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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part III - Page 3963  

post #59431 of 78723
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ianiceman View Post


As soon as I saw that pic of HF I knew there would be some jizz over the collar roll.

This is a concept which is entirely lost on me. I just don't get it - what makes having a collar roll like that so attractive? I don't even own any button down shirts so its more out of curiosity than desire to emulate.

 

Here is my take on it. If you are going to wear a button down collar, the roll provides a certain aesthetic continuity to the shape of the tie knot, and the blade. Button down collars with no roll leave an unpleasant straight line cutting through what is otherwise a rounded knot, often obscuring it in the process. A standard spread collar, or at least a collar that lays under the jacket lapels leaves the knot with it's shape visible, and also provides a continuity of shape with the lapels, but a button down collar, by definition, cannot do this. Or, the ones that can do it are too widely spread and might as well not be button downs to begin with. In order to maintain proportions, some roll is desirable. The extremity of that roll, however, is up to the user. 

 

Keep in mind that I have no basis for this theory other than my own brain and it is probably wrong. As always, remember that I dress horribly and no one should listen to me.

post #59432 of 78723

Well, I (almost) never wear ties with buttoned down collars; if I'm wearing a tie, I typically wear a spread collar. But when worn open, spread collars can become a bit flattened. The buttondown collar gives some life/focus back to the centre of the look that was lost with the absence of a tie; a generous roll to the collar adds to this central focus. But there's a balance to be struck; too fat a roll and it can be distracting (this one is right on the borderline of that, maybe a smidgen over it).

post #59433 of 78723
Interesting stuff and thanks for the edification. Your explanation CM loses some relevance when it seems that OCBDs are worn more frequently (and in the opinion of some, more correctly) without a tie.

I think HF is correct in assuming its more an American thing. When I was a teenager during the mod revival in England I had some Ben Sherman (or BS replica) shirts, which I always wore with ties and paid zero attention to collar rolls. In time I gravitated away from the look and when I moved over here took a disliking to OCBDs in general, partly due to the preppie connotations with which I wasn't really impressed, and partly because I own a book of Roger Ebert's Movie Reviews and there was a picture of him on the front in a tweed jacket and OCBD unbuttoned with collar roll looking fat and sloppy and schlumpy, so I think it flicked a switch in my head that this look was 180 degrees away from anything I aspired to, and even seeing pics of well executed OCBDs such as HF's today haven't acquired enough momentum to flip that switch back!
post #59434 of 78723

Honestly I have OCBDs without any discernible roll. When I wear those I always wear them tieless. Without a tie the roll, IMO, because unnecessary, so yeah I kind of agree with part of what you're saying. Anyway, as I said, it was just an aesthetic justification for why I think it looks better to have a roll when wearing a tie. I make no claims to understand what is "more correct" or anything like that. That shit just makes my head spin.

post #59435 of 78723


post #59436 of 78723
^^^ Loving this clean, classic look!!! My favorite wardrobe item, a well tailored gray suit.
post #59437 of 78723
post #59438 of 78723
Quote:
Originally Posted by MalfordOfLondon View Post

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This should be pinned as the ultimate refutation of all the silly "blue jacket and grey pants make you look like a security guard" comments.
post #59439 of 78723

^^^ Agreed.

post #59440 of 78723
Quote:
Originally Posted by aravenel View Post

This should be pinned as the ultimate refutation of all the silly "blue jacket and grey pants make you look like a security guard" comments.

You know, I'm not sure anybody actually thinks that. I know people think that other people think that, but I've yet to see such a combination in this thread where the thought even crossed my mind. I've also never seen anyone else ever describe a person's fit as such.

This may be because I live in navy and gray.
post #59441 of 78723
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

You know, I'm not sure anybody actually thinks that. I know people think that other people think that, but I've yet to see such a combination in this thread where the thought even crossed my mind. I've also never seen anyone else ever describe a person's fit as such.

This may be because I live in navy and gray.

Oh, I completely agree that no one thinks that when they see it in real life. But I see comments all the time about not wanting to wear that combination because it "might make them look like a security guard". Saw one just this week, will have to see if I can dig it up.

Granted, I think it was in one of Reevolving's threads, so that doesn't mean much.
post #59442 of 78723
Warm Friday in the South



LBM 1911
Linen shirt from Eton
post #59443 of 78723
I've also never seen a security guard in a navy sport coat with grey trousers.
post #59444 of 78723
Quote:
Originally Posted by aravenel View Post

Oh, I completely agree that no one thinks that when they see it in real life. But I see comments all the time about not wanting to wear that combination because it "might make them look like a security guard". Saw one just this week, will have to see if I can dig it up.

Granted, I think it was in one of Reevolving's threads, so that doesn't mean much.

Reevolving mentioned in the MC Casual thread that the navy jacket/grey pants look is nearly impossible to pull off. Then he posted a pic of some douchey Banana Republic model. I can't think of an easier combo to pull off...but then again this was Reev.
post #59445 of 78723
Quote:
Originally Posted by MalfordOfLondon View Post

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I really don't know if I should spoiler this, cause damn it's fantastic. 

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