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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part III - Page 4540  

post #68086 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Syeknom View Post
 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

It's nice seeing a black grenadine being used well! Is that suit from the suitsupply outlet?

post #68087 of 78717

Not bought from the outlet but I think I saw it on the site last time I checked. Is indeed a suitsupply from the summer collection. Cheers for the kind words!

post #68088 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Syeknom View Post
 

Not bought from the outlet but I think I saw it on the site last time I checked. Is indeed a suitsupply from the summer collection. Cheers for the kind words!

Thanks, it looks very similar to the one form the outfit. Either way, it looks great! I hardly see monochrome looks like yours around here, so you've definitely inspired me to give it try.

post #68089 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post
 


On advice about adjustments, post here: http://www.styleforum.net/t/265924/the-tailors-thread-fit-feedback-and-alteration-suggestions/4260

 

Despos, who by SF lights is one of the top tailors in the US, is active again in that thread. Some of the stuff he sees I can see once he points it out, some of it I can't, which is to say you'd have an expert eye (see his last comment on what looks to me a pretty decent jacket at the good taste thread). Ask him in the Tailor's thread about your shoulder and what needs to happen there (I'm curious if it's in part an arm hole issue). He'll offer pointers on the rest of your jacket too. Don't let it depress you though...it's food for thought so your next jacket can be better (other tailors there too).

 

I've had one SS MTM done, long story. It came out ok but there are certain fashion forward elements they push (e.g. high button stance) that are hard to push them back on. You can control arm hole size, if that's the issue.

Thanks TP!

 

I posted over there, hope his response is helpful! 

post #68090 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeyface View Post

I've recently helped someone get an MTM suit from suitsupply, and I asked them to make the buttoning point 5cm lower, the jacket a bit longer, put a single pleat in the trousers, side tabs, and 2 inch cuffs. The guy doing the measuring was a knowledgeable fellow who wholeheartedly agreed with this and had no problem doing it. I guess you just have to know what you want and shouldn't be afraid to tell them.

I thought I was clear but not clear enough. But it came out ok. Mtm on first jacket never gonna be perfect. Also Depends on the MTM person I think. I'd try them again, but I think the nicer fabrics are 700+$ and I can't get a 3roll2 with a softer shoulder (London vs Italian options: Roma and Napoli) I thought I might try proper suit. How did your friends turn out?
post #68091 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by faribeana88 View Post

Thanks TP!

I posted over there, hope his response is helpful! 

Let us know what he says.
post #68092 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeyface View Post

Thanks, it looks very similar to the one form the outfit. Either way, it looks great! I hardly see monochrome looks like yours around here, so you've definitely inspired me to give it try.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeyface View Post

I've recently helped someone get an MTM suit from suitsupply, and I asked them to make the buttoning point 5cm lower, the jacket a bit longer, put a single pleat in the trousers, side tabs, and 2 inch cuffs. The guy doing the measuring was a knowledgeable fellow who wholeheartedly agreed with this and had no problem doing it. I guess you just have to know what you want and shouldn't be afraid to tell them.

Btw lowering 5 full cm, about 2 inches! Could be right. I think I got them to go a bit more than half that distance but wish I'd dropped it another inch.
post #68093 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post


I thought I was clear but not clear enough. But it came out ok. Mtm on first jacket never gonna be perfect. Also Depends on the MTM person I think. I'd try them again, but I think the nicer fabrics are 700+$ and I can't get a 3roll2 with a softer shoulder (London vs Italian options: Roma and Napoli) I thought I might try proper suit. How did your friends turn out?

I see what the difference is. That was the full canvas one, so you can get 3 roll 2 and soft shoulders. Doesn't really make sense to compare them then.

post #68094 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeyface View Post
 

I see what the difference is. That was the full canvas one, so you can get 3 roll 2 and soft shoulders. Doesn't really make sense to compare them then.


Was there an option for 3/2 with soft shoulders (maybe available now)? Honestly, I don't remember so clearly. I got the Roma which had a softer shoulder but only two button. The Napolli was deconstructed and being unlined was more expensive, I think (not sure it was a 3/2). The London was heaver in the shoulder and 3/2. They were all full canvas as I recall. I wanted something you might have been able to get in London SS or recent developments for them? Let me know.

post #68095 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post
 

Crusty, I do like you with a dickie.  That's a nice mix of conservative-you and country-you. Professorial-you, perhaps? 

 

Don, that tie and PS are a perfect combination and really well matched with the suit.  Nice pick-up; I'm waiting for a delivery from ET myself...

 

CP, you are off the leash these days, my friend!  Some part of me says that shouldn't work, but it does.  You look quite the dandy, in every positive way possible.

 

 

He is American in pants terminology, Texan in bars, Latino in buttocks and English in Korean dental standards.

 No...I'm not going to say it...

 

 

 

 

 

:uhoh:

post #68096 of 78717

Despos response:

 

Originally Posted by Despos View Post

Doesn't look too bad. Your main concern is to get a smooth fit on your shoulders and since you have sloping shoulders a good MTM program will adjust the slope to match your shoulder line. It's hard to get a jacket to stay up high enough on your neck.

The bigger issue is your overarm measure (chest and arms measured together) in relation to your chest size is problematic. That is the cause of the pulling and stress lines at the base of where the sleeve is attached to the jacket. You need more cloth across the front chest but a larger armhole and sleeve for the jacket size of your chest.

Getting this correct is possible but you want to find a good fitter/tailor that understands how to fit you. If you find this knowledgeable person they probably know the best MTM program to work with. Someone like Jefferyd at Hart Schaffner Marx is the type of tailor you want to find. Maybe the HSM program would work for you.

I focused on the upper body issues because getting that right will make a good looking and comfortable jacket for you. Shaping the waist is easier than fitting your chest properly

Thank you for the kind words

 

 

Now MF and TP, do you know how well SS MTM program is because if I'm going MTM, I'd defnitely want the fully canvassed option.

post #68097 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post
 


Was there an option for 3/2 with soft shoulders (maybe available now)? Honestly, I don't remember so clearly. I got the Roma which had a softer shoulder but only two button. The Napolli was deconstructed and being unlined was more expensive, I think (not sure it was a 3/2). The London was heaver in the shoulder and 3/2. They were all full canvas as I recall. I wanted something you might have been able to get in London SS or recent developments for them? Let me know.

Hmm, that's a very different experience. They might've changed their model in the meantime. Basically you could just list your options and combine any option you'd like, without being bounded by their different cuts. The guy doing the measuring said they're working hard on improving it and offering more options. They're even hoping to offer spalla camicia in a couple of months. I guess the quality of the final product also really depends on who's doing the measuring, meaning that you have to be a bit lucky to get the right person. So it might be safer to go to a more respected tailor in your city, but they're usually more expensive.

post #68098 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by faribeana88 View Post
 

Despos response:

 

Originally Posted by Despos View Post

Doesn't look too bad. Your main concern is to get a smooth fit on your shoulders and since you have sloping shoulders a good MTM program will adjust the slope to match your shoulder line. It's hard to get a jacket to stay up high enough on your neck.

The bigger issue is your overarm measure (chest and arms measured together) in relation to your chest size is problematic. That is the cause of the pulling and stress lines at the base of where the sleeve is attached to the jacket. You need more cloth across the front chest but a larger armhole and sleeve for the jacket size of your chest.

Getting this correct is possible but you want to find a good fitter/tailor that understands how to fit you. If you find this knowledgeable person they probably know the best MTM program to work with. Someone like Jefferyd at Hart Schaffner Marx is the type of tailor you want to find. Maybe the HSM program would work for you.

I focused on the upper body issues because getting that right will make a good looking and comfortable jacket for you. Shaping the waist is easier than fitting your chest properly

Thank you for the kind words

 

 

Now MF and TP, do you know how well SS MTM program is because if I'm going MTM, I'd defnitely want the fully canvassed option.


Cool...this is a nice detailed response from Despos which is why I come to SF. I was close on the arm hole issue.

 

Jeffrey Diduch also is great, though he's less active now, I think.

 

Where do you live? MF will tell you his experiences with MTM at SS, but the options as I was told are all full canvas (many of their RTW is half-canvassed). I was told that the fabrics, which are decent, are cut in Italy and then shipped to China to be sewn. Basic fabrics are cheaper, maybe 450? more interesting fabrics around $700 and up. Note also their button holes are, standardly, higher than I think is liked around here, so as MF said in response to me, be clear what you want.

 

I had the option of changing the arm hole size but sounds like Despos is suggesting something a bit more than that. So....

 

Caveat: The problem is that the MTM specialists at Suit Supply are not necessarily tailors and even if tailors, are probably alteration tailors. For complicated matters, they actually may not be expert enough to help adequately. So, It would be good to establish a relation with a tailor who actually makes suits and is friendly, someone you will go to for your alterations. Even if you won't buy from him/her you can ask their advice on this jacket, so you understand it, then go to SS and explain what you need there.

 

Let me know if I can be any more help. You might at this point enter something in the SS thread since this is off topic for this thread, but others there might have thoughts as will MF. Try JeffreyD at HSM, you might PM him through this forum too.

post #68099 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeyface View Post
 

Hmm, that's a very different experience. They might've changed their model in the meantime. Basically you could just list your options and combine any option you'd like, without being bounded by their different cuts. The guy doing the measuring said they're working hard on improving it and offering more options. They're even hoping to offer spalla camicia in a couple of months. I guess the quality of the final product also really depends on who's doing the measuring, meaning that you have to be a bit lucky to get the right person. So it might be safer to go to a more respected tailor in your city, but they're usually more expensive.


Interesting...I'll try them again. The 3/2 isn't essential, but if I go with them, I will probably do it in NYC or next time I'm in Europe. Thanks for your thoughts. You talked to them in London I take it.

post #68100 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post
 


Cool...this is a nice detailed response from Despos which is why I come to SF. I was close on the arm hole issue.

 

Jeffrey Diduch also is great, though he's less active now, I think.

 

Where do you live? MF will tell you his experiences with MTM at SS, but the options as I was told are all full canvas (many of their RTW is half-canvassed). I was told that the fabrics, which are decent, are cut in Italy and then shipped to China to be sewn. Basic fabrics are cheaper, maybe 450? more interesting fabrics around $700 and up. Note also their button holes are, standardly, higher than I think is liked around here, so as MF said in response to me, be clear what you want.

 

I had the option of changing the arm hole size but sounds like Despos is suggesting something a bit more than that. So....

 

Caveat: The problem is that the MTM specialists at Suit Supply are not necessarily tailors and even if tailors, are probably alteration tailors. For complicated matters, they actually may not be expert enough to help adequately. So, It would be good to establish a relation with a tailor who actually makes suits and is friendly, someone you will go to for your alterations. Even if you won't buy from him/her you can ask their advice on this jacket, so you understand it, then go to SS and explain what you need there.

 

Let me know if I can be any more help. You might at this point enter something in the SS thread since this is off topic for this thread, but others there might have thoughts as will MF. Try JeffreyD at HSM, you might PM him through this forum too.

 

Very true. This will be my last post regarding this fit as it is off topic. But I live in NYC. I may ask crusty where he gets his stuff done (if he would be so kind to share) Problem is everyone here claims to be a master tailor and I'd rather not go and get a jacket messed up by a guy claiming he just came from Savile Row. Despos' response was quite helpful as I now see what the issues are...Being I have wider sloped shoulders, a natural shoulder might do me some good but I'll do more research, talk to more people, and get an idea of what to do exactly. Thanks for all your help and you might be getting a PM from me if I am in further need (which I know I will be)

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Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part III