it looks wool to me. madder is a specific dye from a specific plant root, that has a "gummy" feel to it.
Malford's tie is not madder (looks like wool challis), but mine is - just arrived from E.G. Cappelli. The pics don't do it justice at all.
The word "madder" refers just to the dye itself and the printing technique, I believe; the gummy, chalky hand comes from the type of twill it's printed on.
NOBD: Is this any better? This puff is the same as the pic you've quoted (though the outcome is a little different). It's easily repeatable, so maybe I should adopt it
It's hard to use a tie with such an unusual pattern, and hard to put other patterns with a windowpane, let alone one that also has a stripe! But today you have surpassed yourself. Just superb. Deep blues and gold are such a beautiful mix, and not seen too often. Total win today, Sir!