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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part III - Page 4510  

post #67636 of 78717
clapey, I think those new trousers need more ease in the hips. The pleat shouldn't open up like that, and it's been like that in every picture you've posted so far.
post #67637 of 78717
Luv, the top is all business and the bottom is all casual. You either need a proper sport coat, or make that a suit. Also, the tie is all business and should only be worn with a suit, imo. Also the fold of the square should be a poof unless it is white linen.
post #67638 of 78717
Wearing a suit today, a very rare occurrence

IMG_1276-1.jpg
post #67639 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

clapey, I think those new trousers need more ease in the hips. The pleat shouldn't open up like that, and it's been like that in every picture you've posted so far.

 

when the pleat lies flat the trouser is too baggy and the seat looks like crap. the opposite end of the spectrum would be both pleats and pockets gaping. I believe pleats flaring and pockets flush is the sweet spot. but I'm not sure what the experts say.

 

The fabric on these is very happy and they are far from tight. Especially after a day of running around in them.

post #67640 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

Luv, the top is all business and the bottom is all casual. You either need a proper sport coat, or make that a suit. Also, the tie is all business and should only be worn with a suit, imo. Also the fold of the square should be a poof unless it is white linen.


Thanks pB, I feared that all of the pieces weren't telling the same story. Can anyone inform me or point me in the direction of what features make a navy SC not so orphan-like? I was under the impression that pretty much any navy could be considered a SC provided it wasn't super fine or slick. Could this one get away with swapping the buttons? Are patch pockets necessary, etc?

 

Thanks again for the feedback!

post #67641 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by luv2breformed View Post
 


Thanks pB, I feared that all of the pieces weren't telling the same story. Can anyone inform me or point me in the direction of what features make a navy SC not so orphan-like? I was under the impression that pretty much any navy could be considered a SC provided it wasn't super fine or slick. Could this one get away with swapping the buttons? Are patch pockets necessary, etc?

 

Thanks again for the feedback!


pB and other would know better, but lighter buttons will help (patch pockets too, but you can't change that).

 

But note: most people in the real world won't notice the difference. If you post here, people will. I have a lovely Caruso navy jacket for Hartwood that I thrifted, part of a suit which I happily wear all the time as an orphan (someone in NYC has exactly my measurements...if your old jacket had a pink lining...well I have it!). No one around me (unless secret SFers) knows the difference and I don't worry about it. If it looks good, then fine. But then, I don't post pics of it here either. Someday, I might swap out smokey MOP buttons, but really who has time...

 

I agree, however, on the pocket square.

post #67642 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by luv2breformed View Post

Today for church. I apologize for the weird glare on all the photos, gonna have to check the camera out . . .



I don't know where you are that it is so warm (during this, the coldest weather in a generation) that you ditched your usual three-piece suits for something lightweight...but it makes me hate you, and therefore I hate your outfit! I hope a melting cherry Popsicle stains those light pants!
post #67643 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by luv2breformed View Post


Thanks pB, I feared that all of the pieces weren't telling the same story. Can anyone inform me or point me in the direction of what features make a navy SC not so orphan-like? I was under the impression that pretty much any navy could be considered a SC provided it wasn't super fine or slick. Could this one get away with swapping the buttons? Are patch pockets necessary, etc?

Thanks again for the feedback!

Quote:
Originally Posted by TweedyProf View Post


pB and other would know better, but lighter buttons will help (patch pockets too, but you can't change that).

But note: most people in the real world won't notice the difference. If you post here, people will. I have a lovely Caruso navy jacket for Hartwood that I thrifted, part of a suit which I happily wear all the time as an orphan (someone in NYC has exactly my measurements...if your old jacket had a pink lining...well I have it!). No one around me (unless secret SFers) knows the difference and I don't worry about it. If it looks good, then fine. But then, I don't post pics of it here either. Someday, I might swap out smokey MOP buttons, but really who has time...

I agree, however, on the pocket square.

As stated slightly different buttons, can be lighter, but doesn't have to be. Patch pockets. Also the fabric can be a bit different, not a twill like typical suiting, something like cashmere, hopsack, tweed, etc.

Also, in my mind they can have a bit more prominent handwork like lapped seams and such. The italians tend to lap and pick stitch everything, but it seems that for a bit more casual stuff they make it look a bit more prominent.
post #67644 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post



As stated slightly different buttons, can be lighter, but doesn't have to be. Patch pockets. Also the fabric can be a bit different, not a twill like typical suiting, something like cashmere, hopsack, tweed, etc.

Also, in my mind they can have a bit more prominent handwork like lapped seams and such. The italians tend to lap and pick stitch everything, but it seems that for a bit more casual stuff they make it look a bit more prominent.


Great, thanks for all the help guys! Fabric is a hopsack, so I will swap out the buttons and call it good. Any button suggestions for this jacket? I did some reading and brown horn and smoky MOP seem to be some favorites. I'm leaning toward brown horn to pair with this hopsack.

post #67645 of 78717
I would go with brown.
post #67646 of 78717

I really need your help, guys. This is absolutely out of my comfort zone but this is an attempt at "diversifying" my look. The lighting isn't ideal but here's what I am wearing:

Dark navy blue suit

Blue pin stripe shirt that Claghorn hand picked out for me

Green(?) tie with white and pale blue pin dots

I really would like your thoughts on this. Appreciate it.

post #67647 of 78717
Originally Posted by DonCologne View Post
Originally Posted by Holdfast View Post

That's a really nice jacket, DC. Any details on it?

It´s from the german company Eduard Dressler. This company made the old Burberrys stuff, before they changed their name to Burberry London. Bought that coat from a german outlet internet shop for 100 €.

 

Thanks. I hadn't heard of them before; they have some pretty nice items on their site.

 

Originally Posted by clapeyron View Post
 
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

clapey, I think those new trousers need more ease in the hips. The pleat shouldn't open up like that, and it's been like that in every picture you've posted so far.

 

when the pleat lies flat the trouser is too baggy and the seat looks like crap. the opposite end of the spectrum would be both pleats and pockets gaping. I believe pleats flaring and pockets flush is the sweet spot. but I'm not sure what the experts say.

 

The fabric on these is very happy and they are far from tight. Especially after a day of running around in them.

 

It should be possible to find a sweet spot such that the pleats lie flat, the pockets don't flare, the crotch doesn't look tight and the seat is relatively clean. However, it is really difficult to find that sweet spot and I think it's harder when you don't use braces. At least, that's been my personal experience. Braced trousers have the advantage of being suspended from above which tends to clean things up through the tension. Getting a similarly clean fit with belt or side-adjusters requires greater detail in the pattern, I think. I'm currently trying to fine tune that at the moment - despite have braced trousers that I consider 99% spot-on - and struggling. Perhaps I just need to come to terms with a different set of compromises than I'm used to with braced trousers. Anyway, as it stands, I would tend to agree with sb, even taking account that it was at the end of the day.

post #67648 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by clapeyron View Post

Getting an entire photo session in a 30 second elevator ride. That's iGent.





Cool pants.
post #67649 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Academic2 View Post


Cheers, mate!
post #67650 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudals View Post

I really need your help, guys. This is absolutely out of my comfort zone but this is an attempt at "diversifying" my look. The lighting isn't ideal but here's what I am wearing:
Dark navy blue suit
Blue pin stripe shirt that Claghorn hand picked out for me
Green(?) tie with white and pale blue pin dots
I really would like your thoughts on this. Appreciate it.

Not a fan of the weave of the tie with the squares in the pattern, but I like all the colours together. If it's out of your comfort zone you must be a very conservative fellow smile.gif
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