custom not only do I get as close to what I want as possible but I know who is benefiting and can verify (to a certain extent) that my actions align with my principles. That said, I completely agree that there are RTW makers out there which make a product of sufficient quality for me that I can find at prices I want to pay. I like Belvest's stuff. It works and looks good on me. It's not worth full price to me though. The guys at nSuited - provided that you like the items they have available - have created a great opportunity in this regard. Same goes for Ian at Shopthefinest. Both of these and others are great for filling gaps while I'm considering other things as primary purchases in my pipeline.
post #68486 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

It is about priorities. A funky fabric will never get me to buy something. It is like buying the fake diamond ring because it appears shinier.

i dont think your analogy could be more wrong. its actually asinine.

its not about funky fabrics. i bought a navy nailhead suit and a regular GP/PoW suit RTW from NMWA. nothing funky about them. i bought a plain brown SC from a zegna store and a plain blue isaia SC from somewhere else. nothing funky about those either.

none of those are any less real than a bespoke suit from a small maker and i have seen much uglier shinier stuff here from bespoke makers. they were simple fabrics that i liked more than comparable things i found in fabric swatch sets.

the priority for me is to own clothing that i like and that looks good on me. some of that is custom, some of it is from small vendors and some from large names. i am happy to support the little guy, and more often than not i do, but that is no reason not to buy something off a hanger in a store if its nice and looks good.

and dont feed me altruistic bullshit. either you never buy anything that was made or may have been made in a sweatshop or you do. it could be a suit, a wine glass or a roll of toilet paper. either you care or you dont. anyone who half asses that is full of shit.
post #68487 of 78717

Get off the fence and say what you really mean, Stitchy.  Can't stand all this mealy-mouthed beating around the bush.

post #68488 of 78717

TweedyProf - nice first post! Great tie.

 

80 in LA Today:

 

 

Details... (Click to show)

 

 

 

Zegna

Barba

GB Harb

Vintage

RLPL

Florsheim

 
post #68489 of 78717
please also note, there is no shortage of shitty quality items with shitty QC from bespoke makers. there is top notch quality and QC to be found in both RTW and bepoke, as well as there is crap in both.
post #68490 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

i dont think your analogy could be more wrong. its actually asinine.

its not about funky fabrics. i bought a navy nailhead suit and a regular GP/PoW suit RTW from NMWA. nothing funky about them. i bought a plain brown SC from a zegna store and a plain blue isaia SC from somewhere else. nothing funky about those either.

none of those are any less real than a bespoke suit from a small maker and i have seen much uglier shinier stuff here from bespoke makers. they were simple fabrics that i liked more than comparable things i found in fabric swatch sets.

the priority for me is to own clothing that i like and that looks good on me. some of that is custom, some of it is from small vendors and some from large names. i am happy to support the little guy, and more often than not i do, but that is no reason not to buy something off a hanger in a store if its nice and looks good.

and dont feed me altruistic bullshit. either you never buy anything that was made or may have been made in a sweatshop or you do. it could be a suit, a wine glass or a roll of toilet paper. either you care or you dont. anyone who half asses that is full of shit.

You're filling in my very loose analogy and non-literal meaning of "funky fabrics" with assumptions and face value. See what tits wrote.
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