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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part III - Page 3959  

post #59371 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scbrown View Post
 

Still trying to find a way to get better photos right now. This room has no good spots


 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

AppleMark

 

AppleMark

 

 

 

Also my shirtmaker just mailed me this shirt and it looked good as fabric and I like it but want to think of some ties that would go with it.

 

Suggestions welcome

 

Deets:

 

Jacket: Brooks Brothers MTM

Pants: Brooks Brothers

Shoes: Allen Edmonds Mora

Shirt: Creery Custom Shirtmakers

Where you're standing is fine.  I'd lower the camera to about belt level.  Zoom in some and crop.  

I'd suggest a solid navy or solid red tie with the shirt.  The navy will look fine, but the red may be a bit matchy for some.  If you want a third color, I'd recommend brown.  

post #59372 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by DerekS View Post




New tie from Conrad Wu! I was super excited to get this around my neck this week. 36oz silk with hand rolled edges and 3 fold construction. Lightweight, great drape, and solid. Jacket is SS, TM Lewin shirt, Yount trous, and G&G Hoves.

Really good stuff, Derek.


(This is assuming the jacket is airforce blue, not airforce purple.)
post #59373 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by gnatty8 View Post

Wore this today. Hotel hallway lighting..


I really dig this combination...like a lot...and stuff.

Question: Are those pants low-rise, or do you have a really long torso?

The pants look formal, but the rise appears low, hence my question. Oh, and forget Tubby McTubberton (Derek), I wear a 38R and will gladly accept any and all victims of said closet thinnings devil.gif
post #59374 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantabrigian View Post

Really good stuff, Derek.


(This is assuming the jacket is airforce blue, not airforce purple.)

thanks C! indeed...it is blue. smile.gif
post #59375 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Victor Elfo View Post

Not sure if my bunch is different from yours, but mine is pretty crisp all day long, except when it's humid. I'm pending to that opinion too. What do you say about fresco for casual wear?


Just for curiosity, db light gray fresco coat with hip patches and dark brown buttons: orphan or not?

Seems to me like there's a bit of a dual nature to fresco - it is immediately different from a worsted even to people who don't care about these things. The texture is obviously and it doesn't stay quite as sharp as a nice heavyweight worsted (though it doesn't really get rumpled). But, on the other hand, it is definitely a suiting cloth.

Those two things together make it pretty much the perfect midweight blazer IMO, assuming the styling is right - at least patch pockets, contrasting buttons and a bluffed edge doesn't hurt.

In the case of an odd grey jacket, you're probably asking the wrong guy since I don't and likely won't have either a DB SC or a plain grey SC.

I worry it would look a bit too much like suiting. But with patch pockets and contrasting buttons, it's not as if it would look like an orphaned suit jacket. So I'd call it a odd jacket in a suiting cloth but I can't imagine that would ever occur to John Q Public.
post #59376 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by RDiaz View Post

My "fresco" trousers stay quite crisp and hold a crease rather well, but I believe it's because they're made from older CrispAire, which is not much of a fresco as it is a regular plain weave worsted.

You've mentioned that before but I can't imagine that's really the case.

Fresco is a plain weave (over one - under one - over one - under...) but it isn't a worsted. The yarns are twisted and then twisted again so that they twist back over themselves. Which is why you should see a grid pattern of light when you hold it up to the light. You won't get anything like that with a worsted.
post #59377 of 78717

Well, the CrispAire description does say "100% wool worsted suiting".

post #59378 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by RDiaz View Post

Well, the CrispAire description does say "100% wool worsted suiting".

I'd suspect that refers to the fact that it's all worsted wool yarns.

Perhaps I've been using the term incorrectly but when talking about cloth, a worsted would refer to a plain or twill woven cloth. Hopsack, serge, cavalry twill, covert twill or fresco would be called by more descriptive names referring to the type of weave.
post #59379 of 78717
I see what you mean, however, since fresco is a plain weave after all, isn't the openness of the weave what makes it a fresco? I just think the older crispaire isn't open enough to be classified as such...
post #59380 of 78717

Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't "Fresco" a specific brand name just as much as "CrispAire"?  Seems to me it has become one of those shorthands that, colloquially, now covers more than the original - like Hoover or Sellotape (Scotch Tape over the Pond), etc.  In this case, I think "fresco" has been used to describe all sorts of light and/or breathable wool cloths.  So, er, maybe you're both right?

post #59381 of 78717
It's not so much that the weave is 'open,' as I guess you're using the term. You can't really leave space between the yarns in a plain weave. I mean you can but you'd describe that as a loose weave and it'd get all jumbled up and lack structure.

The threads are woven together tightly - hence the crisp hand of the cloth - but there is some space beterrn the threads because they are somewhat irregular due to the extra twisting.
post #59382 of 78717
From Kabbaz's hugely informative essay on shirtings (fresco being similar to voile in this regard)

TwistScan.jpg

Both fresco and plain weave are over one / under one type weaves in both the warp and weft. The difference is that your plain weave - your generic (non twill) worsted is made with yarns like the top one. Fresco would be made with yard like the bottom one.
post #59383 of 78717
Well, put it this way, when put against the light, it looks just like other generic plain weave lightweight wool trousers I own. lets through some light, but not that much. the newer crispaire is more breathable according to edmorel...
post #59384 of 78717
post #59385 of 78717
^^Butch.....love the PS...is it drakes?
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