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Pls critique my 1st bespoke suit - Page 2

post #16 of 58
very good.
I think the jacket is just a tiny bit tight in the waist and hip 1" total to let out
next go round they could reduce point to point 1/4" each side
post #17 of 58
Other than some wrinkling, it looks good. Specifically in the waist.
post #18 of 58
Suit looks above average. Could use more chest to give a V line to the opening between the lapels rather than the U shape it has. This is common to Asian tailors as Asian men have very different chest shapes. It has more to do with the canvass than the cutting of the cloth.
You're low on the right shoulder but not just at the tip of your shoulder but at the neck as well. That is why the right side of the collar falls away from your neck more than the left side.
Addressing these two issues would bring a more refined look to the fit of the jacket
post #19 of 58
LOVE this fabric. Great choice. Suit looks great and screams "money" to me. I'm not crazy about such a wide lapel, but I'm not far off from fashion-suit land so don't listen to me on that front.

Great job!
post #20 of 58
Quote:
Originally Posted by nilfire77 View Post

Your tailor do collar very poor,
it bulges out.
Many tailor make poor collar,
even big names.
post #21 of 58
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post
Suit looks above average. Could use more chest to give a V line to the opening between the lapels rather than the U shape it has. This is common to Asian tailors as Asian men have very different chest shapes. It has more to do with the canvass than the cutting of the cloth.
You're low on the right shoulder but not just at the tip of your shoulder but at the neck as well. That is why the right side of the collar falls away from your neck more than the left side.
Addressing these two issues would bring a more refined look to the fit of the jacket

You have now gotten me compulsively examining my chest shape as an Asian man.

Can you elaborate more on this? I also use Iris -- but I might have a more typical "white" guy build as I'm pretty large and athletically built.
post #22 of 58
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred G. Unn View Post
Well are they or aren't they? They look a bit wide and from the back there is fabric bunching up under both armpits. The fabric bunching could be from the cut there, could be the jacket needs steamed, or could be shoulders are too wide. My hunch is that if the shoulders were slightly narrower the fabric bunching would be gone.

The "fabric bunching" is intentional - it's intended to leave room to move your arms.

Quote:
Originally Posted by yeeth View Post
wow.
hmmm is it just me or is there something a little off about your left (right in the pic) shoulder? doesnt look as straight as the other side...

Everyone has one lower shoulder.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shirtmaven View Post
very good.
I think the jacket is just a tiny bit tight in the waist and hip 1" total to let out
next go round they could reduce point to point 1/4" each side

You forgot about prominent calves... I think that the pants should be cut with more space at the back to account for the fact that you lock your knees when standing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post
Suit looks above average. Could use more chest to give a V line to the opening between the lapels rather than the U shape it has. This is common to Asian tailors as Asian men have very different chest shapes. It has more to do with the canvass than the cutting of the cloth.
You're low on the right shoulder but not just at the tip of your shoulder but at the neck as well. That is why the right side of the collar falls away from your neck more than the left side.
Addressing these two issues would bring a more refined look to the fit of the jacket

Chris-

Are you talking about a chest dart to address a forward chest?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lightbringer View Post
You have now gotten me compulsively examining my chest shape as an Asian man.

Can you elaborate more on this? I also use Iris -- but I might have a more typical "white" guy build as I'm pretty large and athletically built.

Let's see what Chris says about a forward chest. And Mina won't like you running around behind her back
post #23 of 58
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post
Suit looks above average. Could use more chest to give a V line to the opening between the lapels rather than the U shape it has. This is common to Asian tailors as Asian men have very different chest shapes.

Could you please explain this further? Are you saying that Asian men's different chest shapes mean a U shape is better?

To OP: How many fittings did you go for and how long was the entire process?Looks not bad at all. I have an odd jacket in the works at Iris, we'll see how that turns out.
post #24 of 58
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Son Of Saphir View Post
Your tailor do collar very poor,
it bulges out.
Many tailor make poor collar,
even big names.

Thanks for the comments. Do u have any pictorial example of how a perfect collar looks like? Or at least near perfect? Thanks again!
post #25 of 58
Quote:
Originally Posted by nilfire77 View Post
Thanks for the comments. Do u have any pictorial example of how a perfect collar looks like? Or at least near perfect? Thanks again!

Not many tailor can do a proper collar,
but me try and find a picture in next couple of days.
post #26 of 58
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dbc View Post
Could you please explain this further? Are you saying that Asian men's different chest shapes mean a U shape is better?

To OP: How many fittings did you go for and how long was the entire process?Looks not bad at all. I have an odd jacket in the works at Iris, we'll see how that turns out.

I had a total of 5 fittings over a span of nearly 2 months. It was a busy period for Nani and co then.
post #27 of 58
Quote:
Originally Posted by nilfire77 View Post
I had a total of 5 fittings over a span of nearly 2 months. It was a busy period for Nani and co then.

Did the 5 fittings include measurements?

I assume you live in Singapore and picked in up recently?
post #28 of 58
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dbc View Post
Did the 5 fittings include measurements?

I assume you live in Singapore and picked in up recently?

That's a yes for both questions.
post #29 of 58
Quote:
Originally Posted by alliswell View Post
The "fabric bunching" is intentional - it's intended to leave room to move your arms.



Everyone has one lower shoulder.



You forgot about prominent calves... I think that the pants should be cut with more space at the back to account for the fact that you lock your knees when standing.



Chris-

Are you talking about a chest dart to address a forward chest?



Let's see what Chris says about a forward chest. And Mina won't like you running around behind her back

Were you one of the gents I met at Mina's last NYC trip or did you figure out my infidelity through post stalking?

Does this mean I'm a bad person for imagining parallel LH, NSM, Chan, and Iris Tailor commissions?
post #30 of 58
That's where I know you from.
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