Cold, rainy, wretched day. What kind of a June 1st is this? Requires a cuppa tea early.
Shirt, tie, suit, PS all from the Brethren. Everything but the cup.
Edited by clarinetplayer - 6/1/12 at 7:27am
Nah, not their aversion, just the fact that my English is not that good and I just guessed they know better than me :P
I guess I'll continue using both words then...
If you're not feeling it, that's one thing, but I don't feel that it's too narrow in the waist area. I do think that you stand oddly in photos however. If you were just to literally stand there, as if you are waiting for the bus, less self conscious and not trying to make it easier to see your concerns then I'm sure it would look well fitted.
It doesn't look too tight at the waist to me. It's very fitted, but not actually pulling.
Now, I may be completely barking up the wrong tree, but I do think your jackets occasionally give off the appearance of being too tight because you favour quite an open front to your jackets and you have quite broad hips compared to your waist. If it was more closed, it would appear less waisted relative to your hips and perhaps more proportionate. Related to this, slightly more jacket length would also distract attention from the waist. I'm perfectly aware that longer, more closed jackets are viewed as stodgy and don't get much praise on SF, but if they're cut nicely and fit well, I think they look very smart. I wonder what effect they'd have on you in terms of proportions. I also have wide hips relative to my waist (though you do have the benefit of broader shoulders than me, proportionately) and if you notice, my bespoke jackets tend to be relatively more closed and longer than SF-doctrine would dictate. Here's an old snap which gives you an idea of what I mean, if you look at the side I'm not distorting by having a hand in the pocket.
Anyway, might be worth experimenting around with next time you're shopping. The trouble with more closed and longer jackets, however, is that unless they fit nicely, they will look boxy and dull (it's actually analogous to the whole pleat issue that's been discussed to death: they look just fine when they fit right but have less tolerance for poor fit. DBs are yet another example of this high elasticity of appearance vs precision of fit).
I also think the sleeves may be too narrow for you, going by all the funky bunching/creasing.
In the case of this jacket, I think it's simply been cut that way, as it doesn't look like it's swinging open on the hinge of the button as a result of being too tight at the waist. However, I am very very far from knowing much about tailoring so will let someone more knowledgeable reply! :)
I can't see how a tailor could create more closed fronts; where would the extra material come from? Opening them up, I suppose so. I never actually asked a tailor either way though. Maybe Despos or a tailor can weigh in here as I have no idea.