I love the look of traditional unfused collars. I switched recently and got 20 shirts made with unfused cuffs and collars. I always instruct my tailor to put in some layers of fabric for some heft, though. I won't go back to fused collars.
"I heard he lives in a castle too."
Hold the tears guys. Those are neither Ascot Chang nor Anna Matuozzo shirts nor are they probably near that quality by any sort of comparison.
This is merely the result of a rather laborious venture of mine. The result being an inexpensive Chinese tailor who is now capable of cutting and sewing my shirt.
- The patented German Überhemd.
I source the fabric and the buttons myself. She does the cutting and the sewing (mostly by machine) and her daughter sews on the buttons. The top two on the placket as well as all the buttons on the cuff are shanked by hand.
It took me 2.5 months, roughly 6 fittings and various bolts of cloth until I was satisfied with the outcome. I had to revise and tweak and redraw the collar numerous times in CATIA for this. Now she is able of crafting the shirts without my supervision. Still however, she sometimes goes into 'Chinese improvisation freestyle' mode and makes mistakes resulting in the collar arriving with a gap 4mm too wide or points 3 mm too short or the placket too wide or most recently she forgot to sew in the extra buttonhole on my patented "Übermanschette". But those mistakes are accounted for and I should be used to China being China by now.
All this comes down to ~27€ of labour for each shirt. Depending on which fabric I chose this adds up to 70-150€ including the MoP buttons of which I bought a shit load from my button guy and smuggled out of Thailand in filled to the brim worn socks. Right now there are 3 shirts of amazing cotton/linen blend fabric from my fabric guy in Kairo. Total cost of each shirt ~ 73€.
Right now they are learning how to hand roll pocketsquares for 30RMB per hank.