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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part III - Page 3718  

post #55756 of 78724
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eli Dion View Post

Love the colour of the suit and the colour combinations. Just a question though: in the 2nd pic, is it just the way your arms are held or are the sleeves of the suit just a tad short?

 

Thanks. I guess the sleeves "rolled up" a little bit while taking the second picture; the first one is a more accurate reflection of the real length.

post #55757 of 78724
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sprezziamo View Post

 

Thanks. I guess the sleeves "rolled up" a little bit while taking the second picture; the first one is a more accurate reflection of the real length.

In the first picture, the sleeves are still short by most standards.  I'd say the sleeves should be about an inch longer.  In fact, if this is off the rack, I'd recommend going up a size.  The chest appears to be buckling at the lapels and there appears to be a bit of collar gap.  Nothing huge, but I think a slightly bigger jacket would help.    

post #55758 of 78724
Quote:
Originally Posted by An Acute Style View Post

In the first picture, the sleeves are still short by most standards.  I'd say the sleeves should be about an inch longer.

 

+1

post #55759 of 78724
Not one to usually critique in here, but there's um, how do I put this, some very questionable combos over the last few pages. YR, that pin..... CM, those trousers,... MF, not sure about yours bit too much going on I think (monks, DB, club collar, PS etc etc) it needs simplifying a bit and Butler (surprisingly) the belt and tie, not up to your usual very high standards I'm afraid. Also don't think the lighter linen trousers work with the mid blue shirt, should be lighter blue.

Clapey nice swing.
post #55760 of 78724
Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Carter View Post

CM, those trousers

 

Unapologetic.

post #55761 of 78724
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caustic Man View Post

My opinion? That ^^^ is not good. Small shirt pattern + small tie pattern = awkward looking. PS melts into the jacket and offers nothing interesting. Jacket is too short in all respects. Also, there is something weird going on with the shoulders. Maybe just the sleeves need to be rotated. The tie knot also makes me want to cry. In fact I'm going to start crying right now.

 

Thanks for your feedback. I see your point on small patterns, I know the rule but while in front of the mirror I decided that, according to me, it looked good anyway. I can obviously be wrong, so I'd like to hear other opinions on this. In case, I'll avoid this combo in the future.

 

I decided to use a low-contrast PS since I already had 4 patterns in my outfit, and I thought that a high-contrast PS would have been too much.

 

Could you elaborate on the sleeve rotation issue? I'm honestly not an expert on this and I never really understood how to identify the need for a rotation, and whether it is worth it in a mid-level suit.

 

About the knot, I already had a short discussion yesterday. I really like how the Windsor looks like with wide spread collars, and being widely used in the cities where I live/work (less than 50% of the people use a 4IH) I'm positive nobody will raise an eyebrow for that. Following some member's advice I'll try to use the half Windsor a bit more. As I mentioned yesterday, I personally find the 4IH asymmetric and way too informal for business attire, and I met many people (senior employees at my firm in particular, whose opinion is highly relevant to me, since I "represent" their firm) who agree. It might be an Italian thing though (or even more precisely, a Milanese thing, I'm not sure about Rome and Naples).

 

P.S. - DonCologne also suggested a double 4IH knot, which, if I remember correctly, was Gianni Agnelli's favourite choice. I'll try that one soon as well. 

 

 


Quote:
Originally Posted by An Acute Style View Post

In the first picture, the sleeves are still short by most standards.  I'd say the sleeves should be about an inch longer.  In fact, if this is off the rack, I'd recommend going up a size.  The chest appears to be buckling at the lapels and there appears to be a bit of collar gap.  Nothing huge, but I think a slightly bigger jacket would help.    

 

Well, I bought this at Suitsupply, and I spent a decent amount of time trying both the 46 (Italian), that I ended up buying, and the 48. After careful consideration, both me and the SS assistant decided that the 46 was a better choice, since a 48 would require too many alterations and end up looking not so great. Also, SS doesn't allow you to buy different sizes for jacket and trousers. What do you guys think about their MTM? Since apparently the 46 isn't a good fit either, I might try it for my next suit. (I forgot to add that the sleeves are already lengthen as much as possible).

 

EDIT - Taking a look at SuitSupply's website, the Sienna fits the model pretty much like me. (http://eu.suitsupply.com/abiti/abito-blu-tinta-unita-sienna-p3485/P3485,it,pd.html?start=8&cgid=Suits&prefn1=styleFit&prefv1=Luxury-Sienna) Do you think that some of the problems you pointed out, about the length of the jacket in particular, might be related to a stylistic choice (which I reckon is very fashion-forward, but for a 23 years old guy working close to Via Monte Napoleone that would not be a big problem) rather than a poor fit?


Edited by Sprezziamo - 7/27/13 at 5:32pm
post #55762 of 78724
Quote:
Originally Posted by Henry Carter View Post

Not one to usually critique in here, but there's um, how do I put this, some very questionable combos over the last few pages. YR, that pin..... CM, those trousers,... MF, not sure about yours bit too much going on I think (monks, DB, club collar, PS etc etc) it needs simplifying a bit and Butler (surprisingly) the belt and tie, not up to your usual very high standards I'm afraid. Also don't think the lighter linen trousers work with the mid blue shirt, should be lighter blue.

Clapey nice swing.

Yeah, I'm overcompensating for dressing UCBD all week long. I have to wear everything that I'd like to wear in just two days a week. A club collar and DB work together though, and a white linen square isn't exactly overkill either. I think it would've been a good combination if I'd wear it with brown captoes and a simple tie, perhaps solid brown.

It kind of makes me sad though, as there is no point in buying new clothes anymore, as I won't have time to wear them anyway. Maybe I'll start working on refining the CBD look.
post #55763 of 78724

In my opinion, the club collar or the monks would be enough "fun" for this particular outfit. Also, is this particular grenadine pattern called rep? I'm not very familiar with the nomenclature.

post #55764 of 78724
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sprezziamo View Post

Well, I bought this at Suitsupply, and I spent a decent amount of time trying both the 46 (Italian), that I ended up buying, and the 48. After careful consideration, both me and the SS assistant decided that the 46 was a better choice, since a 48 would require too many alterations and end up looking not so great. Also, SS doesn't allow you to buy different sizes for jacket and trousers. What do you guys think about their MTM? Since apparently the 46 isn't a good fit either, I might try it for my next suit. (I forgot to add that the sleeves are already lengthen as much as possible).

 

EDIT - Taking a look at SuitSupply's website, the Sienna fits the model pretty much like me. (http://eu.suitsupply.com/abiti/abito-blu-tinta-unita-sienna-p3485/P3485,it,pd.html?start=8&cgid=Suits&prefn1=styleFit&prefv1=Luxury-Sienna) Do you think that some of the problems you pointed out, about the length of the jacket in particular, might be related to a stylistic choice (which I reckon is very fashion-forward, but for a 23 years old guy working close to Via Monte Napoleone that would not be a big problem) rather than a poor fit?

 You might be a 47 then.The 36 is a little too small.. the chest buckles when you are standing straight which means the suit is too narrow for your chest in which the only remedy RTW wise is to size up..the sleeves are about an inch short but most SS suits will give you about an inch and a half to lengthen..you might have to add a 5th button though..the length of the coat is almost too short but honestly these days that's a matter of preference. I gave you a thumbs up because I like the idea you were going after and honestly its not a catastrophe..I like the smaller patterns.. that's my style.. I think when you use larger patterns, when done wrong ( which I feel is most of the time) comes off garish and makes that person look like a noob douche..the sleeve rotation just means the wrinkling on the back end of your sleeve..your sleeve pitch is off and that is why the back end of your sleeve wrinkles..an experienced tailor just needs to detach the sleeve rotate it too follow the natural stance of your arm and then re-attach it (which might sometimes mean the tailor may have to recut your sleeve depending on how far off it is)..honestly for that I would not pursue the rotation if you cannot find a competent tailor that can help..and honestly its hardly noticeable from the pictures you posted..I hope this helps..

post #55765 of 78724

I guess it's just personal preference, Monkeyface. It seems like a bit too much, and the rounded collar seems odd with the sharp peak lapels.

 

HC, do you object to pins, period, or to that pin, which is a bad example of the breed?
 

post #55766 of 78724
If I may guess, Butler's cuffs on his trousers are at least 3 or 4 inches. For some reason, it'd would look silly on anyone else to my eye; but not for Butler.
post #55767 of 78724
clags - superb fit.

clap - great pents, awesome gif.


PSG - there a sword outside my office at word. should i be incorporating it into my fits?
post #55768 of 78724
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pieceofsand View Post

If I may guess, Butler's cuffs on his trousers are at least 3 or 4 inches. For some reason, it'd would look silly on anyone else to my eye; but not for Butler.


2 1/2 inch (6 cm)
bigstar[1].gif
post #55769 of 78724
Quote:
Originally Posted by YRR92 View Post

I guess it's just personal preference, Monkeyface. It seems like a bit too much, and the rounded collar seems odd with the sharp peak lapels.

HC, do you object to pins, period, or to that pin, which is a bad example of the breed?

 
Not really but they are really really hard to pull of convincingly, and they should be a proper collar pin not a safety pin type fastener. I also think they don't really work just by putting a pin through a point collar shirt, reason being that most point collar shirts don't have the tie space required for it not to look all squashed up. Sorry! But I hope that was constructive.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Caustic Man View Post

Unapologetic.

If I can elaborate now I've got a bit more time. The trousers aren't the problem, the problem is you've got the sartorial equivalent of a mullet going on. Business up top, party down below and it doesn't gel. The top with blazer, CBD tie and blue button down really just needs grey trousers or something. Orange trousers could work with say loafers (minus the fun socks), a linen/cotton navy blazer and a linen shirt, couple of buttons un-buttoned.
post #55770 of 78724
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caustic Man View Post

My opinion? That ^^^ is not good. Small shirt pattern + small tie pattern = awkward looking. PS melts into the jacket and offers nothing interesting. Jacket is too short in all respects. Also, there is something weird going on with the shoulders. Maybe just the sleeves need to be rotated. The tie knot also makes me want to cry. In fact I'm going to start crying right now.

...

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