As a rule of thumb (no pun to the hand picture) a jackets length should end at the bottom of ones seat.
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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part III - Page 4421post #66302 of 7871712/13/13 at 12:47pmpost #66303 of 7871712/13/13 at 1:03pmpost #66304 of 7871712/13/13 at 1:11pmpost #66305 of 7871712/13/13 at 1:12pm^ I think choc is like 6'8". And the best explanations I've heard so far for jacket length is long enough in the back to cover your ass and long enough in the front to reach the bottom of your balls. Unless you have really saggy balls, then I guess in that case the bottom would land right above your saggy balls.post #66306 of 7871712/13/13 at 1:13pmWow, just flipped through 500+ posts. Some really good stuff here guys! Pingson, as always, makes me proud to be a Swede. Also, Anden, great deal on that Corneliani jacket. I've got 1 Corneliani suit, and it's among my absolute favourites.post #66307 of 7871712/13/13 at 1:13pmpost #66308 of 7871712/13/13 at 1:34pm
I thought that the jacket hem was supposed to end so that it is the same distance from the ground as the top of your head. Not sure where I heard that.
In practice, I generally go by it covering my backside and/or by fingertips curling underneath it.post #66309 of 7871712/13/13 at 1:35pmSince I also assume Don's comment was meant for me: Is there a general consensus that said jacket is too short for me?I know my torso/leg ratio is a bit off But then again I also have relatively long arms and applying the hand rule would put the end of my jacket some 1 or 2 inches further than "covering my ass". Also, I think the photo-angle messes stuff up (iPhone on low desk).
Edit: Mods feel free to move this post to the 'Ask a question' thread if needed.post #66310 of 7871712/13/13 at 1:35pmSo this is my first time posting here. Despite some reservations, I decided that the first time I'd either go big or go home. With that said, I've tried to match 4 patterns. The suit is an HF charcoal pinstripe; the shirt is a barba purple check (hard to tell in the photos); the tie is navy with faint purple/green paisleys; and the PS is an off-white by Brioni. Shoes are Grenson Masterpiece for Paul Stuart in burgundy. I have noted the wrinkling in the arms but not sure how to fix. Insight would be appreciated.
I am new to taking photos so I imagine I will get better with practice...apologies in advance for the poor quality. With that said, I'll turn it over to SF for the critique.post #66311 of 7871712/13/13 at 1:37pmpost #66312 of 7871712/13/13 at 1:41pm
When I started here, I was trying to figure out jacket length. There are actually lots of discussion of this in SF, but here's the one I initiated (with some input from Despos and Alex, aka a tailor).
If you treat the rules for length as "rules of thumb" (pun intended), then the rules give you a ball park. However, I think the right answer is that you have to look at the whole body and balance where the jacket falls in relation to your seat, relative to your height, and to your arms (though this latter might be the least important?).
These factors can pull against each other. In the end, it's subjective, a matter of what looks good to you and to those who matter (your spouse, your tailor ). A sense of tasteful proportion.
What you shouldn't put a lot of weight on in the forum is a spot judgment that your jacket is too long based on a shot that shows only the jacket relative to the hand but without showing the entire length of the body. This often happens. You really can't make a good judgment on a "half-pic" although, given the rule of thumb, such judgments might often be about right but only by luck, so to speak.
But really, it's a whole body judgment, not based solely on one body part. Or so I've concluded.post #66313 of 7871712/13/13 at 1:46pmpost #66314 of 7871712/13/13 at 1:46pmQuote:
+1 on both accountsI also think the jacket sleeves are a bit too long. I can barely see your shirts cuffs. Not sure if this is also related to the wrinkling in the arms (just started here myself, so I am by no means a 'fit' expert).post #66315 of 7871712/13/13 at 1:50pm
The relative size of torso to your leg length matters too. Long legs, shorter torso might want a longer jacket versus short legs and longer torso, even if the subjects are the same height. The former to give more weight to the upper body; the latter to give more emphasis to the length of the leg, to enhance the sense of height. I suspect that for the first body type, a short jacket will make the person look like they have stilts for legs; a long jacket on the other body type will make it seem like they are wearing an overcoat.
The jacket length in both cases might not have any correlation to the location of the thumb with arms hanging on the side (but if you had super long arms, you might adjust accordingly). See what I mean?
Ok, this is fun because it's an academic-ish exercise. Back to grading.
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