I partially agree, but if it's a subtle color/pattern mix that almost looks like a plain shirt from a distance then I think it can be nice. Mostly for more casual occasions.
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I think this is somewhat correct. Given that the shirt you mention has shades of the same color in the overlay. However, in lufty's case, the pink overlay makes things different. It strikes me as a half-ass tattersall and the color combination makes it awkwardly standout/creates confusion within the outfit.
Because patterned shirts are considered more casual in the hierarchy of formality, coupled with the fact that PoW is an objectively loud standalone pattern, I think it would work best without a SC. And certainly better without a tie. That said, a pencil stripe shirt or even Bengal stripe is a much better alternative for casual, sans tie or SC look, IMHO.
The feedback thread for in-progress garments seems a little light on feedback recently, so I thought I'd ask you lot for your thoughts
Just returned from my fitting at Graham Browne in London. I have requested a number of adjustments (specifically, the shape of the waist; the thighs and sleeves to remove some of the fullness; the seat of the trousers to have them fall more neatly. I don't think that's a true button pull, but then I am taking a lot of headache pills today), but as this is SF, I'll invite interested parties to offer their own (no nitpicks) and I can bring them up with the tailors when I visit them again soon
The photographs don't serve the faille wool material very well and my rudimentary Photoshopping couldn't bring them to life either (it's an admittedly harshly lit room), but I think the colour is almost accurate, in both cases:
lol, no the tie definitely doesn't look like a camo pattern IRL; it looks like what it is, a paisley. Blame it on my poor photography skills.
Having said that, one effect I really like about that shirt/tie combo is that while the patterns theoretically clash horrendously, their complementary colours do make the tie & shirt somehow blend into one gloriously offensive gestalt, rather than appearing as separate clashing objects. So no the tie doesn't look like camo, but it does camouflage itself somewhat against the shirt! :)
Ed - that is high praise indeed; thank you!
I'm interested in yours and TTO's shared suggestion of more casual shoes. I must admit, I had no idea what shoes to pair with this. Certainly black didn't work, and neither did pale browns. A purer burgundy looked too matchy somehow, so I moved over to the browny-red you see. I did have one moment of madness where I almost wore sneakers with it, but I there are limits even to my eccentricity! Loafers rather than monks, maybe? But then, what colour/material? Dark brown suede would feel a bit flat, somehow. Tricky, tricky...
I've had items like that. Eventually, you will give up forcing yourself. Might as well do it sooner rather than later IMO.
Regarding your advice for a smaller bow. Normally with bow ties, I would agree with this principle, but somehow with that particular combination, I like the floppy big bow. It's kind of, well, "this is batshit bonkers anyway, so might as well let it all hang out!".
In addition to the many areas you've already identified, I would be cautious about the shaping of the waist as it moves from chest, through torso, and down over the hips. I personally like a smooth curve, and your jacket looks like it has a "step" around the top of the hips. My problem with liking that smooth curve is that I have fairly wide hips, which means that in RTW/MTM I usually get a slightly looser fit through the waist to avoid the kinks that would result from a more nipped-in waistline. With bespoke, somehow my tailors manage to compensate for this at least somewhat using their dark arts, so yours should be able to do the same for you to give you a narrow enough waist while avoiding that kink/step at the hips.
I love the fabric & colour, by the way. Yummy like the inside of a Crunchie bar...
i noticed no one commented so i'll offer some humble feedback:
1. Black suits should be reserved for funerals or formal evening wear. Funerals only really; as a tux would look better for formal evening wear
2. The fancy socks should be kept for extremely casual wear ... jeans/chukkas etc. if you are wearing a suit and want to wear fun socks, where something with extremely muted colors yet patterns. will still be fun, but not garishly out of place like these are now.
3. The shoes gotta go man, especially the black ones. Sorry - i was trying to find the best way to say it but that's the best i can come up with. Conservatively i'd recommend a black captoe, but you look like you like to peacock a bit, so i'd say get a wingtip with a medallion or even a whole cut with a medallion. Some may frown upon it here, but a nice pair of wingtips or wholecuts would be infinitely better than the shoes you showed. I could see keeping the brown one for faded jeans and a blazer for extremely casual club wear. Many brands are discussed here across the pricing spectrum.
4. The fit of your suits seem off. Hard to tell with the poses, but focus first on fit (lots of good threads here to learn from) and then put in the color combination and accessories and you tighten things up.
I do not believe in dressing only in blue/gray suits, blue shirts and brown ties. I think you can let your individuality show with your outfits, but you have to want to learn the basics and invest in very well made pieces to get better. All the information you want is here.
With your screen name i foresee no financial hurdles to achieving the above goals.
I own a similar shirt - don't wear it often ... usually casually, but definitely don't regret buying it. I think you can wear it often in casual settings ... and also with say a cotton or linen suit during the summers with a knit tie.
Ivory or light cream
Nice fabric onua ...
The three biggest issues I see are:
1. Sleeve pitch
2. Shoulder shape
The above two kinda go together. I believe a sleeve can be rotated to get the pitch a little better. If the shoulder were to be extended a smidgen outward, i think it would hang better. The combination of the slightly smaller shoulder and sleeve pitch are causing the divot at the top and the ripples down your arm. However i'll defer to jeffreyD or despos and guys like patrickBooth who definitely have a way better appreciation of the intricacies of tailoring.
3. Waist suppression:
There appears to be excessive waist suppression which is making the lower part look larger/hippy. Less waist suppression would probably balance things out a lot better.
Pants could be cleaned up a bit, but i see you already mentioned that. Hopefully the 100% looks smashing!!
This one is pale blue, and it also looks kinda off with light pink. Maybe it's just the tie itself. In retrospect, I think I like its colour, but its shiny texture throws things off. I'll try it with a cream shirt, thanks :)
Edited by RDiaz - 8/24/12 at 1:18pm
I will definitely look into the hip area, but at this stage, could the shoulders truly be adjusted further? I can certainly bring up the sleeve pitch issue now that you've helped me articulate it in my head. GB tend to be a 3 fittings operation, else I'd have written to you all earlier in the process
ETA: I forgot to mention that the sleeves are pinned at the back to be tapered, which would most likely throw off everyone's assessments. I can't remember if the pitch was funky beforehand
I sourced the fabric myself; that colour seems difficult to come by in a number of books, for some reason
Yesterday. Pale blue shirt, PS Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Deets on tie? I'm wearing a pale blue shirt with a brown tie today too, but mine's more of a colour failure, I like yours...
I believe that's a Borelli six- or seven-fold I got at Shop the Finest. I posted it in the soporific tie thread last summer.
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