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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part III - Page 3946post #59176 of 787249/1/13 at 10:43am
Styleforum Top Pickspost #59177 of 787249/1/13 at 11:04amUnlined dupioni silk suit: Beckett & Robb
Linen shirt: Luxire
Lined and raised saddle leather belt: Equus
Calfskin shoes: Johnston & Murphy
Grenadine Tie: Hober
Madder pocket square: Shibumi
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
This is my first ever completely unstructured/unlined jacket. Thinking it might need to be nipped in just a bit at the waist.post #59178 of 787249/1/13 at 11:37ampost #59179 of 787249/1/13 at 11:40ampost #59180 of 787249/1/13 at 12:36pmpost #59181 of 787249/1/13 at 2:26pmKai, the left shoulder looks a bit wonky, kind of like it was cut to accommodate a shoulder pad. Don't know if the lapel pulling away from your neck is just a matter of position, but if it looks that way at rest, it likewise could use some attention. For your next B&R commission, you might consider having the breast pocket placed closer to the lapel.
Maybe wear it a few times and take it back to B&R if the fit issues don't settle out?
I like the color and cut in general, though!post #59182 of 787249/1/13 at 2:40pmQuote:Originally Posted by sugarbutch
Kai, the left shoulder looks a bit wonky, kind of like it was cut to accommodate a shoulder pad. Don't know if the lapel pulling away from your neck is just a matter of position, but if it looks that way at rest, it likewise could use some attention. For your next B&R commission, you might consider having the breast pocket placed closer to the lapel.
The shoulder might be simply a function of not having any sort of padding to smooth the fall of the sleevehead.
I agree though that the collar is a good deal too loose. Cleaning that up will make the jacket look better in its own right and, likely, save you from showing the collar points on your fairly spread shirt.post #59183 of 787249/1/13 at 2:55pmpost #59184 of 787249/1/13 at 3:09pmpost #59185 of 787249/1/13 at 3:30pmpost #59186 of 787249/1/13 at 3:33pmQuote:Originally Posted by Master-Classter
Also, I cringe when seeing the cuffs shortened and the buttons so close to the edge. RTW suits with functional cuffs are dumb but even more so when they aren't scaled with the sizes. I've passed on too many suits because I knew I'd have to shorten the sleeves and they were functional so it was pointless to buy because the buttons would end up at the sleeves edge and I think that looks really bad. Ie, if your sleeve buttons aren't functional, I would suggest removing the first one and having the buttonhole stitching removed so you have closer to the normal 1-1.5' of space there. Otherwise, just something to watch out for in future. To me it's such a clear sign the suit was altered around to 'make it work'. Of course most items are RTW, not bespoke/MTM, but let's at least try to maintain the illusion huh?
Don't most alterations tailors shorten the sleeves at the sleeve head for jackets with working cuffs?post #59187 of 787249/1/13 at 4:10pmpost #59188 of 787249/1/13 at 4:54pmpost #59189 of 787249/1/13 at 5:06pm
Ooooof, that's pricey. I've an excellent alterations tailor who charges $70 total for working sleeves and $30 for non-working. I generally avoid rtw working sleeves as well, though I'd probably make an exception if I ever came across a jacket I really liked.
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- HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part III
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