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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part III - Page 3946  

post #59176 of 78723

Working (teaching, this time) on a Sunday...

 

BvE42O5.jpg

post #59177 of 78723
Unlined dupioni silk suit: Beckett & Robb

Linen shirt: Luxire

Lined and raised saddle leather belt: Equus

Calfskin shoes: Johnston & Murphy

Grenadine Tie: Hober

Madder pocket square: Shibumi

Watch: Omega

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)





This is my first ever completely unstructured/unlined jacket. Thinking it might need to be nipped in just a bit at the waist.
post #59178 of 78723
Quote:
Originally Posted by PointDexter2014 View Post

Don since I've joined this forum your posting have always been on point.  Keep up your style and fashion mission going forward.

How a big man should do it. Looks great.

post #59179 of 78723

ffffuuuu.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

Back up.



post #59180 of 78723
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Holdfast View Post

Working (teaching, this time) on a Sunday...

BvE42O5.jpg

very nice Holdfast...
post #59181 of 78723
Kai, the left shoulder looks a bit wonky, kind of like it was cut to accommodate a shoulder pad. Don't know if the lapel pulling away from your neck is just a matter of position, but if it looks that way at rest, it likewise could use some attention. For your next B&R commission, you might consider having the breast pocket placed closer to the lapel.

Maybe wear it a few times and take it back to B&R if the fit issues don't settle out?

I like the color and cut in general, though!
post #59182 of 78723
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

Kai, the left shoulder looks a bit wonky, kind of like it was cut to accommodate a shoulder pad. Don't know if the lapel pulling away from your neck is just a matter of position, but if it looks that way at rest, it likewise could use some attention. For your next B&R commission, you might consider having the breast pocket placed closer to the lapel.

The shoulder might be simply a function of not having any sort of padding to smooth the fall of the sleevehead.

I agree though that the collar is a good deal too loose. Cleaning that up will make the jacket look better in its own right and, likely, save you from showing the collar points on your fairly spread shirt.
post #59183 of 78723
Very well could be, Canta.
post #59184 of 78723
pretty much agree with canta and SB, but outside of that, lovely look, kai.

HF - very nice.
post #59185 of 78723

Another outfit from the work

 

See details (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

 

post #59186 of 78723
Quote:
Originally Posted by Master-Classter View Post

Also, I cringe when seeing the cuffs shortened and the buttons so close to the edge. RTW suits with functional cuffs are dumb but even more so when they aren't scaled with the sizes. I've passed on too many suits because I knew I'd have to shorten the sleeves and they were functional so it was pointless to buy because the buttons would end up at the sleeves edge and I think that looks really bad. Ie, if your sleeve buttons aren't functional, I would suggest removing the first one and having the buttonhole stitching removed so you have closer to the normal 1-1.5' of space there. Otherwise, just something to watch out for in future. To me it's such a clear sign the suit was altered around to 'make it work'. Of course most items are RTW, not bespoke/MTM, but let's at least try to maintain the illusion huh?

Don't most alterations tailors shorten the sleeves at the sleeve head for jackets with working cuffs?
post #59187 of 78723
Back from a bit of a break.





Coat: Herringbone Sydney
Shirt: Kamakura
Tie: Henry Carter Navy knit
Trousers: Henry Carter 4 seasons protoype
Shoes: Meermin suede austerity brogues
post #59188 of 78723
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

Don't most alterations tailors shorten the sleeves at the sleeve head for jackets with working cuffs?
as is the case here, clearly not right? I'm a 34-36s so shortening a sleeve is almost assumed, but then again I'm usually buying fairly cheapish suits so paying $150 to shorten sleeves is a big alteration cost or I wouldn't trust the tailor to play with shoulders anyway, so in my case I usually just pass on the suit. I wouldn't say 'most shorten the sleeves from the sleevehead', I'd say 'most tailors want to do as little work as possible or run the lowest risk of making a costly mistake and charge whatever they can'... I'm just pointing out that in particular, with guys off the curve, whether it's Don's larger build or my shorter stature, the little details like length, button placement, cuffs, etc are important. In this case, I think DC just bought a new suit and they shortened the sleeves from the cuff even though they were functional, and it looks bad, and it's a brand new suit! I think everyone should just do basted sleeves for suit jackets and unfinished hems on pants. Why manufacturers pick a magic number off the bell curve and assume it's good enough, and customers just buy it and walk out without finishing it properly always amazes me.
post #59189 of 78723

Ooooof, that's pricey. I've an excellent alterations tailor who charges $70 total for working sleeves and $30 for non-working. I generally avoid rtw working sleeves as well, though I'd probably make an exception if I ever came across a jacket I really liked.

post #59190 of 78723
HC, I was really expecting that to be a suit. With the odd trousers, I think a non-navy tie would have been better.
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