Brudduh, truer words hath never been spoken. I've been looking for a navy SC for a while now. Hell, I even have a Borreli shirt I'm trying to trade to get one (shameless self plug). I'm also trying to land me some tweeds as well, as I have a lot of earthy trousers to work with. For what it's worth, I really don't disagree with anything in your first post. I just thought I'd give the rationale for the fit.
I believe today's is decidedly better, and tradly as hell. I only wish the tie was a touch wider to balance the lapels.
Land's End Wool Tie
BB Milanos (Maiden voyage, and I love these)