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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part III - Page 3355  

post #50311 of 78723
Quote:
Originally Posted by Holdfast View Post

 

BTW, I forgot to comment earlier on RDiaz's jacket and his feeling of discontent about its silhouette. Personally, I would agree with those thinking it looks very nice in general, but would benefit from a somewhat less cutaway front. Apart from that, I like the rest of its appearance. Of course, the more important thing is whether he likes it. If not, before ordering another jacket, it would be worth figuring out what he'd ideally like from a jacket that this one isn't giving him rather than over-focusing on individual construction elements i.e. take a holistic look for an archetype of the kind of jacket he wants and then finding out whether his tailor likes making that sort of jacket.

 

 

nice consultation.  errrr...   comment, Dr H   biggrin.gif

 

 

yeah RD if u stick with this u can't go wrong-  looks great

post #50312 of 78723
Friday Challenge poll is up! http://www.styleforum.net/t/345654/friday-challenge-20130426-the-forvm-does-not-approve/0_50
post #50313 of 78723

I went to the Opera to see Aida in Rio. Trust me, I was definitely overdressed. Pay no mind to the weird angle in the first pic, the girlfriend is 5'4" while I am 6'5". The right sleeve (left on the pic) is not short, must be snagging in the jacket. 

Trousers have a very small check pattern that I really like (I bought it at Zara in Rome). Shirt is pale green.

 

 

 

 

 

post #50314 of 78723

Thanks for the comments, gents. The finished jacket that came from the factory didn't have concave shoulders, they were straight diagonal lines. Then I asked the tailor to remove as much padding as possible - the effect I really wanted was that of a soft, convex shoulder with roping, like this:

 

 

 

 

He did, but he also adjusted for forward shoulders and only then the shoulders became concave. We need to work on that, because I believe if the long front balance problem is fixed, I won't need that adjustment. I don't think I can get a drape, or Neapolitan cut jacket from him (and won't try to), but I believe convex, soft shoulders should be achieveable, along with much less open quarters. Will work on that, either with this tailor or with a new one smile.gif

post #50315 of 78723


post #50316 of 78723

Jeeze Crat! That is killer right there..what is that flannel.. and the last couple days, I have seen some awesome 3 button looks that it makes me feel good about my decision to work on the 3 button suit that I have..

post #50317 of 78723

Crat-  !!!  that rocks.

 

Diaz-   V le V's  jacket is Neapolitan bespoke IIRC ...  others'll know better than me, but is that look achievable by remedial work on a jacket made with an entirely different object? If I can use a car analogy, putting hardened cams in a stock plant will like as not put the whole thing out of whack rather than provide more grunt- I like Holdfast's gestalt approach.

post #50318 of 78723
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brickbone View Post

Diaz-   V le V's  jacket is Neapolitan bespoke IIRC ...  others'll know better than me, but is that look achievable by remedial work on a jacket made with an entirely different object? If I can use a car analogy, putting hardened cams in a stock plant will like as not put the whole thing out of whack rather than provide more grunt- I like Holdfast's gestalt approach.

It's just a picture I used to illustrate soft and roped shoulders, which aren't exclusive to Neapolitan tailoring. And if you remove padding, you need to re-cut the shoulder to a more sloped shape, of course.

post #50319 of 78723
Several weeks old, but I packed my gloves away not too long ago and somehow want to get them out again frown.gif. From a shoe launch event of Justin/The Shoe Snob at Gieves&Hawkes


dsc_66211.jpg?w=830&h=553
post #50320 of 78723

 

 

 

 

post #50321 of 78723
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crat View Post




Jesus Christ, you look like my roommate.

Nice pattern on your suit. I now see why you have a solid shoe collection.
post #50322 of 78723
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Miler View Post

Today's three-piece suit. Pants are a bit uncommon because they almost reach my navel. A lot of people laugh that it is almost Fred Astaire's style but I like it that way because they hide my belly :D I also had the suspender buttons put on the outside. In the back it prevents the buttons being pressed into my flesh when driving.

 

Since I've been lifting weights for years, my shoulders are quite large and I use pleats on the back of the shirt to be able to extend my arms easily. The lower back of the shirt is also adjusted to my body architecture.

 

Below a full view with vest and jacket. The jacket has 3 buttons and diagonal pockets. There are no vents in order to make it better fitted around my hips (this is a bit uncomfy though).

 

 

Here you see the lapels on the vest and on the jacket. It's all herringbone! :D 

 

Pictures: Katarzyna Łukowicz

Suit: Krupa & Rzeszutko tailoring in Poznań, Poland

This isn't just good, it's truly excellent. I especially like the prewar style braces buttons on the outside of the pants.

post #50323 of 78723

Spring is here. Linen jackets and (purple) linen ties for all. (Ms. C was needing a sympathetic ear, hence the phone).

 

post #50324 of 78723
post #50325 of 78723
Quote:
Originally Posted by RDiaz View Post

I think the pic is over-emphasizing the pagoda effect.

Here's the same jacket:










What is the lapel width of the coat? I'd take in a bit, slightly closed front but other than that, would not touch anything.
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