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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part III - Page 2140  

post #32086 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by bourbonbasted View Post

I prefer fused collars for my white shirts, as I generally wear them in situations were I want a crisper, cleaner appearance.

Whittaker told me that he recommended fused collars because modern laundries are terrible with unfused collars, which is true.

My collars from him are unfused, though.
post #32087 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by bourbonbasted View Post

Are the PRL made in Italy or in China? If they are made in China they are 100% fused. I would say, judging from what you described, they are fused.

ill check when i get home, but 99% not italy.
post #32088 of 78717
Stitches, the Italian ones are still fused, but it is lightweight fusing. If you arre not sure you can do the pinch-test like people do for canvassing in a jacket. You will feel a layer wiggling around between the shirt fabric.
post #32089 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

Whittaker told me that he recommended fused collars because modern laundries are terrible with unfused collars, which is true.
My collars from him are unfused, though.

That is what Frank (Ercole) said as well. I had to pull his leg a bit, but when I told him that I wash and press my own shirts it was a different story.
post #32090 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

Whittaker told me that he recommended fused collars because modern laundries are terrible with unfused collars, which is true.
My collars from him are unfused, though.

100%. My fused collars come back from the cleaners far crisper/smoother than my unfused. There used to be concerns about bubbling but I haven't seen a fused collar bubble badly in years so I don't think that is as big of a deal as it used to be. At least not if they are decent shirts.
post #32091 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post

they all have a nice spread and shape to them, but the PRL collars are significantly harder and stiffer feeling. they even feel thicker, and have little to no bend to them. all the italian ones feel very pliable. are they all fused, but done in a different way, or is there a chance that the italian collars are made entirely different than the PRLs?

The Neapolitan RTW makers use a very nice, thin, flexible interlining...so, when that's fused, it still makes for a light feeling collar.

Here is Kabbaz's take on fusing: http://tinyurl.com/7v5k8pu
post #32092 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

Stitches, the Italian ones are still fused, but it is lightweight fusing. If you arre not sure you can do the pinch-test like people do for canvassing in a jacket. You will feel a layer wiggling around between the shirt fabric.

thank you. i am wearing the borrelli now, and it very much feels like there is something wiggling in there. either way i am happy with it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

The Neapolitan RTW makers use a very nice, thin, flexible interlining...so, when that's fused, it still makes for a light feeling collar.

thank you for explaining that. much appreciated.
post #32093 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by bourbonbasted View Post

100%. My fused collars come back from the cleaners far crisper/smoother than my unfused. There used to be concerns about bubbling but I haven't seen a fused collar bubble badly in years so I don't think that is as big of a deal as it used to be. At least not if they are decent shirts.

The cleaners that I use for pressing my suits said they hand iron all shirts because the machine ruins the collars by making them shiny and in some of the cheaper ones the glue would actually soften and look all hazy and gunky. Sounds horrible.
post #32094 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

The cleaners that I use for pressing my suits said they hand iron all shirts because the machine ruins the collars by making them shiny and in some of the cheaper ones the glue would actually soften and look all hazy and gunky. Sounds horrible.

I've seen sheen with hotel cleaners (and cheaper shirts) before. It is terrible. Knock wood there has been no sheen on any of my shirts, nor has there been the gunky appearance you've seen. I've made an effort to hand launder and iron all of my shirts (time permitting), so I've moved to natural collars recently. I also wear a lot of OCBDs, so they don't need any extra heft/structure to them.
post #32095 of 78717
Yeah, I really hate washing and ironing my shirts. But as they say, if you want something done right you do it yourself.
post #32096 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by F. Corbera View Post

Whittaker told me that he recommended fused collars because modern laundries are terrible with unfused collars, which is true.
My collars from him are unfused, though.
Did I mention that I have a shipment of his latest efforts on its way? It was dispatched today.
post #32097 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH View Post

Yeah, I really hate washing and ironing my shirts. But as they say, if you want something done right you do it yourself.

224

confused.gif
post #32098 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by RDiaz View Post

gettoasty, I don't like the knit tie and bluchers with an otherwise formal ensemble. How about a grenadine and captoe balmorals?

I would usually but wanted to break in the new bluchers. Regarding grenadine tie, I really wanted to order from Jack&Jay but the length was about 2" too long. I prefer a length of about 57" with at most 58" (Tie Bar standard?) Grenadine is real nice indeed. Also for grenadine, do you also roll them up after use or hang?

Quote:
Originally Posted by XKxRome0ox View Post

there seems to be plenty of good outdoor lighting for the shot
no need for flash
he just needs to let more light in
lower the f-stop number and lower the camera shutter speed
tell your brother to join a photography forum and to read the instruction manual... and just keep shooting
now about your suit
looks decent but can be improved a lot
first of all, how short is the jacket? are the pants very high rise?
the jacket looks short + very high button stance
the short jacket can be passable since it's the trend these days ... but i think a lower button stance would fit you so much better

Will let him know though he is fairly stubborn to "criticism"
FWIW the photo was taken at an angle on a slanted driveway. Never noticed the jacket being short, and the button stance is something out of my hands until I pickup some nicer suits. Working with Uniqlo OTR Tasmanian wool ATM. Lower button stance will definitely help with my proportions.
As far as the rise of the pants, I guess they are medium to high rise. I prefer this as shorter rise trousers are uncomfortable on me. I think I have fairly long legs and a short torso frown.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaplan View Post

I personally prefer it when a shirt collar looks slightly disheveled like this.

Certainly different, I guess it is not really a problem but more of personal preference
post #32099 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by bourbonbasted View Post

Are the PRL made in Italy or in China? If they are made in China they are 100% fused. I would say, judging from what you described, they are fused.

I just checked. they were actually in my car as, I am on my way to the dry cleaners. they are indeed made in China
post #32100 of 78717
Quote:
Originally Posted by dopey View Post

Did I mention that I have a shipment of his latest efforts on its way? It was dispatched today.

No, you didn't.

The feel of his shirts when I put them on are unequalled, as is the shaping of the collar, by any other shirt that I have.

This is one of those situations where it would be good to be English and not know or care that shirts can be sewn together at much higher standards.

You predicted my comparative experience, though.
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