HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part III



SpooPoker said:

Acrid, iloled

Thanks - yes - carminas via the Armoury, tie is Tom Ford.

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i agree with the tie and shoe comments up till now, both are beautiful - i dislike the suit (although i think it fits well), but i suppose it's not meant to be liked by all, eh?



Louis XIV said:

Would love to see a critique on Spoos new suit from the oldschoolers.

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Is that a suit? I thought it was spraypaint. Anyway, it looks to me like it is trying to run away from him in back. Manton has a technical term for that, but I don't.



SpooPoker said:

Right, so - brand new suit, brand new cut, and a brand new tailor. Better?
First pic below is most accurate colors.

Spoiler

note - I see that small pulling by the button, but I think that's just the photo/pose as that's not there when I'm robot posing.

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im not gonna comment in fit simply because i dont know enough to do so. as far as the outfit goes however, i will comment.

that suit is exactly my kinda suit, i love it and id wear it myself no question. i like the tie also, and it goes ok with the suit but not great imo. the shoes are absolutely beautiful, but like acrid said i wouldnt pair them with that suit. maybe a darker brown more serious shoe. like the ones i want to buy. either way, keep on keepin on.

Spoo, the suit looks well fitting, I especially think the shoulders look nice. It does look like it could've benefitted from a bit more room in the chest (a more crooked vs straight cut maybe), as the lapels are still bowing out a bit. Personally I'm not a fan of self stripey materials, but the tie and shoes are great.



iammatt said:

it looks to me like it is trying to run away from him in back. Manton has a technical term for that, but I don't.

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Im not sure I understand what that means. Running away?

in stitches said:

like acrid said i wouldnt pair them with that suit. maybe a darker brown more serious shoe.

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The pic looks a little light, they are a true chocolate brown. And they are very srs.

Kaplan said:

Spoo, the suit looks well fitting, I especially think the shoulders look nice. It does look like it could've benefitted from a bit more room in the chest (a more crooked vs straight cut maybe), as the lapels are still bowing out a bit. Personally I'm not a fan of self stripey materials, but the tie and shoes are great.

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Thanks, I was trying to address the bowing lapels and pulling/positioning at the waist. Guess it needs another tweak - one lapel is bowing a litttttle bit, but nothing like before.

Well, this is the same issue I see with most of your stuff. It does not look "settled" but rather like it is riding up in front. I see it and I want to grab the bottom front and tug them down. Looks like the balance needs to be adjusted forward: drop the fronts at least and maybe raise the back but I don't know about the latter.

I am assuming that this is a shape/posture issue with you as most of what you wear seems to show it to my eye. It really can't be addressed with RTW.

I have a similar problem in that every RTW coat I could possibly buy or try on will have a short back balance, RTW block patterns are just not designed in a way that works for me in that respect. But because it's the back it's less noticable than if it were the front.



Manton said:

Well, this is the same issue I see with most of your stuff. It does not look "settled" but rather like it is riding up in front. I see it and I want to grab the bottom front and tug them down. Looks like the balance needs to be adjusted forward: drop the fronts at least and maybe raise the back but I don't know about the latter.

I am assuming that this is a shape/posture issue with you as most of what you wear seems to show it to my eye. It really can't be addressed with RTW.

I have a similar problem in that every RTW coat I could possibly buy or try on will have a short back balance, RTW block patterns are just not designed in a way that works for me in that respect. But because it's the back it's less noticable than if it were the front.

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Interesting. I never considered that as a cause before. I certainly appreciate you taking the time to provide a critique.

^^

how much of that (at least in this pic) may be the high gorge/pic angle, pic seems to have been taken from a low angle. This outfit is not to my taste but I don't see anything wrong with it. The shoes and tie are very good and compliment the suit. I love the shirt collar. I would never wear the suit in that pattern or in that type of fit but I don't see this and think that its a horrible fit. Collar seems to hug the neck and the pinstripes on the fronts seems to be good, parallel to the ground. I think if Spoo wants to get to the "next level" he should take into consideratuion the technical advice you guys give him but an outfit like this, he's better dressed than most and better dressed than some of the bespoke you see here. Sometimes I think his fits are not liked but guys like us because it looks too tight but that is what he is going for in the same way that some Savirle Row guys and RTW brands do.



SpooPoker said:

The pic looks a little light, they are a true chocolate brown. And they are very srs.

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im sure that i am wrong, and it could be just the bad color representation, and im sorry to beat this already very dead horse even further, but i feel suede is just not the way to go with that suit. just my opinion thats all.

I agree that it appears to be on the neck well, although from the close-up there apears to be a roll in the top collar, which AFAIK can only be fixed by taking the collar apart, resizing the top and re-attaching. Anyway, at least for my taste, dropping the fronts from the shoulder seams and leaving the collar alone would make the suit's cut look a lot better.

I go back to that VictorTheRussian coat, which looks very good on precisely the issue I am talking about.

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freedom_fries said:

i would get rid of the tie immediately - actually throw the socks out while you're at it. the shirt and suit together are too much, even with a muted tie. perhaps try a cream-coloured shirt and dark, solid tie? like holdfast, i'm not feeling the suit fabric, but neither do i hate it and so i don't think you need to ditch it.

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While I respect your view, I am not trying to dress conservative business dress, and this is where I part company with some of the more conservative advice on the forum. First of, though, yes, sure the tie. It's unusual for me in that it is whimsical. I don't normally do whimsy but this one makes sense and is quietly amusing in the context in which I am wearing it (a seminar about security and the automation of war). And sorry, but I have no problem with coloured socks that pick up an aspect of the colour of the tie, for example, without matching. The shirt - well, it's pretty normal in the British traditional male dress aesthetics with which I grew up to put a bold grid pattern against a more sobre pinstripe or other subtly-striped suit, and the colour of the grid also picks up the minor colour in the suit, again without being matchy. I still think that aspect works. Unfortunately that is all but invisible due to the poor quality of the photo. As I said, it was really only the cut of the suit I was interested in today.

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Manton said:

I agree that it appears to be on the neck well, although from the close-up there apears to be a roll in the top collar, which AFAIK can only be fixed by taking the collar apart, resizing the top and re-attaching. Anyway, at least for my taste, dropping the fronts from the shoulder seams and leaving the collar alone would make the suit's cut look a lot better.

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I love the colour and the material (and indeed the overall look) but I also noticed the roll in the top collar. However I am rather less knowledgeable in terms of the practice of tailoring, so I can't add anything more on what to do about it.



in stitches said:

im sure that i am wrong, and it could be just the bad color representation, and im sorry to beat this already very dead horse even further, but i feel suede is just not the way to go with that suit. just my opinion thats all.

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you are 100% correct, you are wrong.

IST66 said:

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It might only be the picture quality, but irrespective of whether people like the overall look (and I think you do pull it off), I don't think the solid blue shirt works here.