who does spoo think he is?`how entitled is he for thinking that he can get away with not pleasing everybody?
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Styleforum Top Pickspost #30062 of 787196/1/12 at 6:55ampost #30063 of 787196/1/12 at 6:55amQuote:
Nah, not their aversion, just the fact that my English is not that good and I just guessed they know better than me :P
I guess I'll continue using both words then...post #30064 of 787196/1/12 at 7:00amFinally Friday. Hot and humid, so I decided to go with the linen suit. Since it's linen, I thought a little slouchiness on the trouser legs wasn't such a bad idea. Now, I'm thinking I might want to get them hemmed for a cleaner line and minimal break. What thinks the Hivemind?
Also, due to weird lighting the true blueness of the suit didn't come out in the full body shot. The closeup is more true to color.post #30065 of 787196/1/12 at 7:02amQuote:
My cousin a long time ago when she was in high school had this boyfriend who was very preppy. Her family thought he was gay because he called any pair of pants, "slacks". I get made fun of by less style conscious friends for calling my suit pants, "trousers" and not "pants", or "dress pants". I think they are just philistines.post #30066 of 787196/1/12 at 7:03ampost #30067 of 787196/1/12 at 7:17ampost #30068 of 787196/1/12 at 7:51ampost #30069 of 787196/1/12 at 8:03amHappy friday everyone. Had this jacket altered, not sure if I am going to keep or not(still feels too narrow in waist despite being let out all the way. Not sure if it is the cut of the jacket or the previous owner having it slimmed. Could also be product of shirt not tucking in right...). On the fence. New tie courtesy of BB.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)post #30070 of 787196/1/12 at 8:35am
If you're not feeling it, that's one thing, but I don't feel that it's too narrow in the waist area. I do think that you stand oddly in photos however. If you were just to literally stand there, as if you are waiting for the bus, less self conscious and not trying to make it easier to see your concerns then I'm sure it would look well fitted.post #30071 of 787196/1/12 at 8:48amQuote:
Gotcha. The way it was written, it looked like you were alluding to his ownership of that site.post #30072 of 787196/1/12 at 9:01amQuote:Originally Posted by Citan1145
Happy friday everyone. Had this jacket altered, not sure if I am going to keep or not(still feels too narrow in waist despite being let out all the way. Not sure if it is the cut of the jacket or the previous owner having it slimmed. Could also be product of shirt not tucking in right...). On the fence. New tie courtesy of BB.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
It doesn't look too tight at the waist to me. It's very fitted, but not actually pulling.
Now, I may be completely barking up the wrong tree, but I do think your jackets occasionally give off the appearance of being too tight because you favour quite an open front to your jackets and you have quite broad hips compared to your waist. If it was more closed, it would appear less waisted relative to your hips and perhaps more proportionate. Related to this, slightly more jacket length would also distract attention from the waist. I'm perfectly aware that longer, more closed jackets are viewed as stodgy and don't get much praise on SF, but if they're cut nicely and fit well, I think they look very smart. I wonder what effect they'd have on you in terms of proportions. I also have wide hips relative to my waist (though you do have the benefit of broader shoulders than me, proportionately) and if you notice, my bespoke jackets tend to be relatively more closed and longer than SF-doctrine would dictate. Here's an old snap which gives you an idea of what I mean, if you look at the side I'm not distorting by having a hand in the pocket.
Anyway, might be worth experimenting around with next time you're shopping. The trouble with more closed and longer jackets, however, is that unless they fit nicely, they will look boxy and dull (it's actually analogous to the whole pleat issue that's been discussed to death: they look just fine when they fit right but have less tolerance for poor fit. DBs are yet another example of this high elasticity of appearance vs precision of fit).
I also think the sleeves may be too narrow for you, going by all the funky bunching/creasing.post #30073 of 787196/1/12 at 9:03amCan anyone with more knowledge of tailoring tell me what leads a jacket to open up too much below the buttoning point? I guess a narrow waist could do that but I notice it on a few of my jackets even if they are not tight in the waist. I am guessing maybe hips and seat may have something to do with it, posture too. Thanks in advance.
Edit: HF, I just noticed your comment. I agree. The quarters seem to be the issue here. For reference, I think these are my two best fitting jackets in regards to quarters and I agree, they are slimming. Can this be done with jackets that are off the rack? I.e. can quarters be "slightly" closed by a tailor but not so closed they have that "boxy" look. I think I need a happy medium.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)post #30074 of 787196/1/12 at 9:13amQuote:Originally Posted by Citan1145
Can anyone with more knowledge of tailoring tell me what leads a jacket to open up too much below the buttoning point? I guess a narrow waist could do that but I notice it on a few of my jackets even if they are not tight in the waist. I am guessing maybe hips and seat may have something to do with it, posture too. Thanks in advance.
In the case of this jacket, I think it's simply been cut that way, as it doesn't look like it's swinging open on the hinge of the button as a result of being too tight at the waist. However, I am very very far from knowing much about tailoring so will let someone more knowledgeable reply! :)Quote:Can this be done with jackets that are off the rack? I.e. can quarters be "slightly" closed by a tailor but not so closed they have that "boxy" look. I think I need a happy medium.
I can't see how a tailor could create more closed fronts; where would the extra material come from? Opening them up, I suppose so. I never actually asked a tailor either way though. Maybe Despos or a tailor can weigh in here as I have no idea.post #30075 of 787196/1/12 at 9:14amCitan: I think you should be more worried about what is going on with your shirt behind your tie knot, did you do your top button. Your jacket looks fine except that the sleeves are too long with no shirt cuff showing, and of course you are missing your pocket square as usual.
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