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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part III - Page 3315  

post #49711 of 78722
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pingson View Post

Four patterns today.....


The rest: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

AppleMark

AMAZEBALLS! And inspirational; I think I may try something similar with two pieces I've had trouble pairing and had literally never thought of putting together.
Ahem. When I get back from vaca, that is.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpooPoker View Post

So, I finally took the plunge and went custom. I'm not revealing the maker to get honest feedback. This was all done via email, no in person fittings. Please give me your thoughts, good and bad. Both myself and the maker want to hear. :
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)





Mystery MTM
Finamore
Ralph
Noname PS
Ralph
Carmina
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpooPoker View Post

Should be noted that it was probably the easiest process ever to do. I basically had my wife measure me uhoh.gif to the tailors requests once, got a first fitting, sent it back with small revisions, and a few weeks later, boom. So perfect for someone as busy as I am.

So, first thing to say is: That looks and fits nicer than 99% of anything I own.
Second thing to say is: I'm so far from an expert that I probably should just stop now.
The third thing to say is: I'm not going to.
But since you asked for impressions, nitpicks and honest feedback, this is honestly and objectively (if mistakenly) what I see:
- The back looks like it's not fitting quite right. There's the rumple just below the collar, plus the slack between your shoulder blades.
- Also, the upper sleeve looks just a hair big for your proportions, or at least the proportions of the lower arm.
- The lapels are pushing the limits of what your proportions can carry. Don't get me wrong, again, you manage it well, But they're sufficiently wide that I noticed it, whereas I usually don't on your stuff.
- But the biggest issue is the lower quarters. The upper quarters are great. The proportions and the angles seem right. But when they jacket hits the waist/button point, it just seems to turn into something much more boxy. It goes straight down. The angle of incidence does not equal the angle of reflection (to geek it up) and especially in the robo pose it's throwing me ALL off.

So, again, just to be clear, this kicks the ass of everything I own, but it's a shade of a percent off top Spoo-level.

On a side note, I think I know where you got this and the interesting thing is, I just advised a friend of a friend against joining this company, reasoning that folks who are of a mind to have true bespoke/made to measure will want to feel the fabric, see the construction in action etc., so the two aspects of the business model didn't mesh. Nitpicking aside, it's nice to see that they make really nice stuff.
post #49712 of 78722
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpooPoker View Post

AppleMark


I hope the jacket is reversible because that lining is DA BOMB!!!
post #49713 of 78722
Quote:
Originally Posted by GMMcL View Post

A
- The lapels are pushing the limits of what your proportions can carry. Don't get me wrong, again, you manage it well, But they're sufficiently wide that I noticed it, whereas I usually don't on your stuff.

Have you seen one of his Tom Ford three-piece numbers with the wide peak lapels? devil.gif They ARE the limit! But sharper than a serpent's tooth on him...
post #49714 of 78722
How long until the maker is revealed? lurker[1].gif
post #49715 of 78722
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

How long until the maker is revealed? lurker[1].gif

WE SHALL NEVER KNOW!!!
post #49716 of 78722
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrDaniels View Post

Have you seen one of his Tom Ford three-piece numbers with the wide peak lapels? devil.gif They ARE the limit! But sharper than a serpent's tooth on him...

All true, but the proportions overall are very different. First, peak lapel look best when they're straining for the sky, like angel wings. Second, the shoulders are wider, balancing the lapels. Third, the waist nips harder with the lower quarters flaring more.

So, once again, that jacket is great. But to my (untrained) eye, some of his RTW stuff fits better: certainly the TF and that charcoal windowpane (is it Isaia?).

Can't beat that lining, lapel roll and construction. Holy crap that looks nice!
post #49717 of 78722
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpooPoker View Post






Thanks guys.

Betel, that is a slight wrinkle in the back, but I took a few shots, it may have just been the way I was standing, it wasnt in the other shots but this was the clearest.
.

You are right, in the side pics it's not there. So I think it is very very nice. So… when does the maker is going to be revealed? smile.gif

Henry Carter, very nice jacket, it's awesome!
post #49718 of 78722
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

How long until the maker is revealed? lurker[1].gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

WE SHALL NEVER KNOW!!!

Why not? O.o What if some of us want to have a SC from him? Share the name Espú, share it! smile.gif
post #49719 of 78722
Quote:
Originally Posted by GMMcL View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
AMAZEBALLS! And inspirational; I think I may try something similar with two pieces I've had trouble pairing and had literally never thought of putting together.
Ahem. When I get back from vaca, that is.

So, first thing to say is: That looks and fits nicer than 99% of anything I own.
Second thing to say is: I'm so far from an expert that I probably should just stop now.
The third thing to say is: I'm not going to.
But since you asked for impressions, nitpicks and honest feedback, this is honestly and objectively (if mistakenly) what I see:
- The back looks like it's not fitting quite right. There's the rumple just below the collar, plus the slack between your shoulder blades.
- Also, the upper sleeve looks just a hair big for your proportions, or at least the proportions of the lower arm.
- The lapels are pushing the limits of what your proportions can carry. Don't get me wrong, again, you manage it well, But they're sufficiently wide that I noticed it, whereas I usually don't on your stuff.
- But the biggest issue is the lower quarters. The upper quarters are great. The proportions and the angles seem right. But when they jacket hits the waist/button point, it just seems to turn into something much more boxy. It goes straight down. The angle of incidence does not equal the angle of reflection (to geek it up) and especially in the robo pose it's throwing me ALL off.

So, again, just to be clear, this kicks the ass of everything I own, but it's a shade of a percent off top Spoo-level.

On a side note, I think I know where you got this and the interesting thing is, I just advised a friend of a friend against joining this company, reasoning that folks who are of a mind to have true bespoke/made to measure will want to feel the fabric, see the construction in action etc., so the two aspects of the business model didn't mesh. Nitpicking aside, it's nice to see that they make really nice stuff.

Appreciated. Too tired to type a proper reply, Im sorry.. but all points noted.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarbutch View Post

How long until the maker is revealed? lurker[1].gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by Betelgeuse View Post


Share the name Espú, share it! smile.gif

Soon, maybe tomorrow. smile.gif
post #49720 of 78722
Quote:
Originally Posted by GMMcL View Post


- But the biggest issue is the lower quarters. The upper quarters are great. The proportions and the angles seem right. But when they jacket hits the waist/button point, it just seems to turn into something much more boxy. It goes straight down. The angle of incidence does not equal the angle of reflection (to geek it up) and especially in the robo pose it's throwing me ALL off.

My own 2 cents from an untrained eye...I agree with GMMcL's comment in that my initial reaction was to just give it a wee nip in the waist, which will create the silhouette we're used to seeing from you. Nitpick really. Great jacket overall.
post #49721 of 78722
Quote:
Originally Posted by Holdfast View Post

 

The style of that DB is interesting. To me, it is a very elongating and stylised look; I think this comes from something subtle but uncommon about the angle of the lapels, the button spacing and amount of crossover. It's very good, in a very angular way. Nice one.

 

 

Thanks. Indeed it is rather unusual DB. It is vintage. It was made in 1970's by Sartoria Santagada from Varese (Lombardy). Fabric is very heavy (English, Sulka on the selvedge, probably not related to famous tie manufacturer). Even if I compare it to contemporary 16oz H. Lesser, this cloth is still heavier. In fact it is a suit. I also have trousers but they are bell-bottoms  ;).  I personally adore the blue pearl buttons. Very rare sight nowadays.

post #49722 of 78722

Spoo, lovely jacket and even more amazing considering that you did this with home measurements and by e-mail. The tailor must already know you, I presume?

 

The side view makes it for me and really shows why double vents are so manifestly superior to single vents. From the back there is, as some have already pointed out, very slight wrinkling between the shoulder blades, but it's nothing to worry about. The shoulder shaping is perfect. The fabric looks gorgeous and the lining couldn't be better, particularly for you.

 

The only thing I would change if it was mine - and this is entirely personal preference - is perhaps to have the waist a tiny bit more nipped to give a bit more definition - from the front it is a tiny bit too cylindrical for my taste. But then I am very English about these things and I am aware that nipped waists are not to everyone's liking.

 

Overall: a major success, especially considering the method.

post #49723 of 78722
Breaking out the linen today. Finally temperatures in double digits (celciius):



post #49724 of 78722
Substantially fewer patterns today. biggrin.gif



Close-up and shoes: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

AppleMark
post #49725 of 78722
Trying to will spring into existence by force of wardrobe.

Suit - New & Lingwood
Shirt - BB MTM
Tie - PRL
Cufflinks - rhodochrosite and silver, craft fair, Buenos Aires, Argentina
PS - Ashear
Braces - Paul Stuart
Shoes - Bergdorf Goodman house brand


Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)








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