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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part III - Page 4421  

post #66301 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by edmorel View Post

Jacket length has nothing to do with where it lies in relation to your hands/fingers.

As a rule of thumb (no pun to the hand picture) a jackets length should end at the bottom of ones seat.
post #66302 of 78717

or for someone like me that has a 7"4 wingspan.. if I were to go by that rule, all my jackets would have the length of an over/top coat.. that rule does not always work

post #66303 of 78717
Wow. Unless you're like 6'11" you have freakishly long arms.

I have ET arms myself so I'm just jelly.
post #66304 of 78717
Digging this tie today.





post #66305 of 78717
^ I think choc is like 6'8". And the best explanations I've heard so far for jacket length is long enough in the back to cover your ass and long enough in the front to reach the bottom of your balls. Unless you have really saggy balls, then I guess in that case the bottom would land right above your saggy balls.
post #66306 of 78717
Wow, just flipped through 500+ posts. Some really good stuff here guys! Pingson, as always, makes me proud to be a Swede. Also, Anden, great deal on that Corneliani jacket. I've got 1 Corneliani suit, and it's among my absolute favourites.
post #66307 of 78717

"A good jacket, like a good lawyer, should always be able to cover your ass."


Edited by ridethecliche - 12/13/13 at 1:26pm
post #66308 of 78717

I thought that the jacket hem was supposed to end so that it is the same distance from the ground as the top of your head. Not sure where I heard that.

 

In practice, I generally go by it covering my backside and/or by fingertips curling underneath it.

post #66309 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by luv2breformed View Post
 

 

Pretty sure DC's comments were aimed at Django's fit.

Since I also assume Don's comment was meant for me: Is there a general consensus that said jacket is too short for me?
 
I know my torso/leg ratio is a bit off :embar: But then again I also have relatively long arms and applying the hand rule would put the end of my jacket some 1 or 2 inches further than "covering my ass". Also, I think the photo-angle messes stuff up (iPhone on low desk).

 

Edit: Mods feel free to move this post to the 'Ask a question' thread if needed.

post #66310 of 78717
So this is my first time posting here. Despite some reservations, I decided that the first time I'd either go big or go home. With that said, I've tried to match 4 patterns. The suit is an HF charcoal pinstripe; the shirt is a barba purple check (hard to tell in the photos); the tie is navy with faint purple/green paisleys; and the PS is an off-white by Brioni. Shoes are Grenson Masterpiece for Paul Stuart in burgundy. I have noted the wrinkling in the arms but not sure how to fix. Insight would be appreciated.

I am new to taking photos so I imagine I will get better with practice...apologies in advance for the poor quality. With that said, I'll turn it over to SF for the critique.


post #66311 of 78717

The lines between the neck and the shoulder aren't clean. That's all frumpy.

 

I feel like too much PS is showing. It's a distraction instead of an enhancement.

post #66312 of 78717

When I started here, I was trying to figure out jacket length. There are actually lots of discussion of this in SF, but here's the one I initiated (with some input from Despos and Alex, aka a tailor).

 

http://www.styleforum.net/t/309250/jacket-length-the-right-rule

 

If you treat the rules for length as "rules of thumb" (pun intended), then the rules give you a ball park. However, I think the right answer is that you have to look at the whole body and balance where the jacket falls in relation to your seat, relative to your height, and to your arms (though this latter might be the least important?).

 

These factors can pull against each other. In the end, it's subjective, a matter of what looks good to you and to those who matter (your spouse, your tailor ;)). A sense of tasteful proportion.

 

What you shouldn't put a lot of weight on in the forum is a spot judgment that your jacket is too long based on a shot that shows only the jacket relative to the hand but without showing the entire length of the body. This often happens. You really can't make a good judgment on a "half-pic" although, given the rule of thumb, such judgments might often be about right but only by luck, so to speak.

 

But really, it's a whole body judgment, not based solely on one body part. Or so I've concluded.

post #66313 of 78717
Noted about the PS.

The shoulder line issue seems more pronounced in the 2nd photo, especially on the arm with the phone in hand so I'm inclined to think it may have to do with raising my arm to take the pic
post #66314 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by ridethecliche View Post
 

The lines between the neck and the shoulder aren't clean. That's all frumpy.

 

I feel like too much PS is showing. It's a distraction instead of an enhancement.

+1 on both accounts

 
I also think the jacket sleeves are a bit too long. I can barely see your shirts cuffs. Not sure if this is also related to the wrinkling in the arms (just started here myself, so I am by no means a 'fit' expert).
post #66315 of 78717

The relative size of torso to your leg length matters too. Long legs, shorter torso might want a longer jacket versus short legs and longer torso, even if the subjects are the same height. The former to give more weight to the upper body; the latter to give more emphasis to the length of the leg, to enhance the sense of height. I suspect that for the first body type, a short jacket will make the person look like they have stilts for legs; a long jacket on the other body type will make it seem like they are wearing an overcoat.

 

The jacket length in both cases might not have any correlation to the location of the thumb with arms hanging on the side (but if you had super long arms, you might adjust accordingly). See what I mean?

 

Ok, this is fun because it's an academic-ish exercise. Back to grading.

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