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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part III - Page 3351

post #50251 of 75540

Poasting for the friday challenge...

 

When I first got this jacket I was happy with the shoulder expression, but the more I look at it, the more I dislike the overall silhouette. Can't quite figure out what to do to make future commissions look better, perhaps it's just my body shape. I was thinking some more shoulder extension, leaner chest, less padding, fuller sleeves and more closed quarters, but I can't be sure about the results. 

 

 


Edited by RDiaz - 4/26/13 at 2:40am
post #50252 of 75540

I agree the shoulders are extended enough, and I love the roping.  I don't think that's your problem.  The collar and lapel spread quite wide which narrows the appearance of the shoulder a touch, but again I rather like the style.  When I look at it, what draws me is that the quarters look very open, tapering away a bit too much, and also perhaps the skirts are just an inch or less too long. The overall effect is to make a triangle of trousers that's more prominent than your triangle of shirt, and therefore makes you look bottom-heavy. 

 

There's probably not much you can do about the cut of the quarters now, but I think three things might make you feel better about this pic next time you take it: first, take the jacket up just a tiny bit higher.  Second, don't wear patterned trousers with this one as you want to diminish the bottom half of the picture rather than accentuate it.  And third, I'm not sure what camera you have, but I know my little pocket one really exaggerates perspective.  So try taking the picture from a slightly higher vantage point, somewhere between the chest and the navel: I think this angle is too low, and also making you look bottom-heavy.

 

But you know what?  My first impression was "nice jacket", so sometimes maybe we just over-analyse...and I'd be interested to see what the more knowledgeable tailoring gurus have to say.

post #50253 of 75540

I am actually bottom heavy, and both the open quarters and the camera angle exaggerate it. Nice tailoring should be able to account for that. But even if I just look at the top part of the jacket, there's something I don't quite like. Can't figure out what it really is...

post #50254 of 75540
Quote:
Originally Posted by RDiaz View Post

I am actually bottom heavy

 

Yes, I remember your particular fixation on this!

 

Re. the shoulders, I'm wondering if as well as the slight extension, they might be a little too deep i.e. not sitting flush against the front of your shoulder.  It could just be the way you're standing, but it doesn't seem to be lying too closely or evenly against the top of your torso, especially on your right, while the waist is clearly quite fitted.

 

I don't want to overblow this though - overall it's really quite nice.  But you're right, if it's tailored it should be perfect.  The extremely low standards of my own local tailors might be making me too tolerant!

post #50255 of 75540

Yeah, there's room at the top front, perhaps because I asked for a roomier chest. I shouldn't have done such a thing with MTM (bespoke would have been a different animal, as the excess could have been manipulated to drape gracefully). I think it would look better if the chest was leaner, and the shoulders wider (at the top of the armscye only - I'm not talking about point-to-point measurement).

post #50256 of 75540

Just noticed my pocket is damaged! On top of that the sunny weather of yesterday is gone, it's such a gloomy day. Luckily it's Friday!

 

 

post #50257 of 75540
X-post The Friday Challenge.

Today's attire was determined by the Friday Challenge here. The theme for today was "breaking rules" - at least the local ones over here. Requirements were for wearing a white shirt and a red tie with a sports jacket - extra violation points for black footwear. I've added the supreme sin of wearing navy blue odd trousers with my sports jacket - a big no-no over here as well.

Ironic to say, 99.9% of my colleagues, friends, and perfect strangers wouldn't notice the difference between my usual mode of attire, and this allegedly transgressive outfit. Whether that is because I'm always "transgressive", or that the "rules" of SF are too obscure to be followed, I leave to the discretion of the viewer.

Blazer & trousers - BB
Shirt - Ike Behar
Tie - PRL
Cufflinks - Penhaligon's
PS - no name brand
Boots - Cheaney, via Harrod's


Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)







post #50258 of 75540
Quote:
Originally Posted by RDiaz View Post

Poasting for the friday challenge...

 

When I first got this jacket I was happy with the shoulder expression, but the more I look at it, the more I dislike the overall silhouette. Can't quite figure out what to do to make future commissions look better, perhaps it's just my body shape. I was thinking some more shoulder extension, leaner chest, less padding, fuller sleeves and more closed quarters, but I can't be sure about the results. 

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

 

Diaz gotta agree -  way below yr usual stellar fits.  The silhouette is more  morning-dress-at-Royal-Ascot than 2013 Madrid.  The roped and pagoda'd shoulder is mannered; the  baggy-legged plaid could be from my grandfather's closet; and worse still the  black oxfords and white shirt shouldn't be in the same room with that beautiful summery Drakes? square.

post #50259 of 75540
crusty.......those boots are fucking fantastic!
post #50260 of 75540
Quote:
Originally Posted by DerekS View Post

crusty.......those boots are fucking fantastic!

Thank you, Derek. I found them at Harrod's a couple of years ago - within hours of landing at Heathrow - and searched the town for anything better, for well over a week, and couldn't find their equal, so I bought them.
post #50261 of 75540
Quote:
Originally Posted by RDiaz View Post

Yeah, there's room at the top front, perhaps because I asked for a roomier chest. I shouldn't have done such a thing with MTM (bespoke would have been a different animal, as the excess could have been manipulated to drape gracefully). I think it would look better if the chest was leaner, and the shoulders wider (at the top of the armscye only - I'm not talking about point-to-point measurement).

Diaz, I think the top half looks pretty good--its the bottom of the jacket that looks a bit strange IMO.

The only thing I can conclusively say I'd change is closing the quarters a wee bit. Don't go all the way, but they are Liverano-style open right now, and that isn't working for you. I also think the jacket may be a bit long, which could lend a bit to the "morning dress" look that Pliny mentioned. Beyond that... I don't really know what else to change frown.gif I'm wondering if the button stance should be moved up a bit to add a bit more to the waist suppression, but I'm not sure frown.gif
post #50262 of 75540
Quote:
Originally Posted by upr_crust View Post

Thank you, Derek. I found them at Harrod's a couple of years ago - within hours of landing at Heathrow - and searched the town for anything better, for well over a week, and couldn't find their equal, so I bought them.

i love the jodhpur style. My dad has a bespoke pair that he's worn maybe a dozen times...he hates them...i love them. Ive hinted that he needs to donate them to me wink.gif
post #50263 of 75540
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeyface View Post

Just noticed my pocket is damaged! On top of that the sunny weather of yesterday is gone, it's such a gloomy day. Luckily it's Friday!

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lovely tie monkeyface!

post #50264 of 75540
post #50265 of 75540
Quote:
Originally Posted by Syeknom View Post

 

Lovely tie monkeyface!

Thanks, it's a Drakes grenadine!

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