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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part III - Page 1605  

post #24061 of 78723
Quote:
Originally Posted by Holdfast View Post



Funnily enough, I did think about using a black tie instead and got to the stage of comparing how a black satin compared to a black grenadine against the outfit (the grenadine was better, just; a knit would have been better still). The thing is - call it a pet theory or perhaps even a bete noire - I really don't appreciate the effect of a really dark solid tie if both the shirt and suit are very pattern-intensive. I much prefer the visual effect of a patterned tie with this (esp. an abstract-ish tie as suit and shirt patterns tend to be geometrically based, as here). I suspect I may well be in a minority of one on this, and that's fair enough (and why I put in the line about the tie being divisive in the look) but I've thought about it a fair bit and come to the conclusion that I just prefer the way a patterned tie looks against a boldly patterned shirt/suit combo, rather than trying to hold everything down with a solid dark tie. Perhaps there's more of the 70s in me than I realised... colgate.gif

Thanks for the constructive & thoughtful feedback though, to both of you. It's sensible & good advice, I suspect, even if I'm wilful enough to disagree. If the suit was a more subdued grey plaid (i.e. a less prominent check) I would almost certainly have gone the solid black route, in fact.

That's interesting, Holdfast. So is it fair to say that you think that a solid black tie with that suit and shirt would give the suit-shirt combo too much punch? I do agree that it would put all the emphasis on suit and shirt, as it were. Maybe we have two opposite goals here? I'm looking for harmony by trying to bring the ensemble close to unity, and you're looking for it by seeking a coordinated diversity? (I'm trying not to load the language in favor of either option.)
post #24062 of 78723
P. S. I say this ^ as a fan of the sort of 1970s style presented in many of these images from the Cutter and Tailor.
post #24063 of 78723
Quote:
Originally Posted by ColdEyedPugilist View Post

I think the problem is that the tie is at once fuzzy and shiny, which clashes with the sheen of the suit; not sure how else to put it. Think I'll wait for my incoming navy casual suit, which has more texture and patch pockets.

P.S. Great casual suit you have there!


Thanks! Yep, I think your new tie will work great with a more textured casual suit, as you have on the way.
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Testudo_Aubreii View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Holdfast View Post



Funnily enough, I did think about using a black tie instead and got to the stage of comparing how a black satin compared to a black grenadine against the outfit (the grenadine was better, just; a knit would have been better still). The thing is - call it a pet theory or perhaps even a bete noire - I really don't appreciate the effect of a really dark solid tie if both the shirt and suit are very pattern-intensive. I much prefer the visual effect of a patterned tie with this (esp. an abstract-ish tie as suit and shirt patterns tend to be geometrically based, as here). I suspect I may well be in a minority of one on this, and that's fair enough (and why I put in the line about the tie being divisive in the look) but I've thought about it a fair bit and come to the conclusion that I just prefer the way a patterned tie looks against a boldly patterned shirt/suit combo, rather than trying to hold everything down with a solid dark tie. Perhaps there's more of the 70s in me than I realised... colgate.gif

Thanks for the constructive & thoughtful feedback though, to both of you. It's sensible & good advice, I suspect, even if I'm wilful enough to disagree. If the suit was a more subdued grey plaid (i.e. a less prominent check) I would almost certainly have gone the solid black route, in fact.

That's interesting, Holdfast. So is it fair to say that you think that a solid black tie with that suit and shirt would give the suit-shirt combo too much punch? I do agree that it would put all the emphasis on suit and shirt, as it were. Maybe we have two opposite goals here? I'm looking for harmony by trying to bring the ensemble close to unity, and you're looking for it by seeking a coordinated diversity? (I'm trying not to load the language in favor of either option.)


Yes, that's pretty much it, I think. For me, a solid black tie makes the suit (and to some extent the shirt too) such an overwhelming focus that it becomes distracting. The hyper-sedate/formal black tie leaves me with a relative visual "hole" in the centre of the look where the tie is. That's not just due to the dark colour, but also to its solid nature. Incidentally, that's why when initially comparing black ties, I preferred the grenadine to the satin and would have preferred a knit to either. The stronger the tie's texture, the more it stole some visual interest away from the suit, thus partially balancing it. So yes, I think you're right to explain my thinking in that way.

 

Now that you've started on this train of thought, it makes me wonder whether this way of viewing things is correlated with more abstract/conceptual thinking processes. For instance, while I'm a fairly precise & logical person, I'm also much more of a "synthesiser" than I am a "deconstructor". A heuristics person rather than an algorithmic one; I prefer dealing with overall pattern-recognition rather than parsing the nitty-gritty of a problem. Obviously neither method is better than the other; both perspectives are needed to fully understand something I think.

 

I'm not aware of studies in the literature correlating peoples' preferred aesthetic style with their preferred mode of operational thinking. It would be an interesting study. Anyway, I ramble... which means it's time for me to shut up and let people post pics instead. :)

post #24064 of 78723
Thoughts on the fit of this suit? Should I shorten the length of the jacket? I realized after I put away the suit that the full picture with shoulders is too dark...

Photobucket

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post #24065 of 78723
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieselman89 View Post

Thoughts on the fit of this suit? Should I shorten the length of the jacket? I realized after I put away the suit that the full picture with shoulders is too dark...


Do not shorten the jacket.

post #24066 of 78723
Quote:
Originally Posted by W.R. View Post



Do not shorten the jacket.

+1. If anything it could be a little longer IMHO.
post #24067 of 78723
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

+1. If anything it could be a little longer IMHO.

I thought it twas long, def. not too short for my taste.
post #24068 of 78723
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieselman89 View Post

I thought it twas long, def. not too short for my taste.

It's hard to tell exactly what the problem is, but in my opinion there's something not right between the buttoning point of your jacket, the length of your jacket, and the rise of your trousers. This results in a lot of shirt showing below the button of the jacket and, to my eye, a somewhat awkward silhouette. I'm not a tailor nor enough of an expert to say what it is exactly that's off by these pictures, but certainly the jacket is not too long.
post #24069 of 78723
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

It's hard to tell exactly what the problem is, but in my opinion there's something not right between the buttoning point of your jacket, the length of your jacket, and the rise of your trousers. This results in a lot of shirt showing below the button of the jacket and, to my eye, a somewhat awkward silhouette. I'm not a tailor nor enough of an expert to say what it is exactly that's off by these pictures, but certainly the jacket is not too long.

I like to wear my pants very high. It's weird but oh well. This probably explains why the belt is so close to the button.
post #24070 of 78723
Quote:
Originally Posted by UncleCozy View Post

467
Chester Barrie
RLPL
T&A
E. Marinella
Omega
/ not visible
Viccel OTC
C&J Westfields for Barney's NY
All in all, the suit is a bit too long all around and the chalkstripes are nearly identical (shirt v suit). Will be up for sale since I'm dropping in weight (44 going on a muscular 40)

Tie is unbelievable. Where is that from?
post #24071 of 78723
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieselman89 View Post

I like to wear my pants very high. It's weird but oh well. This probably explains why the belt is so close to the button.

I was actually suggesting the opposite, that the pants are low - the belt seems far away from the button to me. Compare, for example, with these photos, from ASuitableWardrobe:

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-sOleY9Ias1s/TYYWGK5Vi2I/AAAAAAAAGtc/myHYewv0EoY/s1600/AC+mill+suit.png

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Wl5FK3ZU13I/T0-MwlleUBI/AAAAAAAAIG0/c0z5B7cm9rQ/s1600/Peter%2Bwith%2BGraham.jpg
post #24072 of 78723

Wore this:...

 

cXG6J.jpg

 

Odlob.jpg

 

...met her:

 

Dhhbc.jpg

 

post #24073 of 78723
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

I was actually suggesting the opposite, that the pants are low - the belt seems far away from the button to me. Compare, for example, with these photos, from ASuitableWardrobe:
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-sOleY9Ias1s/TYYWGK5Vi2I/AAAAAAAAGtc/myHYewv0EoY/s1600/AC+mill+suit.png
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Wl5FK3ZU13I/T0-MwlleUBI/AAAAAAAAIG0/c0z5B7cm9rQ/s1600/Peter%2Bwith%2BGraham.jpg

I guess it's all personal preference. I kind of understand what your saying, but at the same time I do not. What do you think of the overall fit of the suit? I just spent a hefty amount of money getting it tailored. Does the suit look like it fits well?
post #24074 of 78723
Quote:
Originally Posted by Holdfast View Post



Thanks! Yep, I think your new tie will work great with a more textured casual suit, as you have on the way.

 


Yes, that's pretty much it, I think. For me, a solid black tie makes the suit (and to some extent the shirt too) such an overwhelming focus that it becomes distracting. The hyper-sedate/formal black tie leaves me with a relative visual "hole" in the centre of the look where the tie is. That's not just due to the dark colour, but also to its solid nature. Incidentally, that's why when initially comparing black ties, I preferred the grenadine to the satin and would have preferred a knit to either. The stronger the tie's texture, the more it stole some visual interest away from the suit, thus partially balancing it. So yes, I think you're right to explain my thinking in that way.

Now that you've started on this train of thought, it makes me wonder whether this way of viewing things is correlated with more abstract/conceptual thinking processes. For instance, while I'm a fairly precise & logical person, I'm also much more of a "synthesiser" than I am a "deconstructor". A heuristics person rather than an algorithmic one; I prefer dealing with overall pattern-recognition rather than parsing the nitty-gritty of a problem. Obviously neither method is better than the other; both perspectives are needed to fully understand something I think.

I'm not aware of studies in the literature correlating peoples' preferred aesthetic style with their preferred mode of operational thinking. It would be an interesting study. Anyway, I ramble... which means it's time for me to shut up and let people post pics instead. smile.gif

I would not wear a black satin tie either, but for different (I think) reasons.

To me, the sheen of a satin tie would fight the boldly patterned suit for attention; whereas grenadine, a knit or even wool challis, each fabric being more muted, more matte in tone (but not fuzzy), would allow the suit to take centrestage. This is similar to the issue I had with yesterday's experiment; I took off the Vanda and went back to the Hober Challis (macclesfield pattern on midnight blue ground) eventually because the matte tone of the Challis tie counterbalanced the sheen of the mid-blue sharkskin suit.

It's a tricky balancing act though; if I had gone with a cashmere tie, for example, the fabric would have been too fuzzy to produce the same effect.
post #24075 of 78723
Quote:
Originally Posted by Holdfast View Post


Would like to see this in better lighting; I like the colours and style quite a bit, esp. the flouncy & colourful choice of square.

I only have a lowly mobile phone to shoot with, but I might get one more use out of it during easter, but it'll probably be too warm to wear it.
Actually, you are quite the inspiration to me, especially your DB waistcoats and the crazy E&R one. Dandy-esque, british, a joie de vivre.. My first SR commission (4.5 years in the future or so, when I pass the bar) will definitely be for a 3P with a DB-waistcoat.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tailor Dan View Post

Think this looks outstanding. Doesn't look long to me but it's your suit. If you're set on selling how tall are you and can you let me know when you are selling it. Just the three piece?
http://gentlemansgent.blogspot.com/

Thanks, I have to bring up the arms by an 1-1.5" and cuff the pants, but it's flanell and when next winter hits I'll probably be more of a 40R/L. I'm 6'1, coat (suit is a 44L) is a bit on the long side but I like them that way. I'll be moving away a lot of stuff eventually, but I'll keep them until I'm down 10-15kgs or so (ie summer). I'll drop a PM when I do.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieselman89 View Post

Tie is unbelievable. Where is that from?

Turnbull & Asser for Neiman Marcus, lilac/lavenderish
60/40 Silk/Linen, ties a lovely knot and has a unique feel to it.
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