I'd like to see a 1" lower buttoning point on you, SB. Lovely colors.
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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part III - Page 3109post #46621 of 787223/1/13 at 9:51am
Styleforum Top Pickspost #46622 of 787223/1/13 at 9:51amQuote:
what I don't understand is, he claimed he was checking for cancer, but I was there to get a wisdom tooth pulled out
BTW, if you read my diatribe up above, you are one of the guys that I loosely refer to, that does their own thing and have found their style niche and doesn't just sway with the current trends on clothing forums/tumblr.post #46623 of 787223/1/13 at 9:52ampost #46624 of 787223/1/13 at 10:05amQuote:Originally Posted by edmorelQuote:
what I don't understand is, he claimed he was checking for cancer, but I was there to get a wisdom tooth pulled out
BTW, if you read my diatribe up above, you are one of the guys that I loosely refer to, that does their own thing and have found their style niche and doesn't just sway with the current trends on clothing forums/tumblr.
Thanks! I really appreciate that a lot, as you clearly know what you're doing when it comes to dressing well. Though I suspect that the root cause is that I'm too stubborn and stuck in my ways to change much. I have altered some aspects quite a lot over the years though; while I'm still fond of flashy/leery stuff, I think a bit more about which leery elements to include, and when. And everything in general fits a lot better than it used to, which helps a lot. Having said that, I've stolen zillions of little ideas/concepts from others here (and from other sources, of course) over the years too. For me, though, I'm more about wanting to steal bits that I think will work with what I want to look like, rather than stealing bits in order to look like the dude who wore them first just because it looked cool on him. It doesn't always work, and sometimes a crazy experiment ends up going wrong (I don't know if you saw the mish-mash I wore about a week or so ago, lol) but I do try to work out why it went wrong.
Thanks again dude.
EDIT: I just went & read your post. I think you posted it while I was writing up my own post so didn't see it at first. Kudos for having the patience & motivation for typing all that common sense out. The photography/pose aspect is especially apt. I've learned to roll with it in my own way by (almost) never doing a standard robo-pose, as I instinctively doubt most fit feedback on SF unless coming from an impeccable source, and even then it's not as meaningful as what you and your tailor see IRL. By using a consistent, but very non robopose, pose, I tend to cut a lot of that kind of feedback off at the pass and instead get colour & pattern advice, which I find a lot more practically useful. Either that, or people just got bored telling me to shorten my jacket sleeves, and figured I'd never learn. :)post #46625 of 787223/1/13 at 10:06ampost #46626 of 787223/1/13 at 10:10ampost #46627 of 787223/1/13 at 11:00ampost #46628 of 787223/1/13 at 11:04ampost #46629 of 787223/1/13 at 11:11ampost #46630 of 787223/1/13 at 11:14ampost #46631 of 787223/1/13 at 11:15ampost #46632 of 787223/1/13 at 11:20ampost #46633 of 787223/1/13 at 11:21ampost #46634 of 787223/1/13 at 11:22ampost #46635 of 787223/1/13 at 11:24amWarning: Spoiler! (Click to show)Quote:Originally Posted by edmorel
Hello everyone, my name is Mr.Morel, please pass the syllabus to the person next to you.......
So SB gave me this critique yesterday:
and I thought it was interesting/constructive for a couple of reasons.
We post here, I'm assuming, because we either think we are dressed well, are looking for advice or some combination of both. No two of us are alike and our fits should be somewhat different from the next guy, even if he is wearing the same exact thing in the same exact manner. Then there is the issue of photgraphy/staging. Two people with the same physique wearing the same thing will look diferent if one person takes very good pictures and the other a cell phone pic. So what to with the criticism received here? Well, here is how I took SB's criticism.
1. "weird stuff going on around the midsection". In the picture, there is an obvious dent/pull on my right side around the middle button. Given that the jacket was made for me, that should be worrying as it could be a construction or fit issue. So I look at myself wearing the jacket in a mirror and the dent is not there, all is OK. I know that right before the pic, I had my hand stuffed in my patch pocket doing a silly pose and my wife hit me right around where the dent is so I know what the cause of it was but my larger point here is that sometimes there are things we can't see (or refuse to see) that a pic of someone else's eyes notice and we should check it rather than just brushing it off.
2. "the tie is below the button show". I am not proficient in the rules but I think the classic rule on this is that your tie should not show below the last jacket button (nor should your pants waist). So what to do. The pants waist issue would be resolved by me getting slightly higher rise and larger waisted pants. I will be doing that if I can't lose the 10 lbs. I am trying to lose. I can lower the buttoning point on my jacket and maybe get a bit lionger coat but i have odd proportions and I think this jacket length/buttoning point work for my physique (the classic jacket length is, I think, about half the distance between your neck/collar and the floor, while covering your behind).I have short legs for my height, and a long torso, I think in this setup I look like my two halfs are equal, with the pants issue addressed above, I think I will look like I have slightly longer legs than torso, which is what I want and is physically not the case. The tie showing for me is not an issue, I don't mind it as I don't fuss with my tie a lot, I tie it once and as long as its not ridiculously short or long, I leave it as is, typically that leaves the tie right around my pants waistband. But, since my preference will be for having my pants waistband be right around or slightly higher than the bottom button of the jacket, that will essentially take care of the "tie show" issue, without me really addressing it.
Here is a case where I essentially already had in mind fixing part of what SB was critiquing but had I not thought about it previously, this would have been a good instance of looking at the critique, seeing if you think its valid for how you dress and either addressing it or ignoring it. Had my pants been higher rise and no waistband showing but the tie just happened to have been tied a bit long and it was showing, I would not care about SB's critique and would not spend an extra second trying to get the tie to the perfect length.
3. "the sleeves seem generous". Yes, you know what they say about guys with big sleeves. I like them, not everyone does. Big lapels here are almost universally loved, but big sleeves are either not given much thought or just the Napoli contigent likes them. But lets look at my coat. You have a big (and incredibly handsome) guy. Broad shoulders, big lapels (lapels are halfway across the chest, which is the classic measurement, but I will probably add 1/4 inch on the next one). There is space in the chest and a big skirt. The sleeves are in balance with everything else. Take a look at a jacket (Tom Ford) where you see huge lapels and very slim sleeves. Take a very good look at it. Doesn't it look a bit unbalanced? Huge lapels but tight chest, slim sleeves, slim body. The lapels smack you in the face. I think it looks unbalanced so I like big sleeves. So in this case, I totally ignore (although still man-love) SB. BTW, these sleeves are the same width of everything else I've posted, they are longer but that will eventually be taken cared of. Which touches on the issue of photography quality/lighting/angles etc.
4. "trousers too cool". Honestly, I don't know what this means but I assume it has to do with color. This is my favorite grey color for pants. Not too light and not too dark. I have lighter grey and darker which I wear but this color is in my wheelhouse as I wear a lot of dark suede and calf shoes (and brown jackets) and I just really like the sedateness of everything when I wear this type of combo. So there may be a more "optimal" pants color for this outfit, but this is where my happiness lies. When I dress like this, I feel good, comfortable and appropriate for the environment in which I operate. This is a scenario where I am going to ignore SB/forum dogma because my comfort and happiness level with an outfit is going to trump what may or may not be "best". Know yourself, know what you like and what your environment is before following everything that is said here. To me, there is nothing worse than "thinking" about your clothes once you are wearing them.
5. "dinkelackers look reasonable here". This touches on the photography issue in part. I posted pics of these (drop dead gorgeous) Dinkelacker shoes previously and not everyone liked them. Nothing wrong with that, not everyone is going to like everything. But what if I am on the fence about wearing/buying something and I get negative/positive feedback on something? Easy, buy/wear the positive feedback items, don't buy/don't wear the negative feedback stuff. Well hold on, SB has now gone from thinking they looked ridiculous to thinking they now look reasonable. What if in the next pic I post, SB's thoughts on my Dinks goes from reasonable to sensible? If I reacted to his and others initial reaction, I would be Dinkless This is a case of me knowing my wardrobe (and being resolute in my likes). I wear tapered pants, small leg opening. I have a size 10 foot. I've worn (and still wear) elongated lasts shoes, but a lot of them don't work in my wardrobe and I've gotten rid of them in favor of softer/rounder toe stuff. A size 10 shoe in a some of these elongated lasts worn with tapered pants look like you are wearing cowboy boots. There is nothing wrong with cowboy boots, but that is not the look I am going for. I also wear a lot of casual/country type clothing (tweeds, flannels etc), sometime I see people wearing jeans, cords or tweeds with an elongated last (on a very dressy shoe) and I find it bizarre. So even though there are certain shoes on SF which are very popular, I can't wear them because they will not look good on my feet/wardrobe, even though they would get universal acclaim if I posted a fit pic. Pictures are one thing. Look at the items in the context of your body and your clothing. Again, comfort should be first and foremost followed by the overall aesthetic of your outfit.
The internet machine has been great for mens clothing and mens clothing sellers like myself. But at the same time, its been a very bad thing for mens clothing. Beautifully staged and photographed pictures have sometimes trumped common sense ("How can I get my linen suit to not wrinkle?"). Alot of me too-ism exists (wow, that guy looks cool with the wrist beads/lapel pin/pocket square/glasses hanging out from chest pocket/scarf/pocketwatch chain on the vest/wallet chain on the pants/unbuttoned BD collar/back blade of tie showing, so let me do the same thing"). You need to be you. There are guys here that dress very in your face. Some get away with it, some don't. I could never dress Tiralleur or TTO (well, maybe TTO) but that doesn't mean that they are bad dressers. They have a style which they have cultivated which works with their lifestyle/tastes. If I came dressed to my place of business dressed like one of those guys, I would feel self concious and uncomfortable. I would be coming on here asking how to wear this pocket square or this tie color or these shoes etc. I don't think TTO worries about his outfit once he wears it. I don't think Tiralleur worries about his pocket square puff as he goes about his day. So when we see pictures great dressers, be it Pitti, on the forum, AA illustrations or pics of Cary Grant/Fred Astaire/James Bond, keep in mind that not everything is meant for everyone.
Your style has to be organic to you. An academic approach to dressing is fine, where the color wheel and textural discourses are brought out to the forefront and of course we can all learn from places like this and from seeing and hearing others but you can't just do what everyone else does and be stylish. Try different shit out, don't worry about if your pocket square drops a bit in your pocket, don't aim to look like a perfectly staged and photographed menswear blogger all day long. Clothing should come alive when you wear it, it moves with you, it wrinkles, pants get frumpy, jacket elbows wrinkle and you should be as physically and mentally comfortable in a suit as your are in jeans and a tee.
Anyway, that has been my approach. I've gone from British dandy in the late 90's (lots of T&A contrast collar shirts and sharp suits) to BB trad early 2000 (BB shirts/ties and suits) to everything handstitched/Napoli/elongated shoes (post-finding SF) to where I am now. I feel like I can grab anything in my closet and wear it without thinking about how to wear it. I don't think my clothes wears me and I don't think I have any aspect of my clothing that really smacks you in the face (other than pattern/color). I'm as comfortable walking 20 blocks in my suits/shoes as I am in my jeans/sneakers. Do I always hit a home run? No, but so what?
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- HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part III
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